sierrafery's latest activity

Hi. That would be the best if you want to have no issues with such things and you can install a hidden "kill switch" under the dash if you want it to be unstartable for potential thieves

Nanocom is the best for Defender no need for comparisons

Then that's the problem, might not be the ECU but a wrong fuel map.

The wastegte seems to be tighter than from factory so it should not be low on boost for that reason that became clear when you said it's from 2003.... i cant say more than i've already said about the black smoke

here's a copy from the first generation nanocom's function list:

I've seen many logs and 10*C difference between the ECT and FT is quite usual and considered normal, as about hight FT input AFAIK when it exceeds 75*C a smoke limiter map kicks in and the ECU reduces the IQ(injected quantity), the higher the rpm...

Hi. Read the fault code, i've seen such symptoms on V8s caused by the CPS or even by the MAF sensor, the code will reveal it

As i said it doesnt seem a management issue, it's overfuelled for some reason and a bit low on boost... might be from the injectors or the turbo if you are certain that there is no boost leak... is it manual or auto? also how many threads are...

Maybe on the P38 as you can inflate all 4 of them more than normal and then it can be stiff but on the D2 being only at the rear if you inflate them more than normal the vehicle will not be horizontal and on a well calibrated D2 the ride is much...

:vb-headbang: ^^^ that's named cognitive dissonance, unless your SLS was not working well from the beginning ... though if you want something really good i recommend THESE but never expect to have the ride quality of one with air springs despite...

Even though the readings look OK unplug the MAF and drive it so for test.... is the EGR bypassed?

You might not notice it if you are not used to a well running Td5 driven with nervs. As long as you have the AAP fault code logged the ECU is on default for that specific code and one of the symptoms is "boost limited to 1 bar" so without correct...

See live stationary voltage inputs... if they are all similar or very close(between 2 - 2.3v) the problem is most probably the hub, if the one with the code is out of that it's a wiring issue ...or ECU misbehaviour

Check the MAP/IAT sensor. Mine did that. With help from on here I checked the data while it was running which proved that even though clean, it was fubar.

Just to say thank you Fery, problem sorted (till the next time!!) I hadn't seen the bit about swapping the relays but that did the trick. Strange as there was no sign, or smell of any burning or damage but anyway, changing it worked. I was all...

The cat is on the downpipe, removing the rest of the exhaust is unlikely to make any difference to a blocked cat.

Try Gates or Contitech

I dont know such mechanical stuff but isn't the numbering through the spyhole about the firing order? i said injector 5 meaning the last from front to rear where there is no glow plug... it's good to know though how carbon can behave in such cases

If that pump related fault code keeps coming back after ignition there is a problem on that path which must be diagnosed properly and repaired, it seems that the fault is recognised only on the system's ignition self test, simply clearing the...

The oddity was that looked like factory fitted and was rock solid while on the other 4 was completely different and softer like this

Hi, what makes you think that the Nano 1 is not giving the correct code? the EVO is not the best with ABS faults so i'd buy a Foxwell beside the Nano 1 if only the ABS is your concern... Unplug one ABS sensor and read codes that way and if Nano 1...

And thank u sierraferry I did understand after reading those pdfs properly

Hallelujah SHE RUNS , I'd had a mouse visitor previous owner had left loads of blue roll after wiping dipstick next to fuse box and said mouse was starting to make a nest and the only wire it had eaten was the return fro. The inertia switch...

So after working on my roof I went to pay my Bill when a lovely woman in her little Ford smacked me in the passanger door, it didnt look a lot but the door was dificult to close any way a quick search round and I and I managed to get a Scrap...

Mystery solved after a divine intervention :)... that black "seal-shape" thing was petrified carbon deposit, the one with the gap is normal ... it was injector nr.5 so the missing glow plug might have some effect too.

It's explained clear enough in both docs i sent you(diagrams and electricall ibrary) in the introduction but you must use acrobat reader to see them properly and go dirctly to where yoiu need... for example in the "charging and starting" diagram...

the connector views are from the pins/cavities side and for each pin there is the wire colour code... read the user guides in the diagrams file and HERE if you want troubleshoot yourself such things

Bizarre indeed... the pics came from a friend of mine, the pics are after he removed the old washers, i dont know much about these things cos when it comes to such jobs i pay my mechanic... i searched a lot by p/n and didnt find a pic from that...

Yes that would be the good move, then unplug C0605(maybe it's just bad contact in it) and check continuity from pin 3 to inertia switch, if interrupted rewire that one, if you have continuity the probem is within the fusebox, you must have...

Hi all. The injectors were removed from the same engine... how comes that the first one has a kind of gap around the nozzle where the washer fits and the other has like a seal??? the other 3 are all like the first one with the gap :oops:, am i...