More door troubles

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bonnybrook

Active Member
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The woes continue - after last week determining the check strap on the rear passenger side door had come loose (still outstandin) I come to open the other rear door this morning and nothing. At first I thought it was frozen, then it opened, I shut it and hasn't opened since.

Tried again later (after two hours motorway drive) and still no joy. All other doors are working fine (for now). My 5 door has become a 3 door now..

It wont open from inside either

Any ideas what this problem could be? Im not sure I will be able to get the door card out with it shut. I last had it off in the summer when the windows mech broke!

I think this cold weather seems to be taking it's toll - and wifeys had it for 3 weeks during the snow.
 
Last edited:
Well door trim off - anyone know how to unlock the door when it's locked shut? I hear the central locking mechanism going and button pops up but it wont open from inside/outside?
 
OldIrishWulf said:
no,i just never got around to fixing my rear drivers side door.i see it as a security feature.i hope you get it sorted.
Click to expand...


I've read somewhere about someone drilling the lock to disable it - seems bit extreme as I would like to try and fix if poss.
 
Didn't see this and bumped an old post. My rear doors done the same, exactly the same. I did see the post about drilling the lock but don't want to go there, yet. I'm gonna get into theis door and I'll post what I find Bonny. Gotta be a cold related thing surely.
 
Darmain said:
Didn't see this and bumped an old post. My rear doors done the same, exactly the same. I did see the post about drilling the lock but don't want to go there, yet. I'm gonna get into theis door and I'll post what I find Bonny. Gotta be a cold related thing surely.
Click to expand...


Pretty sure - some damp got in and frozen, now it thawed somethings knackered. Wife said it started other day but thought it was just frozen and when driving on after a few mins the open door warning came on - suspect something defrosted.

To make matters worse the door check strap on the other side has come away in the B pillar, been told that's a welded piece inside the B pillar.

Oh the joys!
 
Right, I've got a result (Talk about service!! :D).

I know this sounds primative, but its worth a go. Signal unlock to the car. Now, and you're gonna love this bit, from the inside, thump the door right next to the lock assembly (Not to cause damage but to shock the assembly). Now try opening the door. Keep trying this.

Heres how I know. Got in car and removed internal panel. This gave access to the back of the lock. It was clear to see that the linkages from the handles were connected and working. I thing tried diagnosis rule A, hit the thing. The door then opened!!

Right, now the door was opened I got the lock out of the door frame, put a ratchet strap between the door and the opposite side backseat retaining clip (With back seat down) and cranked the door shut. Bizarrly the central locking had no problem that the lock was missing and locked all other doors.

With the car now secure, the lock on the work bench, I begain investigating. After a few minutes I could see the problem. This is gonna be fun to describe. First definitions. The "Lock" is the device that stops the door being opened by the handles, the "Release" is the mechanism that actually holds the door shut and lets go when the handle is operated and the "Lock" is disengaged. Although these two devices are part of the same assembly, they are essentually two.

The 'Lock' output is a pivot arm. When the door is locked the 'Lock' pivot arm moves up and in doing so drives another pivot arm, which is part of the release up. This action breaks the coupling between the handles and the 'Release' mechanism.

Now, and this is where the problem is. When the "Lock" moves to the unlock condition it drops the pivot arm down. The pivot arm on the 'Release; mechanism is not driven down, it is pulled down by a spring. The problem is this second pivot arm has got stuck and doesn't drop. The result is the "Lock" is in the unlock condition but the 'Release' is still uncoupled.

In this condition, a shock to the lock MAY cause this second pivot arm to drop.

Once open then lock assemble needs to come out and have a good session with the WD40!!

:D:D:D
 
Darmain said:
Right, I've got a result (Talk about service!! :D).

I know this sounds primative, but its worth a go. Signal unlock to the car. Now, and you're gonna love this bit, from the inside, thump the door right next to the lock assembly (Not to cause damage but to shock the assembly). Now try opening the door. Keep trying this.

Heres how I know. Got in car and removed internal panel. This gave access to the back of the lock. It was clear to see that the linkages from the handles were connected and working. I thing tried diagnosis rule A, hit the thing. The door then opened!!

Right, now the door was opened I got the lock out of the door frame, put a ratchet strap between the door and the opposite side backseat retaining clip (With back seat down) and cranked the door shut. Bizarrly the central locking had no problem that the lock was missing and locked all other doors.

With the car now secure, the lock on the work bench, I begain investigating. After a few minutes I could see the problem. This is gonna be fun to describe. First definitions. The "Lock" is the device that stops the door being opened by the handles, the "Release" is the mechanism that actually holds the door shut and lets go when the handle is operated and the "Lock" is disengaged. Although these two devices are part of the same assembly, they are essentually two.

The 'Lock' output is a pivot arm. When the door is locked the 'Lock' pivot arm moves up and in doing so drives another pivot arm, which is part of the release up. This action breaks the coupling between the handles and the 'Release' mechanism.

Now, and this is where the problem is. When the "Lock" moves to the unlock condition it drops the pivot arm down. The pivot arm on the 'Release; mechanism is not driven down, it is pulled down by a spring. The problem is this second pivot arm has got stuck and doesn't drop. The result is the "Lock" is in the unlock condition but the 'Release' is still uncoupled.

In this condition, a shock to the lock MAY cause this second pivot arm to drop.

Once open then lock assemble needs to come out and have a good session with the WD40!!

:D:D:D
Click to expand...

Darmain excellent work - I will give it a go tomorrow and advise. I believe it's actually suposed to be a half decent day tomorrow. Im sure it's a similar issue with mine and just seized - hence I didnt like the sound of drilling it out if it's fixable.

I'm going to WD40 the rest of the lock assemblies before the "big freeze" returns as well.

This forum is consistently a source of info and saved me a small fortune in garage bills over the years!


Fingers crossed!
 
Right, to do the WD40 thing properly you are going to have to get the lock on the work bench. There is a plastic cover that is held by one Torx screw and several moulded clips. This comes off to reveal all the mechanism. Now give it a soaking. If you get to grips with how the thing works then you can exercise all the parts first and then do this again after appling the juice. When its well oiled up then it can go back. However, to learn from my mistake, don't over torque the lock retaing screws that pass throught the door into the lock body, otherwise, mash the head you will. :mad:
 
Something else to consider Bonny. The reason why the cold weather has caused this problem is because the grease in the lock has gone thick. If the thump approach doesn't work then you could try directing warm air onto the door interior to allow the lock to warm up. This will take a while to happen but it may help the situation.
 
Darmain said:
Something else to consider Bonny. The reason why the cold weather has caused this problem is because the grease in the lock has gone thick. If the thump approach doesn't work then you could try directing warm air onto the door interior to allow the lock to warm up. This will take a while to happen but it may help the situation.
Click to expand...

Success!

Door trim off - thats the easy bit. Banged and banged it but wouldn't shift. Kept pulling the internal opener and suddently after about half hour it opened.

Removing lock is a bit of a pain - managed to get the internal/external release off. I think however I snapped a small piece of plastic holding the door cable - but have secured that now.

Don't make the mistake I did of "testing" it on the catch on the car - that cost me another half hour when it wouldn't release.

Into the workshop and dispensed nearly a can of WD40 and 3 in 1 into it (pastic case off). At first only the internal latch would open it, eventally using a screw driver to simulate the locking action I managed to get it all working. I must have worked it a hundred times now it's working perfectly.

I suspect the problem in mine was the lock seemed "damp". I replaced a window motor in there in the summer and suspect there is a small leak around the seal and the damp is playing havoc with things.

Many thanks Darmain - I think I might have given up not knowing someone else had managed to sort it. The locks are about 70 quid I believe so a decent saving.
 
Heres a picy of the offending lock. The external mechanism took the most work to get fuctioning.
 

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RESULT!!

:5bparty::clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2::tea:
:bounce::dance::high5::banana::pound:

Well that is good news!! Well done Bonnybrook, thats two happier Hippos tonight. I fitted the interior panel back on this afternoon after a successful series of operations of the lock during the morning.

IandA12 is right though, this information is valuable to a lot of other Hippo owners, its certainly a better solution to drilling the lock out.

Right Bonnybrock, I think its times for a celebration :beer2:

Cheers,

Dave
 
Darmain said:
RESULT!!

:5bparty::clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2::clap2::tea:
:bounce::dance::high5::banana::pound:

Well that is good news!! Well done Bonnybrook, thats two happier Hippos tonight. I fitted the interior panel back on this afternoon after a successful series of operations of the lock during the morning.

IandA12 is right though, this information is valuable to a lot of other Hippo owners, its certainly a better solution to drilling the lock out.

Right Bonnybrock, I think its times for a celebration :beer2:

Cheers,

Dave
Click to expand...

Tis is indeed Dave - wheres that Stella?

Oiled the whole door check strap, hinges etc - it shuts smoother and quieter than any of the others now.

Also gave it a wash, removed all salt/dirt from last month and vac'd it out.

Now next weekend i'm going to take a look at the B pillar check strap problem on the other door.
 
bonnybrook said:
Tis is indeed Dave - wheres that Stella?

Oiled the whole door check strap, hinges etc - it shuts smoother and quieter than any of the others now.

Also gave it a wash, removed all salt/dirt from last month and vac'd it out.

Now next weekend i'm going to take a look at the B pillar check strap problem on the other door.
Click to expand...
Theres always another job to be done. Thought for a second you were going to say you were taking it laning after all that cleaning.

BTW, be careful, Landies in general don't like to be cleaned and normally breakdown in protest!! :D:D:D
 
Darmain said:
Theres always another job to be done. Thought for a second you were going to say you were taking it laning after all that cleaning.

BTW, be careful, Landies in general don't like to be cleaned and normally breakdown in protest!! :D:D:D
Click to expand...

If you'd seen the state the Mrs left it in after "borrowing" it for a month during the snow - horses and dogs. Whilst using hers I had to replace a tyre that was nearly off the rim, new wipers and battery - all "problems" for months that I never heard about.

It's offroading next Sat - following this misses on the local drag hunt unless we get snowed off again.
 
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