Freelander won't start after re-fitting alternator

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Is the vent switched to screen?

cos i've been having a read through the web and if it is the aircon will come on to dry the air going to the windscreen to stop it misting up.

Just a thought.


Although i've not noticed this on mine tbh
 
Is the vent switched to screen?

cos i've been having a read through the web and if it is the aircon will come on to dry the air going to the windscreen to stop it misting up.

Just a thought.


Although i've not noticed this on mine tbh


the aircon does come on in that situation but the light in the switch doesn't illuminate...


think ur gonna have to part with some hard earned and get it diag'd....if it is the ecu you can't just swap it out with one from a breakers, it'll need to be coded....
 
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the aircon does come on in that situation but the light in the switch doesn't illuminate...


think ur gonna have to part with some hard earned and get it diag'd....if it is the ecu you can't just swap it out with one from a breakers, it'll need to be coded....

Thats why i'd not noticed it!!!!!

He's gonna have to get it plugged in then, like you say it could be absolutely anything.

Cheers
 
my brother had the same problem on his vw ,we put a jump lead on the engine block and to the earth on the bat and she started. he some how unearthed the engine while putting on the new alternater(dont ask me how) worth a try before you start chuking money at it. If that dosent work are you defenatly gettin a spark to the plugs or power to the coil/coil packs. any less than 12v means you get a weak spark and it wont start
 
Unfortunately getting it diagnosed isn't really an option as I'm not working at the moment. I just can't understand why removing and refitting the alternator can have cocked up the ecu :-s

And if i have to fit another ecu, what's involved in getting it re-coded? is it something that can be done by someone with code reading equipment?
 
It doesn't have to be the ECU!

It really could be just a bad earth or summat.
is there a spark at the plugs?
Is fuel getting up to the manifold?

Once you've checked all that, you'll have a better idea
 
Left locked overnight, tried just now - Not starting!

Cranks over - no spark, no power to fuel pump, Air Con indicator on the switch is permanently on.

Running out of ideas guys! - HELP!
 
The battery is ok cause it's unlocking everything fine and aparrantly de-activating the immobiliser as i would assume the engine wouldn't crank if the immobiliser wasnt de activated.

But it seems that the coil and fuel pump feed aspect if the immobiliser is remaining active?

Therefore, still flummoxed :-S
 
are you absolutely sure you haven't knocked the emergency cut off?? these are the exact symptons you would get if you had? if you are then i'm afraid its a case of finding a deceny indie garage and coughing up for a hook up :( theres only so many thing you can check these days with wires and bulbs......
 
I guess you're thinking maybe an immobiliser problem? I'll give that a try.

Just been poring over the circuit diagrams to see if I could get some power to the fuel pump in case it was the relay that was stuck or something. The fuse for the fuel pump is directly below the one for the rear window wash(or wipe - Cant recall) and F1 had 12v at one of the terminals so I ran a wire from there to the fuel pump side of F19 to see if the pump/wiring was ok. Turned ignition on and off the pump whirred, but still no engine start (turns over but wont fire up)

I'll go and try it in a few more mins to see if it was immobiliser.

Fingers Crossed :)
If F19 is dead check if you've got 12v (ign on) at fuse F6 (supply to relay)
 
"If F19 is dead check if you've got 12v (ign on) at fuse F6 (supply to relay)"

Checked F6, guess what! Blown :) Replaced it and it started :) Thanks for all you help guys.
 
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