Recent content by warover

Yes, the sensor must be removed. That was not the difficult part for me. It was separating the hub assembly from the half shaft. This required a pulley because they were rusted together. Using care, you should not require a new ABS sensor. Once pulled, you can turn the hub by hand and you...

Please tell us how to place an order

In the ost that you are unable to open, I provided the following: 1. The vehicle is a 1991 Range Rover Classic with the 3.9L engine 2. The Fuel Pump Relay is the Bosch 0332014112 3. I included a diagram of the 5 pin configuration which is the familiar 5 pin layout. In addition, there is...

First of all, the subject vehicle is a 1991 Range Rover Classic equied with the 3.9l engine. The Fuel Pump Relay is: Bosch 0 332 014 112. Here is the layout:

I learned today that the Fuel Pump Relay differs from other 5 pin Relays in that it has two 87 ins as oosed to an 87 and an 87a. Does anyone know why it has this configuration? Are they interchangeable?

I finally see it! It is more specifically located beneath the Ignition Amplifier Module, the part that I need to remove. Now I have to figure out how to bet to it and with what. Surely, there was another way to design this. Now I understand why the info on it's location is so sketchy...

I have recently added a 1991 Range Rover Classic to my fleet. I bought it from a Storage location that was selling it for fees due. It had been in storage for about 2 years. The engine will turn over but will not start. I am currently attempting to remove the Distributor in order to remove...

Thanks Martyn for your response. There is a nearby body shop that I will visit for mounting the light guards. Thanks for your offer. Earl

Martyn Are you the same Martyn who is on RangeRover.net? I was viewing your profile and saw the installation of the light guards without drilling. I have a set of the light guards from another vehicle. What was the source of your mounting kit? Your Vogue is really nice! I had not seen...

Recently, I had a whine when I coasted and the consensus here was that it was the differential. I has already replaced the transmission filter and fluid, rotated the tires, and replaced the brake pads. I checked the fluids in the torque converter and both differentials. All had fluids that...

The whining noise is now gone! The source was either the front passenger hub which had a grinding sound and would not turn smoothly or the front differential which had a loose center bolt in the flange that allowed it to wobble. I replaced both. My vehicle is a 1999 4.0SE (Bosch/Thor)...

I did drain the differentials and each was filled with a black sludge Each of the magnetic plugs had little slivers of metal attached. Racher than attempt to replace the bearings,I decided to replace the differential as a unit. Thus the removal of my differential. Today I went to a salvage...

I have removed my rear differential. As I turn the flange that attaches to the u joint, I feel a little drag. Could this have caused the whine? After an eyeball inspection, everything else seems to be ok. Thanks again for your thoughts.

Thanks so much for your responses. While I had checked the fluid levels in the Differentials, I did not consider that they had problems since the fluid levels were good. Thanks again.

I have a high-pitched whine that I am unable to identify. This whiningnoise sounds when I remove my foot from the accelerator and coast. It is there regardless of the speed. Once I return my foot to the accelerator, the sound goes away. The vehicle operates normally with no niticable...