Fuel Return Unions Brass

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Arctic2

Well-Known Member
Posts
2,456
Location
Westmidlands
As part of the maintenance program I am doing on the FL 1 I recently acquired/bought, i decided to change the fuel return hose and it's plastic unions as they have been know to snap off at the T junction when changing the PCV filter, or changing the an injector or even doing a leak back test.
hv135c.jpg


Below is how i changed them.

First remove the small section of the engine/injector cover by removing the three 8mm small bolts. Fig 1
303k7ix.jpg
1

Once remove this will reveal the fuel return hose and the unions Fig 2
2weeuir.jpg
2

Put the small engine cover safe to one side along with it's bolts Fig 3
1zb9dds.jpg
3

You will then need to remove the air/intercooler cover by disconnecting the hoses from air intake, and the intercooler Fig 4
1j3ho8.jpg
4

Start at the EGR by undoing the jubilee clip Fig 5
8wkzlt.jpg
5

Loosen or remove the first fixing hold the intake to the engine Fig 6
2dcb96h.jpg
6

Next the left intercooler hose clip Fig 7/8
2v9dmio.jpg
7

2numwsz.jpg
8

You then remove the air intake pipe section Fig 9
30b019f.jpg
9

The last screw to remove is the left intake fixing Fig 10/11
6i46xj.jpg
10

120tus1.jpg
11

Unplug the wiring from the top section of the intake Fig 12
2h7jnk8.jpg
12

with wiring sheath removed you can disconnect the intake for the air cleaner cover Fig 13
30upp3k.jpg
13

Next you can disconnect the intake from the EGR hose and put it safe with the engine cover from earlier Fig 14
i24q4g.jpg
14

You now need to remove wiring plugs for the injectors this will consist of remove the tiny star shaped bolts first, if you do not have the tool for this you can use a 5mm socket it will do the job Fig 15/16
14b7v9k.jpg
15

344dz4g.jpg
16

With the three bolts remove and put safe, you now need to unclip the wiring plugs from the injectors Fig 17
121am3m.jpg
17

Unplug each one in turn you can use a thin blade screwdriver to open the clip if you so wish, but there is a press section as you will see to help the plugs remove Fig 18
2przcba.jpg
18

Set the wiring to one side out of the way as you can see i was changing the air filter at the same time so i moved it into that section of the air cleaner
Fig 19
2z6sa3p.jpg
19

I/we/you can now unplug the fuel return hose from the injectors start with the far right one as you look at them Fig 20
jscc90.jpg
20

The retaining clips can either be pushed in to remove the union or you can as did remove the clips with some long nosed pliers Fig 21
2yyzfgh.jpg
21

Pull on the union and is should pull out from the injector Fig 22
16i5ir7.jpg
22

If the union is a bit stiff use a fine thin blade screwdriver to tease it apart as here Fig 23
b3wku8.jpg
23

repeat this for all the return hose unions until they are all removed Fig 24
2a9qy3p.jpg
24

At the very last union disconnect from the fuel line as here Fig 25
2gvq1af.jpg
25

Now that the fuel return hoses and unions are removed as here below you are ready to copy them but with brass unions Fig 26
ad1blz.jpg
26

With your new hose line next to the old hose you can start to build up the new brass line section Fig 27
2a9bma1.jpg
27

Put the first brass union on the end of the new hose line this will be the dead end union Fig 28
2a9bma1.jpg
28

With the first union in place you can now do your first cut of the new hose making sure it is the same length as the old original hose Fig 29
28vu2ag.jpg
29

Repeat this along the new hose line each time adding a new bras T union Fig 30
e5fx5l.jpg
30

Once you have completed the four unions the new fuel hose line is ready to be fitted back into the injectors Fig 31
9fpee9.jpg
31

Now the hose line with it's new brass unions is ready first push the union back into the fuel line then line them up to fit into the injectors Fig 32
2dquiye.jpg
32

Push each union back into the relative injector, repeat along the line from left to right, making sure they a fully pushed home Fig 33
10mo4ro.jpg
33

Finally fit the clips to hold the unions in place the return hose brass union job is now completed and they should last the life time of the car Fig 34/35
15wh1qx.jpg
34

119qt81.jpg
35

Refit the injector wiring harness making sure each one is plug in properly Fig 36
2yxow76.jpg
36/37

2h72ix5.jpg
37

Screw down the harness to it's fixing points Fig 38
255uvie.jpg
38

Refit the intake and it's hoses along with the small engine cover Figs 39/40
9rpuo4.jpg
39

dcfpyv.jpg
40

Cheers Arctic2

Link for the brass unions and fuel hose below
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/dieselcomponentsuk
 
Last edited:
As part of the maintenance program I am doing on the FL 1 I recently acquired/bought, i decided to change the fuel return hose and it's plastic unions as they have been know to snap off at the T junction when changing the PCV filter, or changing the an injector or even doing a leak back test.
hv135c.jpg


Below is how i changed them.

First remove the small section of the engine/injector cover by removing the three 8mm small bolts. Fig 1
303k7ix.jpg
1

Once remove this will reveal the fuel return hose and the unions Fig 2
2weeuir.jpg
2

Put the small engine cover safe to one side along with it's bolts Fig 3
1zb9dds.jpg
3

You will then need to remove the air/intercooler cover by disconnecting the hoses from air intake, and the intercooler Fig 4
1j3ho8.jpg
4

Start at the EGR by undoing the jubilee clip Fig 5
8wkzlt.jpg
5

Loosen or remove the first fixing hold the intake to the engine Fig 6
2dcb96h.jpg
6

Next the left intercooler hose clip Fig 7/8
2v9dmio.jpg
7

25fhh7b.jpg
8

You then remove the air intake pipe section Fig 9
30b019f.jpg
9

The last screw to remove is the left intake fixing Fig 10/11
6i46xj.jpg
10

120tus1.jpg
11

Unplug the wiring from the top section of the intake Fig 12
2h7jnk8.jpg
12

with wiring sheath removed you can disconnect the intake for the air cleaner cover Fig 13
30upp3k.jpg
13

Next you can disconnect the intake from the EGR hose and put it safe with the engine cover from earlier Fig 14
i24q4g.jpg
14

You now need to remove wiring plugs for the injectors this will consist of remove the tiny star shaped bolts first, if you do not have the tool for this you can use a 5mm socket it will do the job Fig 15/16
14b7v9k.jpg
15

344dz4g.jpg
16

With the three bolts remove and put safe, you now need to unclip the wiring plugs from the injectors Fig 17
121am3m.jpg
17

Unplug each one in turn you can use a thin blade screwdriver to open the clip if you so wish, but there is a press section as you will see to help the plugs remove Fig 18
2przcba.jpg
18

Set the wiring to one side out of the way as you can see i was changing the air filter at the same time so i moved it into that section of the air cleaner
Fig 19
2z6sa3p.jpg
19

I/we/you can now unplug the fuel return hose from the injectors start with the far right one as you look at them Fig 20
jscc90.jpg
20

The retaining clips can either be pushed in to remove the union or you can as did remove the clips with some long nosed pliers Fig 21
2yyzfgh.jpg
21

Pull on the union and is should pull out from the injector Fig 22
16i5ir7.jpg
22

If the union is a bit stiff use a fine thin blade screwdriver to tease it apart as here Fig 23
b3wku8.jpg
23

repeat this for all the return hose unions until they are all removed Fig 24
2a9qy3p.jpg
24

At the very last union disconnect from the fuel line as here Fig 25
2gvq1af.jpg
25

Now that the fuel return hoses and unions are removed as here below you are ready to copy them but with brass unions Fig 26
ad1blz.jpg
26

With your new hose line next to the old hose you can start to build up the new brass line section Fig 27
2a9bma1.jpg
27

Put the first brass union on the end of the new hose line this will be the dead end union Fig 28
2a9bma1.jpg
28

With the first union in place you can now do your first cut of the new hose making sure it is the same length as the old original hose Fig 29
28vu2ag.jpg
29

Repeat this along the new hose line each time adding a new bras T union Fig 30
e5fx5l.jpg
30

Once you have completed the four unions the new fuel hose line is ready to be fitted back into the injectors Fig 31
9fpee9.jpg
31

Now the hose line with it's new brass unions is ready first push the union back into the fuel line then line them up to fit into the injectors Fig 32
2dquiye.jpg
32

Push each union back into the relative injector, repeat along the line from left to right, making sure they a fully pushed home Fig 33
10mo4ro.jpg
33

Finally fit the clips to hold the unions in place the return hose brass union job is now completed and they should last the life time of the car Fig 34/35
15wh1qx.jpg
34

119qt81.jpg
35

Refit the injector wiring harness making sure each one is plug in properly Fig 36
2yxow76.jpg
36/37

2h72ix5.jpg
37

Screw down the harness to it's fixing points Fig 38
255uvie.jpg
38

Refit the intake and it's hoses along with the small engine cover Figs 39/40
9rpuo4.jpg
39

dcfpyv.jpg
40

Cheers Arctic2


:behindsofa:

Brilliant post :clap2::clap2:........BUT..........Where did you get the brass replacement fittings from and what was the cost ?????
 
behindsofa:
That's brilliant...Cheers.

Quite a few people have posted before on here regarding breakage of the plastic fittings when removing the leak off pipes. This is obviously a fix which permanently solves the problem and makes replacement of the leak off pipes a lot easier.Well done !!:clap2:
 
I might just do mine on my old td4 freelander I broke one so I know how easy they are to break it cost me more than these did from LR
 
You are a genius sir. I would not have contemplated doing this until I saw your pics. It took about an hour yesterday - very satisfying and straightforward to complete.
So far so good, the smell of diesel has gone and the air coming into the cabin seems all together fresher.
Many thanks
 
Thank you glad I can contribute the this great forum, I will post up some of the other jobs I have done since I purchased the FL 1 in October 2014 all with pictorial addition Arctic2 ;)
 
Great post.

I usually why away from playing with the fuel system, will fuel leak from the pipe when its disconnected? I.e. Should it be clamped before starting the job?

Edit: the link doesn't seem to work, is this the kit?

Bosch Heavy Duty Injector Leak Off Connector Kit for 4 Injectors - Diesel Components

Thanks

Hi There.
Sorry about not using your name as it is not visible I found 95% of members aren't, the answer is no you do not need to clamp the hose a little dribble will leak but not to the extent to worry, hope that helps with your question it should only take about 30 minutes do one section at a time as in the photo's ;)

I have just checked the link it seems they have changed it ? hopefully this works

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/dieselcomponentsuk

Direct to the parts
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281421951233?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
Last edited:
Back
Top