Military Land Rover Series 2.25L Petrol Engine

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Well Have I done the right thing here, Im absolutely hopeless when it comes to engines. bought this A1 Reconditioned Land Rover Series 2.25L Petrol Engine (mod-sales.com)
Everything except the Fan and dip stick seem good , thought the fan would be an easy fix untill I discovered that the pulley is damaged, Talking to a mate and he says I can put normal one back on and run 12 volt as this one is 24.
A few pics so yous can see what I have,
I have a few but first question is have I wasted my money ?
Second Should I leave it 24 volt, I know the Alternator needs changing but what else do I need to change to go 12 volt ?.
 

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The engine looks good but you wont know if youve wasted your money until you start it up. A normal 12 volt alternater is mounted lower down on a civvie engine so you might need a new mounting/adjusting bracket. How much did you pay for the engine.

Col
 
The engine looks good but you wont know if youve wasted your money until you start it up. A normal 12 volt alternater is mounted lower down on a civvie engine so you might need a new mounting/adjusting bracket. How much did you pay for the engine.

Col
Im sure the mounting for 12 volt alt is where this pulley arrowed is on pic, but I do have a spare one anyway. I paid the auction price, seen them go up to 2500 without damage though, so hoping it is good when I finally get to start it.
Need radiator and other bits but gonna get it sat on chassis this weekend.
From what Ive read I also need distributor,leads , plugs ect, this has all New 24 volt stuff, I suppose I could sell this lot for cash to buy my 12 volt bits.
 

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I think you will find the 24v stuff is worth quite a bit to sell on.
You have the other engine that should have all the bits you need.
Make sure and drain whatever preservation fluid they have put in and a bit of oil in the bores before trying to turn it over, by hand.
No reason to think it wont be a good engine:).

J
 
I think you will find the 24v stuff is worth quite a bit to sell on.
You have the other engine that should have all the bits you need.
Make sure and drain whatever preservation fluid they have put in and a bit of oil in the bores before trying to turn it over, by hand.
No reason to think it wont be a good engine:).

J
Thanks, actually I was short of the very excact bits I need from other engine, except dip stick tube so would have had to buy for that one anyway.
How do I get some oil in the bores?
 
Thanks, actually I was short of the very excact bits I need from other engine, except dip stick tube so would have had to buy for that one anyway.
How do I get some oil in the bores?

As e sed ^^^.
But you have bits from other engine to sell on too. Which will finance bits you need:). Even though your other engine is of no use to you, it maybe to somebody else.

J
 
As e sed ^^^.
But you have bits from other engine to sell on too. Which will finance bits you need:). Even though your other engine is of no use to you, it maybe to somebody else.

J
Thanks must get round to going to pick it up, its all in bits but like you say someone will be short of something
 
Half an egg cup full is plenty, turn it over by hand once you've done all four and pop the plugs back in.
Just before you're about to start it, spin it on the starter with the plugs out, coil disconnected, until the oil pressure light goes out, this will also blow any excess oil out through the spark plug holes so the plugs don't get contaminated.
 
Would imagine youll need a 12v sarter as well...
Was just thinking about that too, this is starting to get a bit of a nightmare now, and here was stupid me thinking I could drop it straight in as it is and away we go :oops:
So will I definatley need a 12 volt starter ? been looking at them and thought they were all the same partr number, but may be wrong on that.
 
You will get more secondhand (recon never used as yours is) than it will cost for a new 12v 1, I would think.
As I said earlier the 24v stuff will sell at a good price.

J
 
You will get more secondhand (recon never used as yours is) than it will cost for a new 12v 1, I would think.
As I said earlier the 24v stuff will sell at a good price.

J
Might advertise altogether as 24 volt kit, not sure what to ask though, dont want to ask to much then again dont want to let it go for next to nothing either.
 
Unless you have a specific need, i would leave the 24v stuff in place. It was quite popular years ago to swap to 12v, but 24v systems are better. Bulbs are easy to get from garages, truck stops etc. If its FFR then it's all fully waterproof
 
Unless you have a specific need, i would leave the 24v stuff in place. It was quite popular years ago to swap to 12v, but 24v systems are better. Bulbs are easy to get from garages, truck stops etc. If its FFR then it's all fully waterproof
Well thats what I was hoping to do, yes it is FFR but my rebuild is not Military just a Series 109. Is it possible to do it this way ? is it only bulbs I would have to change,
There is no wiring on the chassis at all yet gonna have to make some kind of loom up.
 
If you swap, you have to swap everything..
Bulbs, wipers, alternator, coil, indicators, fuel gauge etc the list goes on
My dad's lightweight is 24v FFR and never has any electrical issues.. apart from when he left the lights switched on :oops:
 
I think it is possible to have a split system where the engine remains on 24v and the rest is 12v. Would need two battery's and probably a split charge system.
 
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