I know from doing a similar job some years ago that it likely will be possible but will be a mix and match of parts and you better keep a note of what was done for later repairs. As above contact Mike at Brittanica.
Find a pic of a new shaft and orientate journals as per pic. You will have a 50/50 chance of getting it right or be 180 degrees out. Frankly as most of the weight is in the main section it may well be good either way.
I’ve never worried about which way round the yokes get put back on. As long as you haven’t pulled the sliding halves apart they will still be phased correctly.
Happy to be corrected! 😀
Only fit GKN.
Did this job yesterday, aside from the new outer shafts being Britpart, and thus needing a few seconds on the grinder to make the yokes the right shape. No problems.
Have you measure the gap(door opening)
On both sides of the motor?
Have you measured the doors?
This will tell how much you need to make the drivers side larger
Have you tried messing about with the hinges? There might not be enough movement, then try what @dag019 suggests. But I'd at least start with the hinges.
You may not like this but to sort the door top leaning out wind window down, get both knees against at window level, grab the top of door with both hands and give a good heave to bend it in a tad.
It is the sort of stuff they did at the factory...
Thanks for your reply
Yeah the rear quarter was done, I’m not sure if the door shut properly before though, I’m aware of the bulkhead will be a lot of work to replace and a fair bit of money, I think I’ll have to acept the fact it’s never going...
Even a 19j model had a full set of blade fuses. Mine was a 19j but now 200tdi and it still has the standard set up.
There are several relays below the fuses. For some reason I can not open your pic above.
All of your pics are of case casting numbers. The box number/suffix of a series three box is stamped on the top edge of the transfer box, [ nuts I know] Steamwally on youtube has a very good series 3 box rebuild in 3 parts.
The left hand set of...
Its a pretty time consuming job to change a bulkhead as well as the cost. As the door shuts it can not be to far out. As @miktdish says pics of door closed and open and the chassis beneath the bulkhead floor may help us advise you. Fitted a new...
Thanks so much for responding.
Yes, I have driven them. Did some green-laning in an old 90 mostly with my Brother in law. I agree they're not for everyone....it's part of why I love them. I've avoided up to now due to practical reasons & nothing...
It matters not which model you go for with regards reliability. Any from the 200tdi to the last TDCI will be good as long as it has been serviced and cared for in its life. Later models have a bit more comfort but earlier are simpler to maintain...
The Wilks Bros had the pre production run chassis galvanised. Rover dropped it on cost grounds and the thought that the "Land Rover" would only be a gap filler until other post war car design's came along.
The Prototype Land rover was based on...
Ok so if you've got a spark on #4 and you've got fuel, air and compression then yes it should fire. Do you have timing gun? Clip it onto #4 and see if you still have a spark under compression.
If not then either cap/lead/plug are failing under...
Ours was a 2a petrol with 7.50 x 16 with overdrive and seemed well suited. Saying that you did need to try and anticipate the nature of the road make sure you are in the correct gear and try not to let the revs die down.
Petrol engine is pretty...
Looks like a Lucas A127 type. Have a look at MURE "rotatingelectrics.co.uk" I have used them several times. Suppliers of replacement alternator/starter parts and complete units. Decent Prices.