Recent content by Freddie17

Been busy all week ignoring it 👍

Must admit, I only worked it out after double-checking and spotting the OP’s signature !

Who is Mark!?! Cranking is the engine turning over before ‘firing’ and running… the ‘wer’ bit of Wer, wer, wer, wer, wer, wer, vroom! IIRC = If I Recall Correctly… If you watch the video I posted, it shows you the 3 wires. One is the 12v supply (you don’t want that one). One is the earth...

I have a spare one in my glove box, with an 8mm socket, just in case! If pushed, you can change it at the roadside (so I’m told 😉)

Probe it first and see if the signal looks correct, before ordering. IIRC, you are looking for something like 1-5v at cranking, but you’d need to check that. Mine was about 0.03!

I had starting issues on my F1, especially when the engine was warm. It would ‘crank’ but not ‘fire’ for prolonged periods. I bought a cheap cam sensor and it solved the issue. The ‘cheap’ sensor failed after about 6 months, so I then bought a decent one (lesson there for you)! It’s still going...

On an F1 TD4, I’d have gone for the camshaft sensor first, like I mentioned in post #16. A faulty one will give starting issues.

The reservoir has a filter in it that can get clogged over time. It’s good practice to change it at the same time, for peace of mind - they are not expensive.

Looks tidy 👍 Nice fixer-up

Have a look in this thread - covers a lot of it for you, with pics courtesy of @Arctic2. Do not start it before you have purged the air… have a read below; https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/p-a-s-problem.359168/#post-4857686

Assuming a F2 from your signature, you need to use the correct spec fluid - CHF202. You can easily cause damage to the power steering pump otherwise. Edit; And be sure to bleed it correctly if required - before starting it. They are very prone to damage caused by air in the system!

😂😂🤣🤣😂😂

Check the rear driveshafts/CV’s…? Can you replicate it if jacked up and spinning the wheel…?

You’ve checked there is nothing stuck in the tyre…? Edit; how certain are you that it is that wheel? Noises from underneath can be misleading as to which corner there are coming from (if indeed a corner at all… prop?)

Assuming all model years are the same (I believe they are), the rear driveshaft nuts on an F2 are 395Nm, or 291 lbf-ft. And you should use a new nut 😉 You still need a big torque wrench.