Recent content by KiwiTDI

I cant remember if its the top or bottom swivel bearing but one (i think the top) is different because the ABS sensor goes through it, obvnot a factor unless you have ABS

Thanks again, for a moment I thought I had not bought the right oil but then realised the 4 speed can use GM dexron2 compatible, phew. Penrite advise to only use the non synth (pure mineral) dexron in their range, so that is what I used. It’s a bit counter intuitive to NOT use the semi or full...

Thanks, its all back together now so can’t do the bolts but yes i bought 12 litres of dex3 and have about 7 litres left, so I have plans to drain/refill the sump in a 100km. I could not see the manual but I found a pdf online, but could not see an obvious reference to the valve that operates...

for the record all is well after a fluid and filter change. Getting the sump off on a tdi is a PITA due to the cross member preventing sump removal and LHS gearbox mount preventing access to the rear LHS sump bolt. By loosening the 4 gearbox mount bolts and jacking the box up it is possible to...

Yep TC (lock up side) could be worn out and given the hassle of replacing that (particularly getting TC parts at a reasonable price in nz…..) I want to give every possible “easy” fix a go before removing the gearbox etc. My knowledge of fixing auto boxes/ TC is minimal and I hope to keep it...

Some advice please. 1996 300tdi auto with mechanical injector pump. 360,000 km. No record of previous auto box work in service history. After a trouble free 4 week 4000 km trip around nz, during the last 200km I noticed that after reaching 76kmph (the usual lock up speed) the lock up clutch was...

Have you checked the coolant level? And if required topped it up in the correct way so as to remove any air in the heater circuit?

Who’s discovery was this…..go to 5 mins

I can see how the confusion can occur but whilst doing the HG job I removed the inlet and exhaust manifold and it was one of the studs holding those on (screwed into the aluminium head) that had been replaced by a bolt. The (non) leaks I referred to would be past the inlet/exhaust gasket.

On my car there are only cylinder head bolts, and all threads were good (in the block).

just did the HG on my 300tdi and a PO had used a bolt where a stud should have been and it stripped when I did the bolt up (only then did I realise it should be a stud). i fixed it by making a new stud out of a bolt, I made sure it had a longer thread than standard so it could engage with what...

Done 50km so far and no sign of pressurisation in the cooling system, so I guess no crack in the head, only time will tell if the HG will hold up. Some observations: 1) all valve clearances were non existent post new HG, suggesting the erling type HG ends up thinner than the MLS. 2) I buggered...

Its back together, too late to do a road test, coolant started leaking from the expansion tank cap after 15 mins on idle, but i am hoping that is because i brimmed the tank during adding coolant. i could not get it to start at first, but eventually worked out to turn the engine ( until the...

Well spotted, I meant 004’ but not 015’ it should read 0015’ in my prior post it was surprising how little torque on the single bolt was required to “bend” the head flat, just one hand on a short 1/2” drive wrench.

Sorry missed the question, but no I am not lapping the valves, I looked at one exhaust seat and it was perfect so I am leaving it as it is.