Project Freelander

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G13SJC

G13SJC

New Member
Posts
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Location
Nuneaton, Warwickshire
I was asked to share my progress so here goes:-

Scenario:-

R Reg (1998) Freelender 1.8 bought for £550 with loss of compression (suspect HGF), broken mirror, missing fog light, go flat overnight tyres and small scrapes and dings.

Bashed mirror was replaced with a pair of later spec power folding mirrors - the lower locating shaft is larger and so the door skin was drilled to 13mm. (The pair were cheaper than a single replacement as both motors are duff :D )

Head removed to change gasket and for general inspection - a good clean up should suffice :p
 

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Query:-

Is this the correct cap for the expansion tank? (Ratchet type - it does click when overtightened)


Also does anyone know if the engine (whats left of it) can be removed without disturbing the IRD and PG1? (Prepared to get flamed here, but there does appear to be a few inches between water pump pulley and subframe) Is it possible??

Thanks

Steve
 

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G13SJC said:
Query:-

Is this the correct cap for the expansion tank? (Ratchet type - it does click when overtightened)


Also does anyone know if the engine (whats left of it) can be removed without disturbing the IRD and PG1? (Prepared to get flamed here, but there does appear to be a few inches between water pump pulley and subframe) Is it possible??

Thanks

Steve
Click to expand...

that is the later type expansion cap and should click when tightened.

yes you can get the engine out and leave the gearbox and IRD in place.

Take off the PAS pump, crank pulley, alternator, air con compressor and all brackets, this will give you enough space to pull the engine off the box, put a jack under the bell housing and jack up the gearbox.

its easier now you've got the head off, all i do is lift the engine by the timing belt and yank it off the gearbox
 
clutchdust said:
that is the later type expansion cap and should click when tightened.

yes you can get the engine out and leave the gearbox and IRD in place.

Take off the PAS pump, crank pulley, alternator, air con compressor and all brackets, this will give you enough space to pull the engine off the box, put a jack under the bell housing and jack up the gearbox.

its easier now you've got the head off, all i do is lift the engine by the timing belt and yank it off the gearbox
Click to expand...

Thanks Matey - you are a star!!
 
clutchdust said:
that is the later type expansion cap and should click when tightened.

yes you can get the engine out and leave the gearbox and IRD in place.

Take off the PAS pump, crank pulley, alternator, air con compressor and all brackets, this will give you enough space to pull the engine off the box, put a jack under the bell housing and jack up the gearbox.

its easier now you've got the head off, all i do is lift the engine by the timing belt and yank it off the gearbox
Click to expand...


He's ****in good int he;)
 
Updated pics:-

(Car was finished over the bank holiday and was taxed on 1st Sept:D )

Engine removed leaving gearbox and IRD unit in place. Thanks for helpful advice on this forum :)
 

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Rebuilt engine loaded onto newly purchased engine lifter. Previous engine removals had been completed using beams of garage roof :eek:

Note blanking caps used to prevent ingress of water and small parts!!

Pity I forgot to paint the oil filter housing :(
 

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G13SJC said:
Updated pics:-

(Car was finished over the bank holiday and was taxed on 1st Sept:D )

Engine removed leaving gearbox and IRD unit in place. Thanks for helpful advice on this forum :)
Click to expand...
YEP pleased at last ta see a happy chappy, make ah reet change ,ad some real doom und gloom in here recent. . . .:)
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
it looks good. yu done a good job.
Click to expand...

Cheers guys :)

I've done a few k series swaps and so am lucky to have the right tools. That engine lifting bracket was ex Rover and was a right bargain!!

Mondo - taking it easy, had her up to 4 k and fitted my K&N off my rover. Makes a nice roar :)

Ming - guess im just happy coz the car was at the right price. In all fairness anything can be fixed for the right cash.

Just need to get the tracking checked as the rears have worn on the inside edges.

Then when cash permits may buy a stainless exhaust and polybush kit.
 
Out of interest, how much did you spend, and what do you think its market value is now?

Definately consider the polybushes, stiffer handling helps the Freelander stick to the road and removes that wallowy feeling.

Cheers

Blippie
 
G13SJC said:
Engine on its way in - These bloody hippo's are tall ;)
Click to expand...

Easy when you have a crane/hoist

Can the engine be dropped from the engine bay with jacking the vehicle up high? Then withdrawing the engine block with a pallet truck or trolley

German MGF enthusiasts have done this for the MGF,
 
Blippie said:
Out of interest, how much did you spend, and what do you think its market value is now?

Definately consider the polybushes, stiffer handling helps the Freelander stick to the road and removes that wallowy feeling.

Cheers

Blippie
Click to expand...

Purchased for £550. Spent £273 to get the engine running. Prob spent £1000 all in as I have fixed a few other issues such as central locking, mirrors and missing platics.

I have bought the polybush kit, just need to find some time (and dry weather to fit)

I have also just spent £400 on stainless side runners and Stainless A frame which is all fitted now.
 
G13SJC said:
Cheers guys :)

Mondo - taking it easy, had her up to 4 k and fitted my K&N off my rover. Makes a nice roar :)
Click to expand...


Nice one mate!;) :D and cheers fer updating us It's nice to hear a happy endin for a change!!:rolleyes: keep up the good work;)

Oh! Just wondered if you found any other parts from other vehicles that fit the hippo? i'm sure all the other 1.8 owners would be glad to know of any compatible bits like that;)
 
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