Feels like handbrake is on! FL1 1998 1.8

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John_l_k

Member
Posts
32
Hi again everyone.
The last time I was here I was seeking help for what was my niece's car.

Prior to my niece's ownership, it was my mother's car. It's been in the family now for getting on 20 years.

Anyway, the ownership has gone full circle, and is now my "pride and joy".
Or at least, that is the plan.

I have a long list of jobs to do to get it back to good health, and I've started by carrying out a service, and cleaning out the Idle valve which seems to have got her running nice again.

The MOT a couple of months ago picked up an advisory: "O/S/R service brake binding, but not excessively. "
Probably not surprising since she's been sat around since the start of the year, waiting for me to pick up my spanners.
So yesterday my job was to make sure the wheels span freely.
After cleaning the drums, and adjusting the handbrake, and with the rear wheels spinning freely, I wrapped up the job and called it done.

Today though I'm wondering if there's another issue.
When I drove off my driveway onto the road, just so I could have the car facing the other way for the next job, it didn't want to freewheel at all.
As soon as I pushed in the clutch the car slowed down for itself, just like the brakes had been applied.

I understand there would be some kind of drag because it's a 4 wheel drive, but should it slow down so fast?

The rear wheels were off the ground and running freely yesterday when setting the parking brake, but should I do the same for the front wheels, ie jack up off the ground and make sure they are free?

Or could it be something else?

I can do a few simple mechanics, and I have a few tools, but I am still learning every day about this car.

Any hints or suggestions as to what to check would be welcome.
 
Sorry, I thought I had seen this before, and now I've just re stumbled across the sticky:

Tests new Freelander 1 owners should do on their car​


I need to test the viscous coupling then.
 
VCU is a good first check.

Although a cheaper check though harder check, I would prefer to do is the auto-adjuster on the drums at the back. the spring that holds them in the right place and allows them to work without adjusting to the max each time stretches and causing the shoes to rub on the drums.

Beware this test will result in failure of this part if it is the issue. You will be unable to safely drive the car.

Park on a hill.
Pull the handbrake up as high as is reasonable, you do not need to fight it.
While the handbrake is as high as you can get it press the brake pedal with some good force, again no need to fight it.
Go into neutral
Release the Footbrake
Release the handbrake
Do you roll? Try to move forwards and backwards does the car stick or feel like the brakes are applied?

EDIT: This was the exact same issue I had on my 00' 1.8, the above is how I could test if my repair worked.

They are about £30 to replace in the UK (Without Labour obviously)
My picture below shows where the springs stretch;

1747237171318.png


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PAIR REAR BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTERS KIT FITS: LANDROVER FREELANDER 1998-2006 BBA209B | eBay UK

Brake Adjusters. Caliper Rebuild / Repair Kits. These are Bremtech premium quality brake adjusters. - Bremtech premium quality brake adjusters. Brake Caliper Slider Pins. Brake Pad Fitting Kits. Brake Bleed Nipples.
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Last edited:
Thanks for that info.

While I was in the drums yesterday I did manage to release that mechanism while having the clean up. I'm now wondering if I've messed something up, although the wheels were free running when it all went back together.

Give me a day or two and I'll report back after the test you suggest, although I may have to settle for a couple of ramps on my driveway as the car isn't road legal yet, and no hills around here.

I'll also double check that my brakes are working properly, and I'll lift the front and check the front wheels are free spinning too.

I do have a feeling it's the vcu though, especially as I was out on the road tight cornering to turn the car around.
 
Mine only happened when I also removed it replacing the drum brakes, it was not obvious until after I test drove the car and the nearside rear was smoking and my brand new shiny drum was Yellow!

When manually adjusted the wheel spin freely until driven and the brakes are actually used at which point mine became very hard to turn, one would spin, the other would not, it would spin... not freely.

I should also add, if your car is in neutral the rear axle will(should) spin freely regardless of the VCU health, I learnt this the hard way after trying to test the VCU with the OWUT (One wheel up test) which should be done in gear
 
xDParis64 said:
I should also add, if your car is in neutral the rear axle will(should) spin freely regardless of the VCU health, I learnt this the hard way after trying to test the VCU with the OWUT (One wheel up test) which should be done in gear
Click to expand...
This is true, but it won't be 'freely' because it will also need to turn all the props, 2 diffs and another wheel. So it won't be like spinning the wheel on a 'normal' car, but it will turn quite freely.
 
John_l_k said:
Hi again everyone.
The last time I was here I was seeking help for what was my niece's car.

Prior to my niece's ownership, it was my mother's car. It's been in the family now for getting on 20 years.

Anyway, the ownership has gone full circle, and is now my "pride and joy".
Or at least, that is the plan.

I have a long list of jobs to do to get it back to good health, and I've started by carrying out a service, and cleaning out the Idle valve which seems to have got her running nice again.

The MOT a couple of months ago picked up an advisory: "O/S/R service brake binding, but not excessively. "
Probably not surprising since she's been sat around since the start of the year, waiting for me to pick up my spanners.
So yesterday my job was to make sure the wheels span freely.
After cleaning the drums, and adjusting the handbrake, and with the rear wheels spinning freely, I wrapped up the job and called it done.

Today though I'm wondering if there's another issue.
When I drove off my driveway onto the road, just so I could have the car facing the other way for the next job, it didn't want to freewheel at all.
As soon as I pushed in the clutch the car slowed down for itself, just like the brakes had been applied.

I understand there would be some kind of drag because it's a 4 wheel drive, but should it slow down so fast?

The rear wheels were off the ground and running freely yesterday when setting the parking brake, but should I do the same for the front wheels, ie jack up off the ground and make sure they are free?

Or could it be something else?

I can do a few simple mechanics, and I have a few tools, but I am still learning every day about this car.

Any hints or suggestions as to what to check would be welcome.
Click to expand...
The odds are that the VCU is knackered if its never been changed.

However, also make sure that the car has been maintained with the same make/model of tyres on all corners as a mismatched tyre has the affect of 'engaging' the VCU because the props will turn at different speeds - even at low car speeds.

Added to this of course, is to check that they are all pumped to the same pressure for exactly the same reason.

If there are problems with the tyres, this can/will damage the VCU needing it to be replaced - but sort the tyres before the VCU or else its a cycle that won't end!
 
These were my exact symptoms before I took off the prop. Resistance to roll and accelerating from standstill, especially in reverse. The VCU was done(still working on it).
 
Thanks for all your suggestions and sorry for the delay yesterday. I've got another vehicle issue, this time with my van dumping out power steering fluid.

Anyway.
I can report, all tyres are the same, make, model size etc.

In trying to freewheel about 6 feet on my driveway, in a straight line, it feels like the brakes are on.

Rear of the car jacked up and on axle stands, offside wheel turns kind of freely, nearside wheel locked up.

So, wheel off, but hub won't budge.
It won't turn, it won't come off.

Centre console off, and I see this:

IMG_20250516_102009.jpg



So, I've slackened handbrake cable right off, yet the hub still won't shift.

Behind the hub there are 2 rubber grommets, one round and one oval.
Is there a way of slackening the shoes from behind?
I did this to both sides when the drums were off 2 days ago, but I could see where to poke then.

When I try to remove the hub, it seems looser at the top, but really tight at the bottom. Is this an indication the handbrake is jammed on?

I really don't know what I've done, and what I need to do to put it right.
Any thoughts anyone?
 
John_l_k said:
Thanks for all your suggestions and sorry for the delay yesterday. I've got another vehicle issue, this time with my van dumping out power steering fluid.

Anyway.
I can report, all tyres are the same, make, model size etc.

In trying to freewheel about 6 feet on my driveway, in a straight line, it feels like the brakes are on.

Rear of the car jacked up and on axle stands, offside wheel turns kind of freely, nearside wheel locked up.

So, wheel off, but hub won't budge.
It won't turn, it won't come off.

Centre console off, and I see this:

View attachment 341174


So, I've slackened handbrake cable right off, yet the hub still won't shift.

Behind the hub there are 2 rubber grommets, one round and one oval.
Is there a way of slackening the shoes from behind?
I did this to both sides when the drums were off 2 days ago, but I could see where to poke then.

When I try to remove the hub, it seems looser at the top, but really tight at the bottom. Is this an indication the handbrake is jammed on?

I really don't know what I've done, and what I need to do to put it right.
Any thoughts anyone?
Click to expand...
Not sure if mine looked like that at the handbrake, maybe there is something else going on here, but from the sounds of it, I am 99% sure that issue lays with the adjuster, with a flashlight and flathead screwdriver you can slacken the tension yes through one of those grommets, but in my opinion it was much easier to blowtorch the drum and then use a prybar + hammer. (Alternatively, thought I know you said you don't have much space, I drove the car to warm the drum up then it popped off with ease, keep those fingers safe it's HOT!!!)

Though with what you are saying it sounds like the adjuster is kaput or a spring is bent / stretched somewhere. If you haven't already I'd recommend replacing the cylinders while you are there.
 
John_l_k said:
Hi again everyone.
The last time I was here I was seeking help for what was my niece's car.

Prior to my niece's ownership, it was my mother's car. It's been in the family now for getting on 20 years.

Anyway, the ownership has gone full circle, and is now my "pride and joy".
Or at least, that is the plan.

I have a long list of jobs to do to get it back to good health, and I've started by carrying out a service, and cleaning out the Idle valve which seems to have got her running nice again.

The MOT a couple of months ago picked up an advisory: "O/S/R service brake binding, but not excessively. "
Probably not surprising since she's been sat around since the start of the year, waiting for me to pick up my spanners.
So yesterday my job was to make sure the wheels span freely.
After cleaning the drums, and adjusting the handbrake, and with the rear wheels spinning freely, I wrapped up the job and called it done.

Today though I'm wondering if there's another issue.
When I drove off my driveway onto the road, just so I could have the car facing the other way for the next job, it didn't want to freewheel at all.
As soon as I pushed in the clutch the car slowed down for itself, just like the brakes had been applied.

I understand there would be some kind of drag because it's a 4 wheel drive, but should it slow down so fast?

The rear wheels were off the ground and running freely yesterday when setting the parking brake, but should I do the same for the front wheels, ie jack up off the ground and make sure they are free?

Or could it be something else?

I can do a few simple mechanics, and I have a few tools, but I am still learning every day about this car.

Any hints or suggestions as to what to check would be welcome.
Click to expand...
I can't see how the MOT place can tell a brake is binding slightly, as it's tested on a road test using a rather crude Taply brake tester.
 
Nodge68 said:
I can't see how the MOT place can tell a brake is binding slightly, as it's tested on a road test using a rather crude Taply brake tester.
Click to expand...
My place test it by putting the car on a slight incline and test how it rolls down the incline. Rather ancient method though!
 
I took the offside rear wheel and hub off to see where to poke the screwdriver, which has no done the trick.
Nearside drum is off.

So both sides have been released again, and the drums slip on and off quite easily.

I'm not going to mess around with taking the shoes out and going for a deep clean, so can someone confirm all looks well in there, apart from the dirt of course.
I just want to know for sure the adjusters are set right, and the handbrake has released as much as possible.

17474083928174585911999329782416.jpg
17474084154034914168096144986402.jpg
1747408432967902560051104094690.jpg



Then I put both drums on, and pump the foot brake 20 to 30 times, before adjusting the handbrake?
This could be the step I messed up on before. I may have done the handbrake first 🤔
 
All looks to be assembled correctly. As I've said I'd have concern for this spring:
1747409009131.png

I can't tell if it's damaged from here, but if you were able to adjust the handbrake and pump the footbrake without causing issues then I should imagine maybe it had been adjusted incorrectly, just make sure the HB holds the car still, the drum should slide on and off with minimal effort but shouldn't just slide freely, that would indicate it is too loose.

You can test if it works by pumping the brake with the drum on then trying to spin it.
 
Best I could do regarding pictures of that spring.
It looks well to my eye.
17474093497986737962883815747632.jpg
1747409443369373488814152741905.jpg


Going to try and reassemble now.
Wish me luck.

One thought I have had in all of this, at least the VCU concern has been forgotten 😊

Although I will do the test once this issue is over.
 
Spring looks good, if it wasn't being stretched / if the spring had no gaps between coils it would be an issue. But compared to my one, that looks fine.

Good Luck!
 
All back together, wheels spinning freely, foot brakes and handbrake work, and everything frees off when released.
All good, job done thank you.

I can only put it down to the order I did it last time that messed it up, or maybe not enough of a clean up inside the drum meaning things didn't release when requested.

Just tightened the wheel nuts and now broke the security key socket. Maybe that's for another thread.

I'm going to try the one wheel up test too right now.
 
After a crude OWUT using an extended breaker bar and a bucket of bricks, I was pleased to note it took around 25 seconds to rotate from 1.30 to 3.

The extended pole was accurate at 1.2m but the bucket of bricks weighed a little more than 6kg, and it all felt a bit ramshackle, especially as it was all cobbled together with tape and string, and a Flexi head breaker bar.

Anyway, joy has turned to sorrow now as I've just reread above and now see I should have had the car in gear 😕

I won't be retesting any time soon.
 
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