Mark Piercy's latest activity

Fingers crossed for the latter then! Would it have been able to fit down a return at the back of the engine? I don’t think it bounced towards the front but who knows…

I once did similar on a Dolly Sprint engine, it was one that attached the timing chain sprocket to the camshaft. It fell in the sump. Getting it out again was messy, very messy, but I did it without having to drain the oil. Had to get the sump...

Its not hiding under the cam is it? Are they small enough to fit down one of the oild drains from the head down? If not then hope fully it hasnt gone all the way down. Do you still have the under engine gaurd on? Please dont tell me you are...

No, but if there’s a bolt in there it might as well have!! I’m not sure I dare! It ‘skipped’ across to the right bank and then I lost sight of it

If it went down one of the oil returns, chances are it's in the sump ? From that angle, my bet would be it bounced on chassis or drive shafts & is lodged or stuck to an oily bit below. If it hit the ground it could have bounced anywhere...

I really should pay more attention! I thought for a minute the engine had DROPPED OUT! If you know where you dropped it from, can you replicate and drop another nut, but attach to a piece of 'cotton' thread? Thin enough not to impede the drop...

The little legs to the potentiomèter (French keyboard predictive text) get loose from their soldered joints and cause bad feedback relating to their position and can be soldered. It may well be just the case. 👍

I was thinking maybe a stiff flap was causing a motor stall and not a blend motor issue at all. But the motor wouldn't run when off the box so that's that. Found a 9v battery for testing tomorrow, unless it's peeing down which is expected...

Sorry dude, I have trouble keeping up with my own kids names 😱

It was @biketeacherdave That had the write up with pics.

One step at a time my mate. Also when you do the diaphragm there also the none return valves. They sit in the block a certain way, these are something else that can leak but definitely check the diaphragm first as they crack and leak air from...

Ah , that makes sense , hopefully I can get this running. I don't want to have to switch to coils.

It will not work, if ECU wants to lift left rear for example but the wrong solenoid is fitted, it will raise the wrong corner. I number each solenoid with a corresponding number where it fits using a marker pen.

Il do it one at a time ,take pictures, and following the guide. What can happen if you muddle them up?

Gorra a full one sat in its plastic housing along with driver for £35 :rolleyes:

Either do the solenoids one at a time or carefully mark each one with the place it fits. All too easy to get them muddled.

Right , rebuild kit is on the way . Seems reasonable to understand, makes sense if it's leaks as it took ages to change heights when it was working

So with exhaust leaking while pump is running the diaphragm almost certainly needs doing. It was probably that failing that killed the old pump. Valve block has to come out to do it as the valve sits between the blocks highlighted below. The...

no white powder thankfully.

+1 on check for white powder - if there is the dryer is breaking down & either needs replacing, or new dessicant. Diaphragm leaking could be either dryer powder preventing it from closing, or a split in the diaphragm. Full valve block rebuild...

Any signs of white powder when you took the silencer off?

No, that is the air intake filter for the compressor.

I can feel air out of that also , put my finger on it and you can hear the air noise change. Thanks mate god send 👍 What's the best step from here ? Is it a rebuild of the valve block?

No that's the compressor inlet filter. The exhaust silencer (not filter - my bad) is at the back of the block. It just unscrews by hand.

After I installed I ran the car for 10 mins with the door open and still didn't rise , I took that off and I could feel air put my finger on the port it made a bit of suction.

Just to be sure you mean this right ?

Take the little exhaust filter out & check if there's air from the port while pump is running. If there is, then the diaphragm valve is leaking. That valve is on the same 12V that the pump uses, so it should engage together with the pump...

It was @brianp38dse I think. The injector head at the back of the pump can be done on engine and only undo the injector head piece until you can just see the oring. Any further and you run the risk of parts inside dropping out of position...

Might have been @backinblack that did the guide?

It was just the top seal on both mine but the diesel ran down and made it look like there were lots of leaks.