Bushes there is a lot of choice with. But there are narrow and wide radius arms, so you'll need to know what you have. Older models are usually narrow, but they could have been changed.
Likewise the rear axle would probably have been a drum...
Thank you - Although I've been a LR owner fro years, I've been lucky, and not had to replace too many parts, so a little "green and cabbage looking" when it comes to trying to work out what on earth I'm looking at....
I would also use the forums if you're unsure.. just post an image of what you're looking for etc if you can't find it on LRWorkshop.. people here reply when there's an image of something.
I have a Revotec 200/300Tdi sucker fan kit. It works very well and there's zero risk of viscous failure, also doesn't sap any engine power. The important thing with LR diesel engines is that they run relatively cool, they're not a hot engine...
In essence, I am considering an electric fan, as the 90 takes an age to get up to operating temp, whilst I appreciate that the 90/200TDi is a relatively cool running setup, I can get from home to work without the temperature coming up to running...
Once again agreeing with the above. I run superpro bushes in mine for everything other than radius arm to chassis and trailing arm to chassis which are standard OEM rubber bushes on mine.
not heard about the spring isolators, do you @v850 have...
Thank you for the helpful reply - I'm familiar with the Mil lighting setup, so am not planning any changes to that area.
It's good to know the bits I'm trying to purchase are "standard", that is reassuring...
I understood from the available...
Myles, I too have a 1987 MOD Ninety. Depending on model kit out...12v GS, 24v FFR etc., nearly all components are readily available. It's really worth getting to know the lrworkshop.com diagram pages as most components are shown/listed there...
There's a lot of stuff on the LR workshop website nowadays, but I've found the Land Rover parts catalogue invaluable. Indeed, I find the diagrams in there (although a bit small) more useful than a manual in working out how things come apart and...
True enough, it could have a myriad of things changed - but I've got to start somewhere..
It has the mil lighting set up of
H.S.T - Headlights, sidelights and tail lights.
S.T - Sidelights and tail lights.
T - Just taillights, no front lights...
Good morning,
Thanks for the info (and advice on removing the VIN details from here - done)
I do look at the lrworkshop.com site and my eyes bogle! - but I am getting better, especially as I now understand the VIN...
Most items I have...
Hi, Using the VIN to order parts for older trucks is no guarantee you will get the right parts. You just do not know what modifications/changes have been done over the years and some part numbers will have been superseded. Old Landy's often a mix...
It should be the last 8 digits. the letters move up alphabetically and the numbers go in sequentially.
on the below example (just quickly pulled form the paddocks website) if your chassis number was LA939974 you would be choosing the left hand...
Thank you for the reply, And I absolutely agree, it's no guarantee, but I hope to use it as a starting point.
WRT to originality, i know it is relatively unmolested since its day in the MOD, with the exception of a 200TDi engine being fitted...
Good afternoon all,
Sorry to ask such a simple question, but I am a simple man...
I am trying to source a few spare parts for my ex-mil LR90 (made in 1986/87)
I have the VIN, but for the life of me cannot work out which bit of the VIN I...