Recent content by andydsIII

same here, £114 fully comp using their classic car quick quote, good system if you havent got any NCB for additional vehicles as they just use years held licence

i found that it worked better for me if you backed all the adjusters off, then bled as above, then adjusted the brakes, the only reason i tried it this way was because with the adusters backed off the cylinders should be fully compressed and therefore reduce the chances of trapping any air in...

i did exactly the same last weekend, with a paddocks exhaust, it seems to fit really nicely, mine does feel tight as well but just put it down to new rubber hangers, should there be more movement ? mine doesnt seem to be stressed at any point with enough movement (i think) , but then i dont...

I had been having similar probs to you, i also have a servo (with dual line) system, now that they work (sorted today) they are great and compared to non servo brakes are far superior imo, i dont know of any inherent probs with the servo's but i think you can get a service kit for them, if you...

I have brakes!! after putting up with this for too long, and having looked at this problem on and off with no fix, i started from the beggining today with checking the springs and shoes (both correct, although wear on the shoes seem uneven) i then fully backed off the brake adjusters on each...

so i presume if i remove the 2 bolts that secure the master cylinder to in my case the servo i will be able to access/adjust the length of the rod? is this achievable without having to break into the hydraulics (sick of bleeding them!) cheers Andy

I am having the same problem on my SWB S3, having to double press the pedal, new cylinders, pipes, shoes, etc.. i have checked all the springs and they are ok, and that i have the correct shoes for front and rear, and i have checked there is a decent vacum going to servo, but i dont know...

I have obviously touched on a sensitive issue, maybe others have told you similar in the past? I admit partial fault by retorting to your innapropriate comments and i understand that you now feel the need to try and raleigh support with anyone that may care to listen as you wouldnt want to lose...

cheers for that, i have family that live nearby, sounds like an excuse for a visit, £140 is quite reasonable as well, regards Andy D

???? Maybe you forgot what prompted my reply, when you asked "why a SS exhaust though the PTO", i replied "why not and to be different", both question and answer where reasonable and valid, so to get a reply of: "i was gonna answer yer 'why not?' till i got to the " chequer plate throughout"...

Good point, maybe that's another project, but i did a 'restore to original' on a RR classic, and when having to make the choice about selling either my landie or the rangie, well, no contest!:D

ahh i see, i need to rectify my aspirations of how i want my landie to be, can i make mine just like yours please........................now what does an patronising, ignorant fart want from a Landie, can you let me know

to which i say why not! But really, my exhaust has started blowing, now the easy option would be to replace with standard (full system being less than £50) but if i wanted it to look like everyone else's i wouldn't have metallic paint, a bikini hood, chequer plate throughout and a plethora of...

Ive had a quick look in the usual places for SS Exhausts for a petrol series 3 SWB but cant find any, does anyone know of anyone that does them? if not the full system maybe just the rear silencer. on the same theme i was thinking about re-routing the exhaust so it exits through the PTO hole...

I bought my S3 with a hardtop, within a month i had got all the bits for a full tilit conversion (think i spent about £120 in total) so on it went, had to compromise on the canvas though to keep the price down (its an ex MOD one so no side windows, you can poke an SLR through the gunports...