Worn engine mount bushes

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WLJayne

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Derpyshurr
Hey guys,

Assuming that I can get this 1.8 engine happy or drop a replacement in, I reckon that the bushes are fecked as this engine is far louder than it should be and I can feel vibration through the car.

Does anyone have part numbers for new ones, or polybush ones would be even better. Any general tips to smooth it out a bit? After the gasket niggle my next mission is noise reduction and this would take a big chunk out of it I hope.

Will.
 
If you want to reduce the transmission of noise and vibration, polybushes are not the way to do it. Stick with standard OE parts.
 
hey up wayne, why dont you have the engine out of my 135 tf?

rebuild that rather than yours? you can keep yours on the road in the meantime and then you have a good engine to slip into it. With the hotter cams etc
 
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If you want to reduce the transmission of noise and vibration, polybushes are not the way to do it. Stick with standard OE parts.

I suppose that makes sense, rubber is soften than PU so will absorb more. The OE ones should be good for a few years :).
 
OK I've been reading around R75 forums and it seems that powerflex can make replacement PU bushes in varying hardness for the K series. Trouble is I don't know what to ask for! As far as I can tell the engine is mounted via the hydramount, the upper engine bracket and the lower engine steady. Have I missed anything? Of those parts (and any I missed) are there any bushes that I could replace with PU ones?
 
OK I've been reading around R75 forums and it seems that powerflex can make replacement PU bushes in varying hardness for the K series. Trouble is I don't know what to ask for! As far as I can tell the engine is mounted via the hydramount, the upper engine bracket and the lower engine steady. Have I missed anything? Of those parts (and any I missed) are there any bushes that I could replace with PU ones?

The Poly lower tie bar bush needs to be modified or it will transfer to much engine noise into the cabin. I'll do a how to guide on the subject when I get a chance.
But this is what they look like after modification.
 

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Bugger that's annoying :(. So am I right in thinking that the engine is secured at 3 points then?

Could you get something like a 60 shore A polybush? Surely that wouldn't be too hard as to transmit all the noise that a 90A would?
 
Bugger that's annoying :(. So am I right in thinking that the engine is secured at 3 points then?

Could you get something like a 60 shore A polybush? Surely that wouldn't be too hard as to transmit all the noise that a 90A would?

I've added a pic to my previous post. It's not the Shore rating that's the problem with the Poly bush but the shape. The way they are made dictates a simple shape which then needs final finishing on a lathe. This is expensive so to keep costs down the shapes are simple. If you don't mind some extra finishing at home then you can make them work well. The engine is held at 3 points. There is a hydro mount at each end which takes the weight of the engine/gearbox assembly and a lower tie bar that stops it rocking forward and backward. It's this that takes all the torque loadings!!
 
I've added a pic to my previous post. It's not the Shore rating that's the problem with the Poly bush but the shape. The way they are made dictates a simple shape which then needs final finishing on a lathe. This is expensive so to keep costs down the shapes are simple. If you don't mind some extra finishing at home then you can make them work well. The engine is held at 3 points. There is a hydro mount at each end which takes the weight of the engine/gearbox assembly and a lower tie bar that stops it rocking forward and backward. It's this that takes all the torque loadings!!

Ah that's very interesting! So why do the channels make a difference then :)? Is that the only polybush that would be needed or are there others too?
 
Ah that's very interesting! So why do the channels make a difference then :)? Is that the only polybush that would be needed or are there others too?

In answer to your first question. The channels have been let into the surface to help reduce the amount of Poly in contact with the tie bar. This is done to reduce low amplitude higher frequency vibrations. If you look at the ends of the mount you will notice they have been radiused and reduced in length so when the bush is bolted up it is'nt clamped tight. The un modified bush transfers lots of large aptitude low frequency vibration through the sides where it's clamped in place, hence the mods. If you look at the standard rubber bush you will notice that it's a sphere so damps out most vibration but also allows lots of movement''
The answer to the second question is. Only the tie bar needs a Poly bush in the large end. The other hydro mounts are fine and generally don't fail.
Here are a couple of pics of the standard Poly bush. The 1st is the correct one for the Freelander. The idea is to make it look more like the second picture which is for a Rover 75 but sadly it doesn't fit the Freelander but the shape is spot on for the task!!
 

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Awesome, thanks Nodge :)!!

I've just thought. There is an upper tie bar that uses the same bush. It's mounted onto the engine upper hydro mount. They don't take much torque so last well but I is possible to fit the same Poly bush in there too but it does make more vibration so I leave them with the standard rubber bush.
 
Nodge, would you reccomend the yellow or orange one for the 1.8 hippo :)? Payday today so I'm finally going to buy it :D!
 
Yep I just ordered the yallar one as it's from a known good brand :).

That's why I use em ;) You could try fitting it as supplied to see if you can tolerate the vibration. I fitted an un-modded yellow one to my 180 but hated feeling the engine vibrate the floor so I carried out the mod to the red one I showed earlier in the thread before using that instead. I've yet to mod the yellow bush so haven't fitted it to my V6 yet.
 
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