FEI's latest activity

How will you stop it rusting if it doesn't leak any oil?

The bearing can be pressed out of the hub with the right equipment like a 20 tonne press. Changing the whole hub is easier and if you are paying a mechanic probably not a lot more expensive given how much they charge per hour these days.

+1. It needs the Timken bearing which costs quite a lot. There was a replacement parts place in Birmingham that did an aftermarket hub with the Timken bearing but they're gone / been bought out.

+1 ^^^^^^ If the scratches are close to the dowel, I wouldn't worry about them.

I wouldn't worry too much. The most important bit is sealing around the fire rings, water and oil channels. In that order

Can you feel the gouges with your thumbnail? If you can't I'd say you're safe. If your nail catches on the gouge then I'd say you've introduced a weak point....

I'd be stripping that dodgy red stuff of that plug in your previous picture🤔

Yeah just follow the ARP instructions. Let it rest between torque stages too. The time you take to finish a beer is a good amount of rest time.

RAVE Manuals have all the diagrams, wire colours & pin numbers..

Ooh, Interested 🤨

We have tried to order height sensors from Island 4x4 multiple times with no luck. Either they just dont respond or they respond with no stock. Because of this we are busy developing a mod that will allow you to fit magnetic potentiometers that...

Don't worry about the staining, as long as it's not raised or dented but flat and checked with a straight edge to be found good you can rebuild it. 👍 If you start scrubbing and remove any metal at all you'll run the risk of a burn through or...

I've always had best results using Permatex on the valley gasket. Around the corner coolant passages both sides (as shown in post 119), but also a thin bead along the actual block where the rubber seals go. Also make sure you don't overtighten...

You need a dab of sealant where each end of the rubber strips wedge into the block

AN stands for army navy. Its a very universal usage fitting style developed by the americans in like 1930 i think to be field serviceable, reusable and not need any special tools to assemble. Most of the stuff is rated upto 1000psi and 260 deg...

So this whole story started with my engine oil cooler lines starting to weep oil where the rubber joins to the steel hoses. I had some AN8 bungs welded onto my engine and gearbox oil coolers and fitting some very nice looking lines. Then it kinda...

Just try and get as much of the crap out of the cylinders as you can. Obviously all the threads in the block. You can also flush the coolant passages with a hose pipe just to get some of the loose debris out.

Wipe out any fluids first, and then vacuum all the loose debris, especially around the piston rings. Check all the core plugs for rust & signs of leaks.

It's not complicated, you just have to remove the plastic trims at each end of the windscreen. The foam is a waste of time, I use perforated metal and add it to the ends that the foam doesn't cover.

Clean the heads first, and get a 24inch steel rule to check the heads. Then if you need to courier them for skimming, you can do the block while the heads are being sorted. Not sure if you stated your milage, but while you're in there, it might...

Yeah cylinder 8 bore actually looks fine form those new pictures. From the pictures it does not look like any of your liners have slipped either. You might have a coolant leak past the hg into your cylinders but its kinda hard to tell that from...

This is the hose I bought, hopefully it will last!

What silicone hose did you get? Reason im asking is im replacing it too but couldn't find fuel resistant silicone. Silicone degrades in contact with fuel so the hose needs some sort of liner inside it. I just ended up ordering a rubber one.

The great thing about the v8 is that a quick burst down the road and you're down below the filler neck. Any spilled evaporates nicely too. I had a hell of job getting all the diesel out of mine.

I was still in school 😂

Where were you 10 years ago!!

Bah. Aftermarket rubbish!

I know what your saying. My sons does have a vibration at around 70 so what I might do is drop the prop and see if it can be changed to phased or not. It may not be possible but I'll find out. 😊👍

Straight edge and feeler gauges should be enough. Make sure surfaces are clean using plastic edge or something softer than the metal so it doesn't scratch the surface. Clean with soft rag and solvent like diesel or petrol.

Thanks again all, your input is greatly appreciated. I'll get some better pictures in the morning, and I'll have a close look at no 8 to see if it's a crack.