Recent content by sierrafery

I have no ideea, my guess is that you'll have to remove it and refit it using the correct procedure

Hi, that's the problem IMO, it must be connected and energised to be swapped also after that it needs calibration so you need a proper diagnostic tool which has this function, you can just simply mechanically swap it

Even if the voltage doesnt drop so much with extra power but still hard to start the internal problem of the starter can mix up the crank signal's waveform and disturb the ECU, i hate to recommend more work while i'm not sure that's the problem cos i'll have a remorse if you work in vain but if...

IMO that's the problem, the ECU needs at least 11V while cranking to start right away, 10.5 is the lowest limit, i'd replace the starter motor if you are certain that the battery is not weak or use jump leads from other vehicle and if it still drops to 10 or below with extra power then the...

I presume it was with ignition on and engine not running then the readings are OK, now watch the rpm and battery voltage while cranking and tell how much is the airflow after it started

Nope

It's much bigger work than it appears, grille and side finishers + separate indicators, levelling motors and wiring mods for that, welding and grinding as well, at the end it can be beneficial cos those lamps are not chased by thiefs and even if they are hurt are quite cheap by new and way much...

then read the FT from cold in the morning after a night rest without starting the engine only with ignition on, it should be the same with the coolant temp at that point if the sensor is OK and close to the ambient/overall temp(use a laser thermometer on the head for that) if you see what i mean

No you can't rule out a manual ECU with an auto one but even if you could you would need nanocom or similar to set it and if you have such disgnostic tool you can read live data from the sensors and that's the only way to fix this thing if it's a management issue not some mechanical or fuel...

Yes it can be the fuel temp sensor which is in the FPR but only live data can reveal it cos it doesnt trigger a fault code if it has erratic readings only if it's short or open circuit.

Yes it's possible, too bad that the nanocom you hired didnt have the alarm menu in it cos at this point it's very suspect if you say the alarm is sounding and you really need to check if the ECU receives the 10AS security code otherwise it's "locked" and will not open the injectors ... here are...

+1 for both ^^^ also check if the red plug is not full of oil if you didnt keep cleaning it from rezidual oil after you replaced the injector loom

That's why i suggested to remove them from the door completeley and insert a flexible spray nozzle through the holes you see if you can or drill some holes carefully though that plastic plate

Hi, just a guess as ițve never had them but the only chance seems to be to remove them from the door and try from that side

Check for oil in the ECU red plug if it is clean it well with contact spray and replace the injector loom ASAP... if it's dry replace the crank sensor and make sure it's wiring and connector are in good shape