It was easy for me cos I was using a 4 post lift but unless you're very very skinny I doubt you'd get under it. Maybe jacking it up and using axle stands is an option.
Had that go on mine and a slight wake up call from a small hammer got it going enough to get me to the local indi garage who fortunately had one in stock along with a spare ramp for me to chuck it on.
Hospital rang yesterday to say all my test results are fine even blood test cancer count low. So as a reward took the old gal for a spin onto the Pennines and called for a spot of pub lunch. :) :)
My guess is they're the heights the car estimates for each corner given sensor voltages and once you input the true values it adds or subtracts that figure to give the correct height.
Reservoir pressure is a little low but that should go back up again. Compressor may have shut down due to temperature but should restart when it's cooled down. I don't think those heights matter too much. Have you re measured each corner after...
Did you put the measured values in from the wheel centers to the arch for each corner?
The rim size would only matter if your tool tells you to measure from the rim.
I'm no eggspurt on these beasts, just read the manual a few times and being an engineer for over 40 years gives you a certain perspective when tracing faults.
Pretty sure they all need power to pass the light through. The light only goes in one direction in a loop so if it's going to the screen but not out (unless bypassed) then that has to be the problem. There is something in the manual that says new...
With my diag tool you enter the measured values and the car works out the rest so the chart is just for reference. Unless you fiddle the measured values to compensate of course.
Can't check at the moment cos my height chart is in the garage and it's dark outside lol. But from memory you need to be looking at 495 mm wheel centre to bottom of arch front and 485 mm wheel centre to arch rear , wheel size doesn't matter.
You need to calibrate the suspension. The height sensors are a variable resistor so the car needs some reference points to level up. Once you've inputted the actual heights the ECU should take care of the rest.
According to the diagram the amp to the screen is bi-directional so yes maybe the amp is not turning the screen on. If indeed it is supposed to but I have no idea on that one.
Does the screen show any of the other functions like suspension or settings or is it completely dead?
I had my screen go off once when I first got it but it came back after ignition off and on again.
just re-read your reply, yes, if i loop the screen, then i get signal to the rear, i might just put the old Amp back in, as i wasn't sure if the amp is also hard wired to the screen, so if it's faulty maybe it's not allowing the optical signal...