Wishbone bolt rusted in bush

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landymon

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26
Location
Monmouthshire
Trying to replace both wishbones.
One bolt is rusted in one of the wishbone bushes and cannot knock it out etc.
Heard to use a hacksaw blade to cut the bolt to remove the wishbone, any reason why a disc grinder with a thin metal cutting disc can't be used. being easier.
 
L320 RRS I would think based on the signature and the fact that it has the wishbones.

I did this job on the wife's D4 a couple of weeks ago. I'd heard that a recip saw was the best thing to use so I bought some decent blades and went at it. 3 blades in and the bolt was scratched! They are 10.1 grade bolts and they are HARD!

In the end I used a 1mm cutting disc but I couldn't really get access to to the bolt with my grinder so I had to cut the wishbone off which is tricky in itself around the front bolt as the driveshaft CV is right there too. However, when I did manage to get a grinder on the bolt, I found that I could get it part way in then turn the bolt, and with a new disc get a bit more of it each time. What actually happened was the heat from the grinding freed the alloy collar on the bush off the bolt enough to be able to turn it and then knock the bolts out.

I ended up cutting into all 4 bolts in the end but it was always heat that freed them off as I never actually cut right through a single one. I did snap one of them which I felt was quite the achievement! I ordered a Map gas torch after this so I have it for the rears when that job needs doing. A blow torch will of course present a whole different set of issues!
 
I didn't as managed without it but I have now added this to my "I wasn't f*****g asking!" drawer
IMG_4316.jpeg
 
Blob said:
L320 RRS I would think based on the signature and the fact that it has the wishbones.

I did this job on the wife's D4 a couple of weeks ago. I'd heard that a recip saw was the best thing to use so I bought some decent blades and went at it. 3 blades in and the bolt was scratched! They are 10.1 grade bolts and they are HARD!

In the end I used a 1mm cutting disc but I couldn't really get access to to the bolt with my grinder so I had to cut the wishbone off which is tricky in itself around the front bolt as the driveshaft CV is right there too. However, when I did manage to get a grinder on the bolt, I found that I could get it part way in then turn the bolt, and with a new disc get a bit more of it each time. What actually happened was the heat from the grinding freed the alloy collar on the bush off the bolt enough to be able to turn it and then knock the bolts out.

I ended up cutting into all 4 bolts in the end but it was always heat that freed them off as I never actually cut right through a single one. I did snap one of them which I felt was quite the achievement! I ordered a Map gas torch after this so I have it for the rears when that job needs doing. A blow torch will of course present a whole different set of issues!
Click to expand...
You want carbide teeth blades, they are the mutts nuts.
No matter what blade you use on the recip saw do not run it flat out as that kills the blades.
 
lynall said:
You want carbide teeth blades, they are the mutts nuts.
No matter what blade you use on the recip saw do not run it flat out as that kills the blades.
Click to expand...
My error then, I didn't buy carbide blades. They would have made the job much easier to be fair, the access is tricky with a grinder.
 
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