sierrafery's latest activity

Not uncommon for those housings to be cracked see this https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/oil-filter-housing-cracking.392305/

New used BCU arrived today from USA. Car is now up and running! Thank you sierrafery for helping! Best regards

Hi, those codes seem to come from some generic scantool, anyway if it's 10P engine and automatic box the main problem is with the crank sensor or it's wiring/plug hence the EML warning and CAN fault code and the MAF fault is irrelevant unless you...

YWB10004L

I've started to run through the diagnostic guide. Solenoid valves resistance, all close to spec: Front/Rear inlets 7.2Ω Front/Rear outlets 3.9Ω Wheel sensors resistance: Front left 987Ω Front right 988Ω Rear left 987Ω Rear right 988Ω (same...

I dont know what's the real problem but as long as they react to the fob it's nothing electrical that's certain

If you hear an activity in the latch while you give any command with the fob or dash switch the problem is definitely not electrical and you might have bought two "tired" actuators which gave up the gost at the same time, it can happen with used...

yes seems so, quite strange... then measure resistances and compare cos even if the solenoid works it might have a resistance out of the diagnostic protocol's range, the whole diagnostic guide is attached

Yes, then if no click double check by splicing into the next solenoid's wire to make sure the click is audible(i tried on D2 and i heard it) so if the RHF doesnt click and the other does you know but if no sound on any solenoids compare...

Find the wire which ges to it from the modulator's connector and splice into it with +12V cos afaik the earth is common for all and if it clicks it should be OK, or find the wire for other solenoid, measure resistance and compare if you see what...

Hi, you can download for free the whole electrical trubleshooting manual from the web just search "Discovery 1 ETM pdf" or see THIS , just read the introducting user guide to know how to corroborate the wire colours and connector views cos it's...

Seems that the pressure transducer is fubar

I'm not sure that the scanner you used is reliable but if it is i see that the fuel pump drive is off so you can't expect it to start that way, the pump should be on for about 3 minutes after the ignition was turned on then if the ECU doesnt get...

+1^^^ and a fuel pressure gauge connected to watch the pressure while cranking cos on defenders i've seen many cases when this kind of stubborn starting issue is fuel supply related hence no fault codes albeit a nanocom or haweye is compulsory...

IMO that spike in the readings is the moment when the symptom occurs and it can be caused by a weak contact somewhere(ECU plugs or other connector, oil acts as isolator in the red plug) otherwise nothing wrong with the TPS or other sensor...

Unfortunately that motor seems obsolete all over the place, i bought one as well about 2 years ago then sent the bad one to a rewinding service and they made it like new for half the price so i keep that for spare.

What scantool gave you that code? remove the ACE relay, bridge the contact's cavities in the fusebox with a wire, read all te live inputs at idle and post them here then i'll tell you more ... also make an output/circuit test for the PCV and DCVs...

here's from the WSM:

I meant the SET+ input in special(with CC on of course), if you see that one on command and nothing happens the only suspect i see is the ECU

I don't think that the TB ratio can affect that but if it was remapped that might have mixed up things coz as long as you see the inputs the problem is definitely with the ECU... if you go into the Info section what you see at Cruise control...

It was very common at a time, happened to me and to others too, see https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/d2-front-driveshaft-seal.391253/#post-5673652

Hi, the short way to the answer is to read the stored fault code with a compatible scanner, the EML on a Td5 can be triggered only by two things: crank sensor or throttle sensor signals issues

Is that function working? i mean is it accelerating on that command?

You have to press the SET+ only not buttons ...did you read the WSM about how to operate the CC?

Can you accelerate from the remote?... also are your horns working?

That will never work well unless you are very skilled with electronics and work on the PCB to insert the clutch switch's input circuit which is missing in the auto EU also you have to remap it for manual, simply changing settings with nanocom is...

BTW my repairs worked out slightly cheaper than a delete kit EXCEPT I bought a brand new rear ARB because it was cheap, rude not to.

On such converted vehicles nothing is strange and hard to diagnose cos the diagrams dont match anymore and depends very much how big of a specialist was who worked on it. Was a manual ECU fitted after the mechanical conversion? Record "inputs...

With nanocom in engine ECU inputs:

Smith and Allan oils are good. This one would be better for a PD type engine. https://www.smithandallan.com/product/smith-allan-momentum-fs-5w-40-engine-oil-4485