how to time fuel injection pump

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paddocks1967

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hi guy's i have now changed the pumps over,now i need to time the new pump,i have bought dti tool and timing tool as instructed by wammer's and seanmull,but haven't got a clue what to do with them,hopefully wammer's or sean will put me in the picture,or any body else. cheer's pat.
 
paddocks1967 said:
hi guy's i have now changed the pumps over,now i need to time the new pump,i have bought dti tool and timing tool as instructed by wammer's and seanmull,but haven't got a clue what to do with them,hopefully wammer's or sean will put me in the picture,or any body else. cheer's pat.
Click to expand...

I'll have a stab at writing some instructions as I've just been through this myself....

Remove the inlet manifold etc to gain access to the pump.

Turn the engine over clockwise by hand (22mm ring spanner on bottom pulley) until you can see the 1st lobe of the camshaft is just before vertical (looking through the oil filler).

Remove the bolt from the centre of the pump (in the middle of the fuel pipes) and put the dti tool in the centre of the pump. Set the dti at about mid stroke.

Turn the engine over whilst watching the dti and zero the dti at the lowest point. (On mine this point corresponded to the timing pin 8mm section dropping in a hole in the flywheel).

Slowly turn the engine clockwise until the 12mm section of the pin drops into a hole in the flywheel. On the way round it might seem to drop into or hit other obstructions (holes or bolt heads?) but it is the point at which the 12mm diameter drops into the hole that you want. I would recommend having a practice and finding this point first before doing the actual measurement.
If you overshoot the hole, go back too far and come at it again in the clockwise direction (remove backlash).

The dti reading that you are after is 0.9 (I think according to the book) but I found starting to be difficult when set to this so I ended up at 1mm as recommended by ?? (cant remember - sorry) in another post.

If adjustments are required, the diesel pipes should be slackened first to avoid them getting stressed. The 2 bolts holding the pump to the engine should be slackened and also 1 at the bottom that is a support for the back of the pump. Don't slacken the bolts too much, as this can result in false readings.

When making adjustments in order to avoid backlash, always make the last movement of the pump towards the engine.

As I learned - don't forget to remove the spanner from the bottom pulley!!

Have I forgotten anything?
 
BladeRob said:
I'll have a stab at writing some instructions as I've just been through this myself....

Remove the inlet manifold etc to gain access to the pump.

Turn the engine over clockwise by hand (22mm ring spanner on bottom pulley) until you can see the 1st lobe of the camshaft is just before vertical (looking through the oil filler).

Remove the bolt from the centre of the pump (in the middle of the fuel pipes) and put the dti tool in the centre of the pump. Set the dti at about mid stroke.

Turn the engine over whilst watching the dti and zero the dti at the lowest point. (On mine this point corresponded to the timing pin 8mm section dropping in a hole in the flywheel).

Slowly turn the engine clockwise until the 12mm section of the pin drops into a hole in the flywheel. On the way round it might seem to drop into or hit other obstructions (holes or bolt heads?) but it is the point at which the 12mm diameter drops into the hole that you want. I would recommend having a practice and finding this point first before doing the actual measurement.
If you overshoot the hole, go back too far and come at it again in the clockwise direction (remove backlash).

The dti reading that you are after is 0.9 (I think according to the book) but I found starting to be difficult when set to this so I ended up at 1mm as recommended by ?? (cant remember - sorry) in another post.

If adjustments are required, the diesel pipes should be slackened first to avoid them getting stressed. The 2 bolts holding the pump to the engine should be slackened and also 1 at the bottom that is a support for the back of the pump. Don't slacken the bolts too much, as this can result in false readings.

When making adjustments in order to avoid backlash, always make the last movement of the pump towards the engine.

As I learned - don't forget to remove the spanner from the bottom pulley!!

Have I forgotten anything?
Click to expand...

You just left two things out. Wash hands and make a brew. Job done.
 
paddocks1967 said:
thanks for the replies guy's,just need to get my head round them instruction's,you mention the dti tool,what about the other timing tool what do i do with that,cheer's pat.
Click to expand...

paddocks1967 said:
when you put the pin in the flywheel are you not locking the engine up again,like as before removing the pump,pat.
Click to expand...

Pat,

There are 3 bits of kit / tools - DTI, DTI adaptor and the timing pin. The DTI and adaptor are used together and the pin is used to lock the engine in the position that you will set the pump timing.

Towards the end of the procedure, you do lock the engine with the pin similar to when you did prior to removing the pump.

Rob
 
Last edited:
iirc rave talks of spinning the engine over before tightening the fuel lines again if you've adjusted. Is that not necessary?
 
jonbill said:
iirc rave talks of spinning the engine over before tightening the fuel lines again if you've adjusted. Is that not necessary?
Click to expand...

You will probably need to bleed the air out of the pipes, so yes.

Also you will need to remove the pin & dti etc, tighten everything else up............
 
jonbill said:
iirc rave talks of spinning the engine over before tightening the fuel lines again if you've adjusted. Is that not necessary?
Click to expand...

Follow the instructions in RAVE to the letter. The spinning of engine before tightening fuel lines refers to pipes on injectors, pipes on pump should be tight. As fuel emerges from pipe at injector tighten union. Engine will start at some point in this procedure.
 
another question guys,
about this DTI gauge there are 2 dials on this, one large outside dial that has readings from zero round to zero. going clockwise in multiples of 10. underneath that there is another number that says 90, ie 10 =90 20=80 etc. on the small dial, the numbers zero to zero, anticlockwise reading zero 1,2,3 etc. when i press the bar the large dial needle does full rotation clockwise for the small needle to go anticlockwise to 1. how do i read this ?
it says in the manual to check readings, engines with less than 20,000km = 0.95mm +- 0.02mm(0.4+-0.01in)
engines with more than 20,000km = 0.90mm +- 0.02m(0.035 +-0.001in)
what does this mean ?
also the manual says to preload the gauge by 2mm how do i do this ?

sorry for all the questions as i havent seen one of these gauges before and i have no idea how to work it.

cheers,
Pat.
 
paddocks1967 said:
another question guys,
about this DTI gauge there are 2 dials on this, one large outside dial that has readings from zero round to zero. going clockwise in multiples of 10. underneath that there is another number that says 90, ie 10 =90 20=80 etc. on the small dial, the numbers zero to zero, anticlockwise reading zero 1,2,3 etc. when i press the bar the large dial needle does full rotation clockwise for the small needle to go anticlockwise to 1. how do i read this ?
it says in the manual to check readings, engines with less than 20,000km = 0.95mm +- 0.02mm(0.4+-0.01in)
engines with more than 20,000km = 0.90mm +- 0.02m(0.035 +-0.001in)
what does this mean ?
also the manual says to preload the gauge by 2mm how do i do this ?

sorry for all the questions as i havent seen one of these gauges before and i have no idea how to work it.

cheers,
Pat.
Click to expand...

Second setting for vehicles over 20,000 Km is to allow for chain stretch. Get engine at 90 degrees BTDC cam lobe vertical. Screw DTI adaptor into pump. Slacken clamp screw on DTI holder and push DTI in until it reads 2mm on small dial. Tighten clamp. That is it preloaded. Turn engine slowly until outer needle stops moving. Then zero outer bezel, so large needle points to zero. Turn engine slowly until lock pin drops into place, take reading from outer bezel where needle has come to rest. If your vehicle has done more than 20,000Km it should be at .90mm + or - 0.02mm, Each division on outer scale is 0.01 mm. If it is not, turn pump until it is, last movement always towards engine.
 
hi,wammer's,you dont have a picture of the way the dti gauge and adaptor should look prior to screwing it into the pump,you mention that to preload the gauge you clamp it with a screw,all i seem to have are two parts that can screw together,one has a screw on it,and two different bar's that can screw onto the dail gauge after you take the wee screw off the end of the plunger,cheers pat.
 
paddocks1967 said:
hi,wammer's,you dont have a picture of the way the dti gauge and adaptor should look prior to screwing it into the pump,you mention that to preload the gauge you clamp it with a screw,all i seem to have are two parts that can screw together,one has a screw on it,and two different bar's that can screw onto the dail gauge after you take the wee screw off the end of the plunger,cheers pat.
Click to expand...

That's all you need, use long probe if you use joined adaptors, short one if you only use one. Make sure with probe screwed into DTI and pushed through adaptor that there are no binds and DTI returns freely. Where the DTI goes into the adaptor there should be a pinch screw to lock it in place.
 
Last edited:

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Right i take it what you have is pictured above. RH one is where DTI is located. The knurled screw is for locking the DTI in place. It has a 10 mm (use as required) thread adaptor screwed on to it. One on left is an extension for one on right. That has a 12 mm (use as required) thread adaptor screwed onto it. You may only need the left hand one, if so use the short probe. If you need to use the extension use the long probe.
 
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