backinblack's latest activity

2.7PSI ain't gonna lift a bicycle let alone one of those :-) Not sure there's too much in it between the iCarSoft and Launch but it will depend on which ones of course. I've got a few different ones. The compressor should be running, I don't...

If you can run the compressor (either with diagnostics or simply apply 12V to it), and monitor the pressure sensor. If you can get some air in the system, get some soapy water & look for leaks. Also have a read of these docs to understand how...

Stick a volt meter across the compressor supply to see if any voltage is being applied.

That's AI for you. It doesn't know the amp is already in the boot. You said there is no signal to the amp so if you put the loop bypass on the screen do you then get it at the amp?

I would agree with you if the compressor temp was warm as it would be feeding a leak. I don't believe the car looks at pressure from the pump, only the pressure in the tank./system. So my guess is that the pump is either not running when the ECU...

Your compressor is cold at 13 degrees C so you need to see why it's not running. The last image says there's no increase in pressure when it should be filling up. Again pointing at the compressor.

BTW the blue dotted line in the diagram shows the order and direction of the signal.

I will check the power supply to the screen this evening and post up the results, thanks for your input buddy, much appreciated, just hope i find something wrong,

It does sound like a screen issue. Have you got power to the screen? There may be more than one power connection but I don't know. Got some stuff to do so won't be around for a few hours.

When you loop something out it just bypasses that unit so the light signal will still continue to the next one following the ring. You may need more than one loopback cable.

You may not have all this components but this is from RAVE 2007 - 2010

What did you disconnect and did you put a loopback on the plug you disconnected?

Scrap what I said. Blonde moment. Light on the left is correct as is the light on the button flashing when turned. Perhaps a more recent scan would help. I would still suspect the compressor first but it could also be a leaky airbag or pretty...

Looks like it's in fault so that needs clearing. Maybe try a different LR specific diag tool.

Not sure how this will help you but anything is worth a try :) If the light is on on the raise lower button and stays on when pressed it won't do anything as it is fault mode. A faulty ride height sensor would show as a fault. Is the car at...

Thanks for your input. Will be removing it again and sending to Valve Bodies UK for a refurb.

I hear where you're coming from but they aren't cheap cars to run and maintain. A cheap end car is unlikely to have been maintained. Has the diff oil ever been changed? What about the gearbox oil? The oil isn't cheap!! A re-con box starts at 4k...

There’s no longer such a thing as a Sonnax valve body assembly. I would suggest that you send your worn unit to someone like Valve Bodies UK http://www.valvebodyuk.co.uk/ or STA Aylesbury https://www.staautogearbox.co.uk/ who own a Hydra-Test...

Mine was refurbished by a fairly local gearbox specialist around 6 years ago for £1.5k including TC.

Not LED! Fixed - the earth wire was cracked in the loom and causing the issue.

I guess if it's just mechanical/bodywork repairs then go for it. If it has electrical gremlins run away.

I know nothing about that engine but this is from the manual. Hope it helps.

Have you tried contacting them directly.

If they are LED have you got the polarity the right way round?

I was quoted around £320 per key for the non flip 2005 key. Around £260 was the key the rest was pairing it up to the car. Got one from local indi and paired it myself.

I’ve also found a Dremel with a flex-head and cutting disc to be very helpful with bolt removal in tighter spaces

Don't see why not if access is good.

Don't see why not if access is good.