FEI's latest activity

Fried thermoswitch.

You have to get it on a pallet, empty of all fluids, and strapped down, and when you're ready they send a courier to get it. Took about 24hrs I think. I had to rent an engine crane to get mine out, and you need a tall one too because of the...

I'd say do a compression test. If that's good, then just change the HG. It's mostly easy to do. If you've got no or low compression on multiple cylinders you're probably looking at a rebuild anyway and you can decide what to do then. Even just...

That's how it was explained to me by V8Developments. O rings at the top and bottom mean even if the block does crack, the coolant can't go anywhere, it just turns your dry liner block to a wet liner block. Add the additional clamping force from...

If top hats are done right, you've got a seal at the bottom of the liner and another at the top. In conjunction with ARP studs, i reckon you have a pretty bullet proof engine

The liners should have been lipped and ribbed when the engine was made, there was no technical reason not to, not even a cost reason, they just decided it wasn't needed

The flanged liners isnt something ive done yet, but the moment my engine gives me an excuse to rebuild it i will be fitting flanged liners. Probably the Darton Sleeves from Turner engineering.

Remember many of the nuts & bolts on the V8 heads & block are Imperial due to it's USA origin, so always check. The rest of the P38 is metric.

It was while i was testing the main engine cooling fan that i noticed that it would spin the AC condensor fans. It was after i noticed this that i made the decision to remove them.

Cool, what a burble👌😎

Yeah when i got my P38 it had a blown HG. It was a very small compression leak into atmosphere though with no pitting on the block or head, so i was very lucky in that regard. Fitted ARP headstuds and new elring gaskets. I fully agree with the...

When I rebuilt one of mine, I found the prev owner had overtightened the stretch bolts & damaged the block threads. Got the block helicoiled, and used Arp Studs. Much easier to torque the heads properly. The only downside is the cost is...

This was a very slippery mud hill, not thick mud just exceptionally slippery. Im pretty sure it was on that bounce that i ripped the engine mount. I probably bounced about a meter to the right. This was when i actually got up the obstacle.

It was an exceptionally fun trip. Extremely wet and lots of mud. So we left friday afternoon after work. Before leaving i filled my petrol tank. We drove to the fuel station nearest to our accomodaction and refilled again. Distance covered 264km...

Just turned the radio up

Just so BEEP long as it BEEP didn't annoy you BEEP very much BEEP

I have driven on bump stops with no damage to any other components. So who’s not listening/making excuses? J

Sounds like you need a better garage, given they fitted the exhaust badly. If the u-bolt was that close, the chances are Access Mode could also do the same damage with the EAS working. I cannot find a single instance in the 600,000 posts on...

These arrived today. When it stops raining, will fit them - assuming I don't need to get new cables as well..

+1 on that. Marty experimented creating a replacement EAS driver pack using modern solenoid hit-drop driver chips, etc. It worked, but did suffer gremlins & glitches. The plan was good, but if I remember he was too busy to complete the project.

Ergo, a badly fitted exhaust. In my early days of P38 ownership a long time ago, I suffered an EAS fault with a carvan on the hook whilst touring Yorkshire. No place to stop safely in heavy traffic, I did about 50 miles like that on the bump...

Yes I thought that as well. Ordered a pair & will see tomorrow. At least I can return them if they don't fit !!

If option 1 is nickel plated id take that. Its way less prone to corrosion issues than copper or brass

25sqmm is 4awg Just confirm the 25sqmm. Im abit unsure of that value. sqmm is millimetres squared or mm^2. Its just abit easier to type.

On the negative cable its 25sqmm if i remember correctly

If you are able to make a proper crimp on cable that size do not solder it. On large connections like that that see vibrations the solder forms micro cracks that are terrible for electrical connections. Rather put in some effort to keep moisture...

Check that it's not got green inside the clamp or you should get a new cable too ...

I think this is a 'horse for courses' discussion. EAS may have its advantages but, I don't need them and I definitely do not need its failure rate. The nearest I get to 'off road' is when I visit a car exhibition or a National Trust property. My...

Just abit of an update. Ive been running the new fan in the car since ive started this thread and it seems to be performing quite well. I dont have any actual numbers relating to fuel consumption because driving around town i quite like the...

If you unplugged the diaphragm valve(its the two pin connector that sits right next to the compressor) or something went wrong with its electrical connection you also wont build any preassure. The compressor will just be pumping back into atmosphere.