My old 90 2.5TD went off to Canada! edit - or at least thats what the buyer said at the time. BUT, I've just checked and its taxed until next tear :clap2::clap2::clap2: Fantastic that old Natalie is still with us :)

One friend in the D2B club had his rear lamp guards nicked during that downpour :mad: And another friend who is a trader says he always sleeps on the stand there because theft is such a problem. Its just ridiculous there these days!

Before wiring up anything you need to consider what size cables you need. Think back to ye olde skool days - ohms law :) amps = watts/volts You've mentioned fitting 2 lamps, so lets assume they're both 55W each. amps = 110/12 amps = 9.1 so call it 10A If you fit 4x 55W (or 2x 100W) then...

I've (hopefully) just cured a very similar problem. Battery apparently not charging fully but no warning light on. I also suspected the alternator, however I had intermittent power steering failure last weekend - and when the PAS failed the charge warning lamp came on. So, the link pointed to...

I read that about replacing the motor, but as I said earlier, it involves breaking various plastic mouldings/parts of the case. I wasn't convinced I could reseal it satisfactorily and I didn't want to do the job twice (on one door anyway!). huddy - yes mate, you need to remove the glass and...

Fit one of those oil drain kits (can't remember the name sorry!) Basically you screw a valved adaptor into the sump replacing the drain plug - when you want to drain the oil, you screw the hose onto the adaptor which pushes the valve open and the oil flows down the hose. When you've finished...

Or you could use 300Tdi bits - www.discovery2.co.uk / Disco 1 CDL into a Disco 2

I'd agree, something is breaking the permanent 12v supply. Either a loose wire/connector to the back of the radio or maybe a loose battery lead?

For us its easy - we're sick and tired of dealing (read as fighting) with Live Promotions. We're concentrating on Eastnor, Ripley Castle and we'll now give this new one a go. As inferred previously, we also regularly attend the Adventure Overland shows as a club as well. To be quite frank...

Thanks for the headsup Tom - I passed the link on to my fellow committee members and we'll be having a club stand (DDLRC). I couldn't make it to the Overland show earlier but our members who went said they thoroughly enjoyed it, so a big thumbs up from us :5bcheers2:

+1 IMHO you'll get more interest and most likely a lot more cash for it by selling it as standard and selling the toys separately.

Just for info in case anyone reads this in the future, the 10P engine had no EGR cooler/heat exchanger, the later 15P as fitted to facelift D2s had it fitted as standard. Of course, being a landrover, you'll need to check the engine serial number to be certain of what you've got as engine...

Just a footnote to this, as there was a reference to yellowed/faded lamp lenses - you can polish them back to clear brilliance. I did this on my old volvo a few years back with a DA polisher and a couple of goes with progressively finer cutting compound. The headlamps were just a bit hazed but...

The aux lighting on the D2 is controlled via the BCU, and frankly its a crock of.... The relays for the lighting in the BCU are underspec'd and frequently fail - most of the D2s that you see with only one fog lamp working do not have faulty bulbs - its that damn BCU that is the problem. The...

My understanding is that its to do with the motor. The unit is built up using plastic rivets and melted joints, so its nigh on impossible to do a satisfactory repair. They are expensive mate, which is why most people get secondhand units - mine are all secondhand and have been fine. You need to...

Most of the switch illumination is via LEDs soldered onto the switch board - you need to take them apart and solder on replacement LEDs to fix them. Following pic nicked from another site The heater controls are illuminated by a couple of bulbs behind the panel. IIRC you remove the knobs...

It sounds like its the door lock itself mate. Common problem, I've had to change all mine, you can't repair them unfortunately so its a case of buying new or a finding good used one. PITA to change too - the window and frame has to come out to get access :(

You'll need to look at the back of the old & new wheels - the wheel spec will be cast into the alloy like this - (from a 'style 3' D2 alloy) The 57 is the offset - you should be able to tell what the difference is between your two wheels and thus the spacer required HTH

Have you hooked up a diagnostics unit while its misbehaving? Might be worth comparing cold/hot live readings even if there is no fault recorded.

Doesn't that Carroll (?) chap from LRM use a tent on the back of his HCPU sometimes?