Aaron's 90 rebuild (Round 2)

IamRobbie said:

Very nice mate!

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Cheers

Al2O3 said:

Now that's a weekends good progress!


I am building myself up to giving it a go. Too scared to use 2K though, so it will have to be cellulose. What do you think? I've heard cellulose paint is much better these days.

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Yep, Not a bad one actually

Good to hear it, Now I wont say don't be scared of 2k because the would be silly.
But get a 2k rated mask and you'll be fine.
Some of the people who reed these threads will know my thoughts on it. But in short it's not like you're doing it day in day out and you'll be fine.

I think you can get isocyanate free 2k now which could be a good option.
Off course you can get good results with cellulose. But it doesn't hold it's colour as well.

Personally just go 2k, I did my first respray with celly, Tried 2k on the next and wouldn't go back now

I got my bright orange 2k ready to paint mine! Can't wait to have a go lol

hey Aaron, great thread, I'm about to start rebuilding my 90, its going to be a long process but I'm not in any rush, my first job is to refurb the axels and paint them, I'm planning on striping them down completely and replacing all the seals/bearings etc and then paining it all up.
any tips for doing this job? also iv never painted before and I'm a bit unsure of what would be best to do, I'm not sure if my compressor would handle a spray gun. do you spray paint all your parts or do you hand paint took? any tips on painting?

cracking build mate ive been swapping between this and the red shed

IamRobbie said:

I got my bright orange 2k ready to paint mine! Can't wait to have a go lol

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Don't forget the pics when it's done
Give us a shout if you need any advice.

James_mac said:

hey Aaron, great thread, I'm about to start rebuilding my 90, its going to be a long process but I'm not in any rush, my first job is to refurb the axels and paint them, I'm planning on striping them down completely and replacing all the seals/bearings etc and then paining it all up.
any tips for doing this job? also iv never painted before and I'm a bit unsure of what would be best to do, I'm not sure if my compressor would handle a spray gun. do you spray paint all your parts or do you hand paint took? any tips on painting?

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Cheers
Paint, It's a massive subject to be honest, And everyone has there own ways of doing things.
Now I used rustoleum combi colour on the axle casings and any thing else painted black.
Seems a really good paint and a few others have used it on here after seeing the results I had and think it's good too.

The radius arms etc. were painted with 2k paint from a gun. I had some left form another respray I did. Seemed a good idea to try and use it up so not to waste it.
The reality is, Is that it's not hard wearing enough.
So the project I have just made a start on I'm using rustoleum combi colour on them as well.
Albeit a different colour to the black axles

Well that covers my opinion on the paint, Not sure exactly what other advice you're after regards the axles.
But fire away and I'll help if i can

shenton24 said:

cracking build mate ive been swapping between this and the red shed

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Cheers mate
Red shed's kind of on hold at the mo.
Not sure what to do with it.

aaronmorris said:

Paint, It's a massive subject to be honest, And everyone has there own ways of doing things.
Now I used rustoleum combi colour on the axle casings and any thing else painted black.
Seems a really good paint and a few others have used it on here after seeing the results I had and think it's good too.

The radius arms etc. were painted with 2k paint from a gun. I had some left form another respray I did. Seemed a good idea to try and use it up so not to waste it.
The reality is, Is that it's not hard wearing enough.
So the project I have just made a start on I'm using rustoleum combi colour on them as well.
Albeit a different colour to the black axles

Well that covers my opinion on the paint, Not sure exactly what other advice you're after regards the axles.
But fire away and I'll help if I can.

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Cheers mate, I'll have a look at this rustoleum and see what it's like, iv been looking at POR15 atm as iv heard good stuff about it.
When you did your axles what parts did you replace?


Incase your interested this is my plan...
I want to do a full nut and bolt rebuild on my 1996 90 CSW but as it's my daily drive I need to keep it on the road for the time being.
Today a bought myself a 1998 disco with 120k on the clock for £500 so my plan is to strip that down and sell what I can, then refurbish the axels, buy a full +2" suspension kit with castor correction arm and the lot and then drop a galv chassis onto it. Then I plan on refurbing the disco engine & gearbox and fitting them to the rolling chassis. Then buying a galvanised td5 bulkhead so I can fit a td5 style dash.
Once that is all done I'll swap the body and interior from my 90 onto the new rolling chassis and maybe give it a respray but my bodywork is pretty tidy tbh so I might just leave it as it is.
Well that's the plan anyway. I'm not really in a rush, it's proably going to take a year or two , I might make build thread on it but I'll proably wait until iv got the new chassis first.

Also, do you use any primer before the rustoleum or just slap it straight into the axle after it's been cleaned up?

James_mac said:

Cheers mate, I'll have a look at this rustoleum and see what it's like, iv been looking at POR15 atm as iv heard good stuff about it.
When you did your axles what parts did you replace?


Incase your interested this is my plan...
I want to do a full nut and bolt rebuild on my 1996 90 CSW but as it's my daily drive I need to keep it on the road for the time being.
Today a bought myself a 1998 disco with 120k on the clock for £500 so my plan is to strip that down and sell what I can, then refurbish the axels, buy a full +2" suspension kit with castor correction arm and the lot and then drop a galv chassis onto it. Then I plan on refurbing the disco engine & gearbox and fitting them to the rolling chassis. Then buying a galvanised td5 bulkhead so I can fit a td5 style dash.
Once that is all done I'll swap the body and interior from my 90 onto the new rolling chassis and maybe give it a respray but my bodywork is pretty tidy tbh so I might just leave it as it is.
Well that's the plan anyway. I'm not really in a rush, it's proably going to take a year or two , I might make build thread on it but I'll proably wait until iv got the new chassis first.

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Aye, POR 15 looks very good stuff, But far to expensive for me.
Rustoleum seems a good alternative to me.

That sounds like a good plan to me, Saves taking yours off the road for longer than needed.

As for what I replaced in the axles. Just what was needed.
If you've not got a budget as such then replace everything.
But for me it was replace what's needed.
Fit all new bolts, That way if anything does break or wear out then it's easy to replace.
Mine was, All gaskets and seals, One cv, brake pads, New swivel seals and retainers. Probably a few other bits that I can't remember.

Mine wasn't too bad, I've just started another build and I've bought exactly the same for that (bar the cv)
Yours could be better or worse, Something you wont really know until it's in bits.

James_mac said:

Also, do you use any primer before the rustoleum or just slap it straight into the axle after it's been cleaned up?

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Just slap it straight on.
You can use a primer before if you want, But I'm happy applying it direct.

Thanks for the info, I think I'll just rear what needed too, hopefully going to strip the disco down to a rolling chassis over the next week so I'll be able to see what condition everything is in.

Great thread anyway. Keep it up

aaronmorris said:

Now I used rustoleum combi colour on the axle casings and any thing else painted black.
Seems a really good paint and a few others have used it on here after seeing the results I had and think it's good too.

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Another vote for combi colour here, it seems pretty durable and sprays well once thinned down, I did all my cappings, axles etc with it. Aaron do you brush or spray it? I sprayed the cappings after red-oxide primer and found that it chips very easily but it has stuck on the axle very well with no primer and brush application.

Boris113 said:

Another vote for combi colour here, it seems pretty durable and sprays well once thinned down, I did all my cappings, axles etc with it. Aaron do you brush or spray it? I sprayed the cappings after red-oxide primer and found that it chips very easily but it has stuck on the axle very well with no primer and brush application.

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I think that's the quality of red oxide paint these days. I 've found that where I've got Hammerite over red oxide it is chipping, whereas Hammerite on its own seems much tougher. it was much better when I were a lad.

James_mac said:

Thanks for the info, I think I'll just rear what needed too, hopefully going to strip the disco down to a rolling chassis over the next week so I'll be able to see what condition everything is in.

Great thread anyway. Keep it up

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Cheers Been contemplating getting a complete disco myself for some bits for the current project.

Boris113 said:

Another vote for combi colour here, it seems pretty durable and sprays well once thinned down, I did all my cappings, axles etc with it. Aaron do you brush or spray it? I sprayed the cappings after red-oxide primer and found that it chips very easily but it has stuck on the axle very well with no primer and brush application.

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I've only ever brushed it on, I find it gets harder over time.
Even after a week I could mark it with my nail.
But can't damage it now.
Only paint I have ever sprayed is celly and 2k.
That's generally for the body work.
If I had more space I'd probably spray more stuff, But can't be arsed to get the compressor out and clear the garage out to paint stuff.

Got a few bits done over the last couple of days.
But more waiting for bits than anything.

First job, Fit the td5 gearbox crossmember.

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Thread sizes have caused me much headache.
This one I couldn't work out.

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But with it out, The bit that screws into the alternator was M10
So I bought a banjo with hosetail instead.

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And plumbed it into the top of the oil filter housing.

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Cleaned and painted an air tank.

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Which I then fitted this afternoon.

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Prv arrived, Looks like it'll do the job.

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Made a bracket to hold it in place.
Slightly overkill with the m10 bolts

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Just need some long m6 bolts to hold the prv on now.

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Got a load of bits this morning, God the posty must hate me
Decided to buy a cheapo cone filter for now, Until I come up with a better idea and it's better than sucking ****e in.
LHD speedo cable fitted.
Pass pipes joined together. Still waiting on the bits for the prv.

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Altered how I'd done the bottom hose.
Starting to get a bit busy in their now

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And stuck the rad back in.
Hoping it doesn't need to come back out to many times.

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aaronmorris said:

Cheers Been contemplating getting a complete disco myself for some bits for the current project.

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I picked up a tidy 1998 disco with 120k on the clock for £500, it still has an MOT too, so there are some bargains out there. I'm going to try and sell what I don't need to recoupe some money too.

James_mac said:

I picked up a tidy 1998 disco with 120k on the clock for £500, it still has an MOT too, so there are some bargains out there. I'm going to try and sell what I don't need to recoupe some money too.

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Should recoupe a fair chunk of that.
But yeah, That's exactly what I want my self

I'm not sure on this but I think the valve on top of your air tank should be pointing down.
Also it'll frighten the feck out of you when it dumps it's pressure every minuet or so. Best fit a silencer on it.

I hope you didn't get paint on the pressure release valve it's self.

markSX said:

I'm not sure on this but I think the valve on top of your air tank should be pointing down.
Also it'll frighten the feck out of you when it dumps it's pressure every minuet or so. Best fit a silencer on it.

I hope you didn't get paint on the pressure release valve it's self.

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Yeah, I couldn't remember which way it went.
That's why it's just sat in the cradle at the mo
Although I think you're right.
And nope, No paint on it.

markSX said:

I'm not sure on this but I think the valve on top of your air tank should be pointing down.
Also it'll frighten the feck out of you when it dumps it's pressure every minuet or so. Best fit a silencer on it.

I hope you didn't get paint on the pressure release valve it's self.

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Thats an auto drain valve, when the moisture in the tank builds up its self drains and yes goes at the bottom, best to put a fitting into the drainer and vent outside body, old truck engine compressors always pass oil and mixed with the water its not pretty what comes out!

Few bits from the last couple of days again.
Tried to do it last night but I couldn't get the pics off the camera

Turned the tank the right way
Which now hit the floor, So I've cut some spacers to stick under the brackets and drilled a hole in the floor so it drains straight out.

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Now I bought a 4" 45* bend to get the air filter out of the way and reasonably tidy.
And now theirs a change of plan and it wont get used :doh:

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Now then, I started looking at the exhaust yesterday.
But getting it over the engine mount then under the starter would take a bit of f*cking about with.
It was plenty doable, But though if I flip the manifold it'd make it much easier.
And can be done with pretty much what I've got
So manifold turned upside down, I now need to clock the turbo.
So the oil feed is in the top and return out the bottom.
Can I get it to move? Can I f*ck
It want's heat really, But not got any.
Not ideal I know, But what you recon, Is the turbo going to die a horrible death? Or is it under that much pressure that it'll return from the top anyway?

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This is the adapter plate, Just needs a recess for the speedo housing and drilling now

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Wooh not long to first start now!