Recent content by Dickeylefrog
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thanks stumpy. Being a TD5 110 I think mine is even more expensive from Siemens but didn't want the Pfaff of replacing it with a Bearmach one only to have to do it again a short time later because it didn't perform or didn't last. sounds like you are happy so will probably do that.
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anyone replaced their OEM fuel pump with a Bearmach pump. Is it comparable or do I have to raid the piggybank for a Siemens one?
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hi guys, just replacing the front doors of my 110 TD5 and having painted and put them together I have found that the new doors dont have the lower mounting points for inner door panel. See pictures. I am assuming that they must have changed the design at some point though these doors are correct...
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Thanks guys. Had another idea. If I cut through the side to side strut that is over the fuel pump and take the hole back a bit further I can put in a new support from YRM under the floor at the rear edge if the hole. then if I get a chequer plate liner put that in the bed but cut a hole in it...
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Following this thread as I blew a fuel hose on my 110 on Friday. I dropped the tank and fixed it but decided to cut an inspection hatch for future use. I tried to cut so that I didnt cut through and lateral or front to back floor strengthening struts. What I ended up with gives me access to the...
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since fitting my rebuilt engine over a year ago I have had an annoying rattle that other TD5 drivers have noticed and have commented on many possible causes. The rattle isnt causing any problems with the engine running but I would like to get to the bottom of it. Today I used my new stethoscope...
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@Discodevon ive got the video in MP4 which is widely used but the forum doesnt include it on the file formats acceptable for upload. Can I message it to you?
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Ah its a Mov file and its huge. I will film it again on my phone
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Nope doesnt like the file type. Will mail it to my PC and try again
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Sorry some reason video did not upload any idea how to do it from an Ipad?
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Thanks @Discodevon im using 5w30 fully synthetic. The engine was a complete rebuild and the head was new (not recon) so I am using the recommended viscosity not something thicker. Do you think that might be the answer
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About two months after putting my engine back in after a-full rebuild and using an AMC head it started to be more rattly than usual, enough for other people to comment. The thing is as it hasnt seemed to effect performance over the last year I dismissed it as probably being a rattly idler...
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Found two marks on the CAV fuel pump spiggot when setting up my timing. One is the usual indentation but next to it is an F. My instinct is to use the indentation but I cant see anything that describes the timing mark in the Haynes and dont have the RAVE for 12P/19P engine so im not sure if it...