How do I use my VIN to order the right parts? - Please

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Myles Tagoyet

Myles Tagoyet

New Member
Posts
9
Location
Carmarthenshire
Good afternoon all,

Sorry to ask such a simple question, but I am a simple man...

I am trying to source a few spare parts for my ex-mil LR90 (made in 1986/87)

I have the VIN, but for the life of me cannot work out which bit of the VIN I should use when looking for the parts I need, any guidance you can give would be very much appreciated.

I've used a VIN de-coder, but am still confused....

Thank you
 
Hi, Using the VIN to order parts for older trucks is no guarantee you will get the right parts. You just do not know what modifications/changes have been done over the years and some part numbers will have been superseded. Old Landy's often a mix and match of parts
Knowing build date, engine and gearbox type fitted [can have been changed] How original do you think yours is?
 
It should be the last 8 digits. the letters move up alphabetically and the numbers go in sequentially.

on the below example (just quickly pulled form the paddocks website) if your chassis number was LA939974 you would be choosing the left hand sections. If your chassis number was MA939977 you would choose the right

1709557033395.png


However there is a caveat with a vehicle of that age that just because it is correct for the vehicle doe snot mean it will actually fit. for example my '89 110 fall into the left hand category (FA36****) of the above, but I have a later model wiring loom and lights so i actually need the right hand category of parts. if you are in any doubt remove the old part and then match what you already have. if in real doubt post some pictures on here and people will be able to help.

EDIT @tottot beat me to the warning about ordering on chassis number
 
Myles Tagoyet said:
Good afternoon all,

Sorry to ask such a simple question, but I am a simple man...

I am trying to source a few spare parts for my ex-mil LR90 (made in 1986/87)

I have the VIN, but for the life of me cannot work out which bit of the VIN I should use when looking for the parts I need, any guidance you can give would be very much appreciated.

I've used a VIN de-coder, but am still confused....

Thank you
Click to expand...

tottot said:
Hi, Using the VIN to order parts for older trucks is no guarantee you will get the right parts. You just do not know what modifications/changes have been done over the years and some part numbers will have been superseded. Old Landy's often a mix and match of parts
Knowing build date, engine and gearbox type fitted [can have been changed] How original do you think yours is?
Click to expand...

dag019 said:
It should be the last 8 digits. the letters move up alphabetically and the numbers go in sequentially.

on the below example (just quickly pulled form the paddocks website) if your chassis number was LA939974 you would be choosing the left hand sections. If your chassis number was MA939977 you would choose the right

View attachment 311889

However there is a caveat with a vehicle of that age that just because it is correct for the vehicle doe snot mean it will actually fit. for example my '89 110 fall into the left hand category (FA36****) of the above, but I have a later model wiring loom and lights so i actually need the right hand category of parts. if you are in any doubt remove the old part and then match what you already have. if in real doubt post some pictures on here and people will be able to help.

EDIT @tottot beat me to the warning about ordering on chassis number
Click to expand...
Every time I mod out something on my 1989 90, I promise myself I am going to take a note of what I have done in a book. Have I done it just once to date 🤔🤔
 
meego said:
Every time I mod out something on my 1989 90, I promise myself I am going to take a note of what I have done in a book. Have I done it just once to date 🤔🤔
Click to expand...
I keep saying exactly the same. however I was organised enough to make a wiring diagram for the raptor dash and accessories i fitted during the rebuild so I count that as win!
 
dag019 said:
I keep saying exactly the same. however I was organised enough to make a wiring diagram for the raptor dash and accessories i fitted during the rebuild so I count that as win!
Click to expand...
Is it possible to load it on here ?? I have a Raptor dash in the garage that is on my list of “Things to do” and it might come in handy 😁
 
tottot said:
Hi, Using the VIN to order parts for older trucks is no guarantee you will get the right parts. You just do not know what modifications/changes have been done over the years and some part numbers will have been superseded. Old Landy's often a mix and match of parts
Knowing build date, engine and gearbox type fitted [can have been changed] How original do you think yours is?
Click to expand...
Thank you for the reply, And I absolutely agree, it's no guarantee, but I hope to use it as a starting point.

WRT to originality, i know it is relatively unmolested since its day in the MOD, with the exception of a 200TDi engine being fitted circa 1998..
 
Last edited:
dag019 said:
It should be the last 8 digits. the letters move up alphabetically and the numbers go in sequentially.

on the below example (just quickly pulled form the paddocks website) if your chassis number was LA939974 you would be choosing the left hand sections. If your chassis number was MA939977 you would choose the right

View attachment 311889

However there is a caveat with a vehicle of that age that just because it is correct for the vehicle doe snot mean it will actually fit. for example my '89 110 fall into the left hand category (FA36****) of the above, but I have a later model wiring loom and lights so i actually need the right hand category of parts. if you are in any doubt remove the old part and then match what you already have. if in real doubt post some pictures on here and people will be able to help.

EDIT @tottot beat me to the warning about ordering on chassis number
Click to expand...
Thank you - that is really helpful, as I can now start at least in the right-ish area...
 
Myles, I too have a 1987 MOD Ninety. Depending on model kit out...12v GS, 24v FFR etc., nearly all components are readily available. It's really worth getting to know the lrworkshop.com diagram pages as most components are shown/listed there.

The MOD specific components are available from the regular MOD LR parts suppliers and are no more expensive than std off the shelf parts for civilian LR's.
 
meego said:
Is it possible to load it on here ?? I have a Raptor dash in the garage that is on my list of “Things to do” and it might come in handy 😁
Click to expand...
I can take some screenteen shots for you and pm. I have two as am currenrtly doing one for the station wagon. Somtheynhave slightly
Different layout and switch configurations.
 
Myles Tagoyet said:
Thank you - that is really helpful, as I can now start at least in the right-ish area...
Click to expand...
Maybe not. Really depends what parts you need. Mil models likely have a few differences to a civvy model, such as indicators and the like. Also a 200Tdi swap could have changes quite a lot of components, unless you know exactly what has been changed.
 
There's a lot of stuff on the LR workshop website nowadays, but I've found the Land Rover parts catalogue invaluable. Indeed, I find the diagrams in there (although a bit small) more useful than a manual in working out how things come apart and go back together again. If it doesn't look like yours, you can flip back and forth until you find the version that does. It also offers (reasonably accurate) information about changeover points and part supercessions. Just because a particular merchant's website says an item will fit your VIN doesn't mean it actually will!
 
v8250 said:
Myles, I too have a 1987 MOD Ninety. Depending on model kit out...12v GS, 24v FFR etc., nearly all components are readily available. It's really worth getting to know the lrworkshop.com diagram pages as most components are shown/listed there.

The MOD specific components are available from the regular MOD LR parts suppliers and are no more expensive than std off the shelf parts for civilian LR's.
Click to expand...
Good morning,

Thanks for the info (and advice on removing the VIN details from here - done)

I do look at the lrworkshop.com site and my eyes bogle! - but I am getting better, especially as I now understand the VIN...

Most items I have purchased have come from the usual suspects (Paddocks/Craddock/LRpart.net.... I wasn't aware of specific mil parts suppliers (who are they? please)

the history of my 90 is mainly RAF: RIV/build date 03-Mar-1987


Location UNKNOWN


15-Aug-1989 -Location JSCS ASHCHURCH


04-Oct-1989 - Location RAF WATTISHAM SUPPLY SQN


10-May-1993 -Location RAF WITTERING


26-Jun-1997 -Location RAF FORCE PROTECTION FORCE HQ


17-Jun-1998 - Location ADT BLACKBUSH Sold/Cast from Mil fleet.
 
Last edited:
300bhp/ton said:
Maybe not. Really depends what parts you need. Mil models likely have a few differences to a civvy model, such as indicators and the like. Also a 200Tdi swap could have changes quite a lot of components, unless you know exactly what has been changed.
Click to expand...
True enough, it could have a myriad of things changed - but I've got to start somewhere..

It has the mil lighting set up of
H.S.T - Headlights, sidelights and tail lights.
S.T - Sidelights and tail lights.
T - Just taillights, no front lights illuminated
Off
etc

Parts I need are bushes on the front axle/suspension, I plan to change the CVs too, whilst it is being fettled with..
 
Myles Tagoyet said:
True enough, it could have a myriad of things changed - but I've got to start somewhere..

It has the mil lighting set up of
H.S.T - Headlights, sidelights and tail lights.
S.T - Sidelights and tail lights.
T - Just taillights, no front lights illuminated
Off
etc

Parts I need are bushes on the front axle/suspension, I plan to change the CVs too, whilst it is being fettled with..
Click to expand...

The centre dash light switch is just a rotary switch, so now't difficult there.

Front axle bushes are the same as civvie jobbies, and can recommend you use SuperPro bushes as they nicely firm up the axle/suspension front and rear. If you're fitting new springs fit D2 spring to chassis rubber isolator rings, they really do quieten down suspension clash. CV's are std too so just buy CV's that fit model year. All this can be confirmed using lrworkshop.com diags.

The only area to be careful with is the engine fitted, the original for this year would have been the 2.5Td but many have been updated to 200Tdi or 300Tdi engines. Post a pic of your engine bay here if unsure.
 
v8250 said:
The centre dash light switch is just a rotary switch, so now't difficult there.

Front axle bushes are the same as civvie jobbies, and can recommend you use SuperPro bushes as they nicely firm up the axle/suspension front and rear. If you're fitting new springs fit D2 spring to chassis rubber isolator rings, they really do quieten down suspension clash. CV's are std too so just buy CV's that fit model year. All this can be confirmed using lrworkshop.com diags.

The only area to be careful with is the engine fitted, the original for this year would have been the 2.5Td but many have been updated to 200Tdi or 300Tdi engines. Post a pic of your engine bay here if unsure.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the helpful reply - I'm familiar with the Mil lighting setup, so am not planning any changes to that area.

It's good to know the bits I'm trying to purchase are "standard", that is reassuring...

I understood from the available history, that my 90 was originally fitted with a NA diesel, but either way, I know it now has a 200TDi, Ive treated it to a fully refurbed fuel pump set up etc, and it runs well.

I'm looking to fit an electric fan in due course, so would be interested in peoples thoughts on that..
 
v8250 said:
Front axle bushes are the same as civvie jobbies, and can recommend you use SuperPro bushes as they nicely firm up the axle/suspension front and rear. If you're fitting new springs fit D2 spring to chassis rubber isolator rings, they really do quieten down suspension clash. CV's are std too so just buy CV's that fit model year. All this can be confirmed using lrworkshop.com diags.
Click to expand...
Once again agreeing with the above. I run superpro bushes in mine for everything other than radius arm to chassis and trailing arm to chassis which are standard OEM rubber bushes on mine.

not heard about the spring isolators, do you @v850 have some more information on what they are for, is just a rubber pad the spring sets on?

v8250 said:
The only area to be careful with is the engine fitted, the original for this year would have been the 2.5Td but many have been updated to 200Tdi or 300Tdi engines. Post a pic of your engine bay here if unsure.
Click to expand...
As a military variant the engine is likely to have originally been a 2.5 NA, don't think the military every used the TD. Think there were all either 2.5NA or the later 300tdi as standard. I also have a 200tdi conversion in mine so if OP puts up some pictures of how the conversion has been done enough of us on here have similar conversions we could give you more information regarding what parts are needed for engine work.
 
I was still writing my post at the point you posted but I agree would have originally been an NA

Myles Tagoyet said:
I'm looking to fit an electric fan in due course, so would be interested in peoples thoughts on that..
Click to expand...
Why do you want an electric fan? I have one in mine but in the station wagon I am rebuilding and putting a 200ti into I will be keeping the viscous fan if at all possible. an electric doe snot give any benefits on fuel economy etc that people claim and i would argue offers far more reliable cooling in hot conditions than electric. If you do not have a fan shroud for it however it will be doing very little and with th electric setup I currently have i have lots of space at the front of the engine to work on things without needing to remove the fan and shroud every time.

I have a set of modeo twin fans fitted to mine that came from the scrap yard, controlled by the x-fan thermostatic switch.
 
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