Recent content by finallysnapped
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I always thought to use it as well but apparently it's gone out of fashion.
I don't know if it's because components are different now.
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I was doing new pads and discs last week, the grease only needs to go on the sides of the pads where they touch the calliper.
Copper grease can damage the rubber or your pistons/ sliders etc.
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Thank you, I feel a lot more confident going to look at this with a clear mind now. Better to buy with the head than the heart.
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I’m looking at one tomorrow, how do I identify the later oil pump cover?
It’s a 2009 59 plate, should this have been fitted standard as it was the end of the run on this model?
Cheers.
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Or find someone breaking a Morris Marina
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Do the replacement belts and tensioners come under servicing, ie should they be on the service history of an 8 year old D3 or this advice from experience?
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New water pump, antifreeze, serpentine belt and tensioner.
And it all works!
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Ok everything is back together. No leaks, ran it up to temperature, everything is fine.
To torque the pulleys back on I put the old tensioner and belt on, pushed it in the opposite direction so it was tight and the wheels couldn't spin, tightened everything up then released and replaced...
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This is pretty fancy, sad I'm sitting here with the motor in bits instead of having a beer with you all.
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Removed dodgy water pump with a lot of help from the forum, had to buy some new tools for the job as well. I got a torque ratchet and viscous fan spanner.
Pick up the new water pump and belt tensioner tomorrow morning then stick it all back together.
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How can you **** over that?
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They didn't make 110's then
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I think the historic plates threw me.
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Something about this doesn't look right but I can't put my finger on it.
Land Rover Defender 110 for sale | LRO.com, UK