sierrafery's latest activity

I have no ideea, my guess is that you'll have to remove it and refit it using the correct procedure

Hi, that's the problem IMO, it must be connected and energised to be swapped also after that it needs calibration so you need a proper diagnostic tool which has this function, you can just simply mechanically swap it

Even if the voltage doesnt drop so much with extra power but still hard to start the internal problem of the starter can mix up the crank signal's waveform and disturb the ECU, i hate to recommend more work while i'm not sure that's the problem...

IMO that's the problem, the ECU needs at least 11V while cranking to start right away, 10.5 is the lowest limit, i'd replace the starter motor if you are certain that the battery is not weak or use jump leads from other vehicle and if it still...

I presume it was with ignition on and engine not running then the readings are OK, now watch the rpm and battery voltage while cranking and tell how much is the airflow after it started

Nope

It's much bigger work than it appears, grille and side finishers + separate indicators, levelling motors and wiring mods for that, welding and grinding as well, at the end it can be beneficial cos those lamps are not chased by thiefs and even if...

then read the FT from cold in the morning after a night rest without starting the engine only with ignition on, it should be the same with the coolant temp at that point if the sensor is OK and close to the ambient/overall temp(use a laser...

No you can't rule out a manual ECU with an auto one but even if you could you would need nanocom or similar to set it and if you have such disgnostic tool you can read live data from the sensors and that's the only way to fix this thing if it's a...

Yes it can be the fuel temp sensor which is in the FPR but only live data can reveal it cos it doesnt trigger a fault code if it has erratic readings only if it's short or open circuit.

Could it be some sort of temp sender sending the wrong signal to the ECM? @sierrafery will know if this is a possibility.

Yes it's possible, too bad that the nanocom you hired didnt have the alarm menu in it cos at this point it's very suspect if you say the alarm is sounding and you really need to check if the ECU receives the 10AS security code otherwise it's...

+1 for both ^^^ also check if the red plug is not full of oil if you didnt keep cleaning it from rezidual oil after you replaced the injector loom

The other known fault, well one of them, is that if your batt isn't up to snuff it might crank over but still not fire as the ECM doesn't see enough voltage. Try jumping it from another car, and/or get your batt properly tested. Frustrating, I know.

Hi Stewart You appear to have covered most probable faults although that is no guarantee you've cured them. The other possible fault for poor starting that springs to mind is the starter motor. There is a known problem of the starter motor where...

Thought I'd close this thread with my solution, although it was weeks ago. I had all the faces on the oil cooler block and filter block skimmed and fitted new gaskets. So far it's stayed leak free.

That's why i suggested to remove them from the door completeley and insert a flexible spray nozzle through the holes you see if you can or drill some holes carefully though that plastic plate

Hi, just a guess as ițve never had them but the only chance seems to be to remove them from the door and try from that side

Check for oil in the ECU red plug if it is clean it well with contact spray and replace the injector loom ASAP... if it's dry replace the crank sensor and make sure it's wiring and connector are in good shape

Across the middle perpendicular cavities: 30 - 87... if it doesnt crank that way and no click from the starter solenoid measure for live on the spade , if it has +12V the starter is fubar, if no power the problem is at the fusebox or the wire to...

try

You posted D2 diagrams which have nothing to do with a D1's electrics so i have no ideea what you are after nor where to connect those wires

"Key in" sensor and ignition key interlock solenoid, both neglected in the diagrams... though you should'n have posted with Disco 1 prefix

Sorry, just realised that it's the front passenger window and my last reply and attacchments were for the rear, here is for front which is a bit different as the motor is powered direcly by the ECU so check if there is power across pins H - G of...

Your AC seems low on gas and has a drain tube clogged, as about the window, as long as it works with direct power to the motor and all the other windows are working means that the problem is on that particular circuit starting from the switch...

Hi, first of all as your profile is incomplete you should be specific if it's LHD or RHD vehicle and to know if you can fix it or not tell on a 1 to10 scale how handy are you with electrics

The problem is that like you can see at position 78 when you get 591 air flow the boost is only 1.28 which is low, at that sucction the boost should be very close to 1.4 just below the overboost limit, if you hear some hissing sound there might...

so what that "blows a lot" means? just be aware that the hotter it runs the less power it has.... check the wastegate to not be stuck open, how many threads yo have left from the locknut on the wastegate rod?

Nothing obviously wrong in those readings except that the coolant temp goes a bit higher than normal, if it's blowing black smoke i doubt it's underfuelled but there can be a leak along the air inlet/turbo circuit somewhere, some important things...

Agree with Sierra, those DTC's don't really mean anything. Have a good look around starter, just beware of live wires ! Can't recall the part name but I had the ignition barrel fail on mine which resulted in non start, but this was a gradual...