Recent content by sierrafery

YWB10004L

I dont know what's the real problem but as long as they react to the fob it's nothing electrical that's certain

If you hear an activity in the latch while you give any command with the fob or dash switch the problem is definitely not electrical and you might have bought two "tired" actuators which gave up the gost at the same time, it can happen with used parts, if it's absolute silence in the latches on...

yes seems so, quite strange... then measure resistances and compare cos even if the solenoid works it might have a resistance out of the diagnostic protocol's range, the whole diagnostic guide is attached

Yes, then if no click double check by splicing into the next solenoid's wire to make sure the click is audible(i tried on D2 and i heard it) so if the RHF doesnt click and the other does you know but if no sound on any solenoids compare resistances between ground and those wires and if...

Find the wire which ges to it from the modulator's connector and splice into it with +12V cos afaik the earth is common for all and if it clicks it should be OK, or find the wire for other solenoid, measure resistance and compare if you see what i mean

Hi, you can download for free the whole electrical trubleshooting manual from the web just search "Discovery 1 ETM pdf" or see THIS , just read the introducting user guide to know how to corroborate the wire colours and connector views cos it's not very human friendly

Seems that the pressure transducer is fubar

I'm not sure that the scanner you used is reliable but if it is i see that the fuel pump drive is off so you can't expect it to start that way, the pump should be on for about 3 minutes after the ignition was turned on then if the ECU doesnt get a rpm signal it turns it off

+1^^^ and a fuel pressure gauge connected to watch the pressure while cranking cos on defenders i've seen many cases when this kind of stubborn starting issue is fuel supply related hence no fault codes albeit a nanocom or haweye is compulsory to rule out a quite common topside switch failure...

IMO that spike in the readings is the moment when the symptom occurs and it can be caused by a weak contact somewhere(ECU plugs or other connector, oil acts as isolator in the red plug) otherwise nothing wrong with the TPS or other sensor readings except the fact that it's underfuelled or low on...

Unfortunately that motor seems obsolete all over the place, i bought one as well about 2 years ago then sent the bad one to a rewinding service and they made it like new for half the price so i keep that for spare.

What scantool gave you that code? remove the ACE relay, bridge the contact's cavities in the fusebox with a wire, read all te live inputs at idle and post them here then i'll tell you more ... also make an output/circuit test for the PCV and DCVs to see if they click on command or not

here's from the WSM:

I meant the SET+ input in special(with CC on of course), if you see that one on command and nothing happens the only suspect i see is the ECU