Recent content by BladeRob

Had a vibration on my 90 so today I removed the front prop and one of the UJs is worn out. Measured in-between the circlip grooves and it is 88mm (could be + or - .5mm as I measured with a ruler. To me, this seems to be too big for the 85mm UJ or is that about right?

Many years ago I was told when riding a bike to treat everyone like they are trying to kill you. Stood me in good stead over the years but seems more true in recent years! I'm sure the quality of driving is worse than it used to be...

Thanks for the replies - think I'm going to for a Parrot 3100.

I am looking for a hands free kit for a 2004 (facelift) Freelander but I can't find one. There are plenty for the pre-facelift. Can someone point me in the right direction please? Thanks, Rob

Just swapped the thermostat in mine as I thought it may be a contributory factor to the low MPG. Gauge is now bang half way, engine is now up to temp much quicker, heater noticeably warmer - fuel consumption, if anything a little better (but only just!)

Does anyone have a knackered heater control unit off a P38 waiting for the skip? I am after a heated front screen switch as mine was missing when I brought the car. Cheers, Rob

I am trying to understand how a more free flowing filter will make a difference 'off turbo' but not 'on turbo':) Sorry for hi-jacking the original post

Does an old and dirty air filter make no difference to performance when the turbo is on?

Engine rebuilds are more often though:eek:

I know its a bit different and the airflow is not forced, but on a bike when changing from a conventional filter to a K&N you definitely have to re-jet to get more fuel into the cylinder in order to maintain the correct mixture. I would of thought that any form of restriction is not desirable...

You will probably need to bleed the air out of the pipes, so yes. Also you will need to remove the pin & dti etc, tighten everything else up............

Pat, There are 3 bits of kit / tools - DTI, DTI adaptor and the timing pin. The DTI and adaptor are used together and the pin is used to lock the engine in the position that you will set the pump timing. Towards the end of the procedure, you do lock the engine with the pin similar to when you...

I'll have a stab at writing some instructions as I've just been through this myself.... Remove the inlet manifold etc to gain access to the pump. Turn the engine over clockwise by hand (22mm ring spanner on bottom pulley) until you can see the 1st lobe of the camshaft is just before...

Yes - Oil pressure is OK although I didn't get round to putting a gauge on it. I don't think there was any damage caused, it didn't run for very long with low pressure. Still on the hunt for more economy! - might go back to that thread now.... Thanks to everyone for the info / suggestions.

I am sure 3 bolts would be fine as long as they are tightened up. I should have said that I removed the ancillary pulley, but left the rest of the pulley (mass damper) on.