Can't definitively identify the 2 fault codes above.
ABS ECU is bolted onto the ABS Modulator and the block contains the solenoids for the valves too. 3 x Torx bolts hold it on and it looks like it can be changed in the vehicle without loss of...
So, checked ABS fault codes and have C1154 and C1148.
Haven't had a chance to check them out yet but could ABS have a fault that is putting brakes ON ?? Presumably it can.
Is the ABS ECU part of the modulator ?
Maybe electronics and not...
Yes will do. Needs a fluid change anyway.
Just looked at the pedal, servo and master cylinder mechanical arrangement. The pedal and servo push rod connect all the way through. The master cylinder however does not connect to the servo push rod...
I thought that but because it is so infrequent and because discs get hot and drums do less braking and therefore less hot, I can't say if all 4 brakes are staying on intermittently or just fronts. Obvs if it happens again I will be doing more...
OK. This is going to be impossible to diagnose logically as I did 400 miles yesterday with no fault. Did plenty of roadside checks and also rolling tests to see if the brakes were still off.
So, please comment if you see a flaw in my argument...
Yes John. I serviced all the caliper mech and renewed one pin as it was a bit bent. All slides nicely. New calipers.
The thing that is making me think it is not caliper related is that all is fine for several hundred miles, then one brake...
So a hot brake last week. A pair of new calipers and pins and all bled and tested. Cool with no brake application. Even warmth with gentle brake application. What could possibly go wrong ??
Went to the coast today, not sure why!! On way back...
I find an AF imperial 15/16 inch spanner at 23.8mm is the best fit for the amount of torque to move tensioner and the thin head on the bolt that can be chewed easily.
Twas the day for my fleet to test my patience today.
Whilst out in the Sport a van passed me and I thought " wow his brakes smell hot". After he had passed for some while I could still smell it. Stopped and drivers side front wheel was a tad on...
2 x large washers for each side and obvs the nuts too. I had to cut the old bolt and drill and punch out the sections in the hub. Get new nuts and bolts for the subframe end while at it. I have a diagram with part numbers somewhere. Will look.
If it is a TD4 main thing is not to use impact gun on pulley bolt or you may shatter the cast crankshaft.
There is an angular tightening procedure. I just do it tight !!
Use the castle shaped locking tool on the pulley as getting it undone is...
All Freelander 1 steering wheels that I have seen are the same size splines.
Leather or plastic and different colours. TD4 has a weight in it to reduce vibration.
Can't say on aftermarket ones. Wouldn't want to delete Airbag, it has saved too...
On the air con pressure sensor plug, pin 1 and 3 give a 5V reference signal. Pin 3 is positive.
For the clutch to operate you need at least 1 volt between pins 1 and 2. Pin 2 is positive..
I don't know what pressure this represents.
Let me...
Must be something else not connected. You said Delphi could switch clutch on and off, does the clutch operate now?? If the refrigerant is low pressure the clutch will not operate.
Just a process of checking it through and find out what signals...
VCU tight. Do the one wheel up test. I jad one sounded like I was being followed by a lorry. Tight VCU gives strange wear patterns on rear tyres too as they hop about.