A mechanic offered me to switch my EAS to coils for a decent price. Honestly I didn't even consider his offer because yes, while the EAS has more systems to take care of than springs and it can cause all sorts of problems and even leave you...
The bearing can be pressed out of the hub with the right equipment like a 20 tonne press. Changing the whole hub is easier and if you are paying a mechanic probably not a lot more expensive given how much they charge per hour these days.
Well done a bit of running around today and guess what, yep no problems. Plus a lot warmer today. I did give the block a really good spraying of soapy water checking for leaks, maybe got some into the electrics and with a good run round and...
Low battery could certainly cause problems if for example the apparent low voltage is due to bad earths, battery terminal connections or the live feed to the EAS ECU.
After a bit more investigations it looks like the transfer case is the culprit rather than the auto box.
I noticed Ashcroft have rebuilt kits and chains available.
Did anyone here already attempt an overhaul of the Borg Warner transfer case...
If it can break it will break when I handle things and at £180 or so for the glass I really don't want to risk it. I overcompensate with force because the 'good' arm isn't so great and I can't judge what pressure I'm using.
That would involve taking the glass out to get a smooth finish. Otherwise there will be an edge just inside the lip. also I'm a bit impatient, and OCD. Trying to get all the bubble out would just drive me nuts:vb-kaioken:
Hard to correlate. With the engine is running the EAS should see the charging voltage, unless there's some voltage drop between the fusebox & the EAS. Keith's capacitor mod should remove any spikes & glitches on the 12V supply.
On mine...
+1 the dash always beeps & displays the message when connecting EAS diagnostics. Same applies to Nanocom & EASunlock software.
Always use either the "Stop" button in EASunlock, or exit the menus on Nanocom before disconnecting the cable.
Could also be intermittent connection in the pins & sockets inside the connector between driver pack & solenoids. The fix is to de-pin them one at a time & gently squeeze the sockets so they grip the pins properly.
But do the capacitor mod...
If you want to play, fit a 200uf 63 volt 105C electrolytic across the power wires as close as possible to the driver pack and see if that fixes it. cheaper than a replacement pack.
Past 2 weeks back end sagging overnight. Leaks found in bags so they were replaced. Back end still going down. Diaphragm valve was leaking in valve block so decided on full rebuild. Was given a valve block to rebuild with full kit from XR8. This...
Did you use the tunnel? If not I would give them a ring. They can be helpful.
A couple of years ago I went over the Dart' Bridge and was shocked to discover they don't do cash and you have to pay online within 24 hours - which I had no means of...
Can you feel the gouges with your thumbnail? If you can't I'd say you're safe. If your nail catches on the gouge then I'd say you've introduced a weak point....
Indicators overriding the hazards seems a good idea to me. Imagine being on tow, hazards on to warn traffic behind but still being able to indicate the intention to turn.