Dipped beams not working

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

LEON_BARKER

Member
Posts
48
Location
Kent
Just wondering if anyone could give me some ideas as to why my dipped beams are not working.

The full beams and side lights are all functional but the dipped beams don't work when I turn the put them on. The switch itself seems to be working fine(tested with multimeter) and the relay seems to click when turned on. Both side dipped beams don't work.

Not sure about fuses/resistors/relays.

It's a 1988 landover 90!

Thanks all!

C
 
I'd be checking/cleaning fuses first then get that multi meter on the plug at the headlamp.
You may just have duff bulbs/sealed units.
 
Daft question......you checked the bulbs...? Often folks drive with one out not noticed, then when second one goes think they’ve both gone together...... but not you I’m sure!

Sounds much like the stalk switch - they do give up frequently. Might show contact under multimeter load, but give up on full whack.....maybe....?

Good luck, A
 
Lost all headlight function this week out of the blue - checked everything and it turned out to be a faulty indicator, horn, main beam stalk. Take the cowling off and disconnect the plug, find the live feeds and bypass the switch. If the lights return to full functioning order a new stalk, if not at least you can rule this out.
 
Lost all headlight function this week out of the blue - checked everything and it turned out to be a faulty indicator, horn, main beam stalk. Take the cowling off and disconnect the plug, find the live feeds and bypass the switch. If the lights return to full functioning order a new stalk, if not at least you can rule this out.
I had this as well, this would be the first thing I would be checking.
Is that full eam working when light switched on for full beam workin when you flash? if ti is only when you flash I would check the switch as the contacts melt in there in the same way as the stalk!
 
If it does turn out to be the stalk burnt out then get some relays fitted in the circuit.
You don't say what bulbs you have but if you've got upgraded ones the switch will suffer without relays.
I've fitted one for each headlamp rather than one for both incase it failed leaving me with no lights at all.
 
If you don't mind, could you explain more about the column switch as the high beams are controlled with the indicator lever seperate from the side/dipped switch?

What tests could I do to confirm that the switch is dead?

Thanks!!
C
 
I wouldn't be able to describe it really but in a nutshell power goes to the off-side-mainbeam switch then on to the dip- full- flash switch. All this goes through fuses and maybe a relay.
It's usually the dip-full- flash switch that fails.
Taking it off and closely looking at the little contacts will reveal the problem- melted and/or burnt.
A simple bulb test lamp and some head scratching will show where power goes into the switch and where it comes out, or not if the contact(s) arnt passing cos they are duff.
 
Circa £20 for a new one after a quick Google.
Have heard there are dodgy quality ones though.
Lucas around twice that.
 
Circa £20 for a new one after a quick Google.
Have heard there are dodgy quality ones though.
Lucas around twice that.
Get the Lucas, I is worth the extra money after I had to mess around replacing the new faulty one again.

The way the switch usually fails is the contacts melt into the plastic sinking down until they no longer make a connection. A quick easy and cheap temporary fix to get headlights back while you wait for the part is to put a blob of solder onto the contact which has sunk and then file it smooth.
 
Back
Top