Recent content by Luke2025

Damn it, I completely forgot about that sierrafery… @Badger688 you will need to do at least 1 power bleed with a nanocom as I was half correct on my response, apologies!

I am interested but I don’t have £330 at the moment, so if you still got it after 25th then I’ll probably have it, no worries if not pal. Try ebay, you may get a bit more tbh.

That’s interesting, definitely gave me an idea there.. That does look good too! cheers.

Will get on that and have a look, cheers!

Righto, I’ll have a look about then, cheers!

Glad to hear that, not just me then! :)

That’s what I thought too be honest, I get an idea and really mull it over while deciding how I’d flesh it out without stopping to think “is this actually worth doing though?” ha, until now at least. I didn’t know a D1 tank was an option, the fuel pump looks different and I’m not sure the...

It’s plug and play mate, to bleed it you can just undo the banjo’s to modulator and pump the brake pedal to get fluid out then tighten them up and bleed the rest of the brakes as normal then job done. Or if you got a nanocom then use that for it all. Also to add, you probably know this but for...

Right so as some may know my D2 inside burned but quite salvageable it seems, I’ve decided to keep it alive and trayback-ish it but the tank is gone and so is all the rear half of the fuel lines, got a chassis wiring harness so that’s good. My question is, do I try to source a replacement tank...

I will say with the land rover compared to BMW, we have working indicators!!! lol. If all you drive is towing across a field and some road driving, what about a … toyo.. I can’t say it… Toyot … oh my this is difficult to say….. Toyota? LOL! Rav or land cruiser? A farmer round here runs about...

You need to pull that sill cover off and move the carpet cause I bet that’s a lot bigger than you think!!! Also that’s caused from water getting between the metal sheets in the wheel arch and seeping into the body as it’s only spot welded.

I’m also just going to throw it out there that the D2 body may be better than the D1’s but it’s by no means except, I know from experience first hand. So you either get a Jap import body which would be immaculate but then what’s the point in swapping it as chassis will be better too?! Or you get...

Honestly I’d be curious how the heck your going to get a body with all interior still there for not stupidly expensive money considering breakers can strip almost everything out to sell it…? I’d start with actually sourcing that, no point on the “how” if you can’t get the body.

A proper fix, replace entire loom or email a breaker to get the plug with some tail of wire and solder it back on. Failing those, zip ties? lol

Had this issue too, you’ll just have to pattern it the best you can and make a repair panel/patch to weld in. I’d get used to this cause if there ain’t an easy panel for it then it’s a diy job.