Rubberknees's latest activity

I had to bend mine a good bit more than stated in the TSB before the water ingress stopped completely. A thin smear of silicone grease on the rubber helps and it will show if there is a spot not making contact with the hatch.

Thought that was.. don't go out in the rain 🤔🙄

Your motor is a wind-up artist.

Been reading up and possibly a dirty maf, leaky injector, leaky boost pipe amongst a few other things could push the mpg-ometer off.. suppose i need to check it out before i get a limpy mode

I think you can see what I am thinking but those horns take up a lot of space. There's just about room behind the fuel filter and above the chassis leg. Need to make up a bracket to attach the arm to the bulkhead. Compressor will sit inside the ring.

You can cut the old belt off and measure it end to end. Then you'll know the size 👍

Done a lot of towing today helping someone move house. Performed flawlessly.

How old is the petrol in the tank? 🤔

Might be easier to list what you don't need to look at :rolleyes:

Thanks Datatek, Will do.. yes that's where I'd like to see the drip coming from inevitably.... Titch

Wash the FIP off with brake cleaner, then you will be able to see just where the leak is. There is a security bolt in the top cover, either buy the special socket or tap a suitable normal socket on and then replace with a standard bolt when...

I shall spend time over the weekend to check.. thanks for the 'encouragement' .. ( or hopes), I've got a lot of tidying up to do out there.... Titch

On both mine it was just the top seal leaking, as John said, an easy fix.

If its the top seal its an easy fix. Any where else you need to be very confident. Quick check first. its not a leak off pipe above pump leaking onto it is it. I once had that.

Mine would only get up big chimneys these days

Think he means small son up chimney to clean it !

Suction pumps? Or elephants?

Useful for cleaning chimneys too.

There’s no longer such a thing as a Sonnax valve body assembly. I would suggest that you send your worn unit to someone like Valve Bodies UK http://www.valvebodyuk.co.uk/ or STA Aylesbury https://www.staautogearbox.co.uk/ who own a Hydra-Test...

ok, both the RL and RR have had the wiring and connector to the sensors replaced, soldered in and heatshrinked, plus a flexible conduit like the original around the outside. I have also decided to swap out the FR spring which is the only one left...

Haha! 1 it is then! Nothing on the ground yet, and I'm well used to keeping an eye on Land Rover fluids as a matter of course. It's deffo coming from the join, not the plug. I'll leave it for now, and wait for a good excuse to take it all...

Now then, are you sure it's out of sync? Is there the "engine immobilized" on the dashboard? 👍

I guess if it's just mechanical/bodywork repairs then go for it. If it has electrical gremlins run away.

A project, something to tinker with and something that will get me to work every most days.

Split pin. The draw isn't massive so it won't heat up in your fingers👍

Same short length of wire with two spades is useful for running the EAS Pump manually as well !!

I've still got some of those ebay washers, I'll go out and measure one, see how they compere with what you've ordered @Mark Piercy

Thinking about it...might be wrong here..but don't early models only pump on cranking, later models just ign on?? Mines 2001 so I just have to cycle the ign. I do have a short length of wire with two male spades on it in my door pocket that I...

Cheers dad :D