Clutch removal

Hi guys

Starting to condition myself to the idea that I will be very soon attacking a clutch change on my 2004 Td4

I came across this link Freelander Clutch change

The guy misses out a few critical items like the hydraulic line & the gear change mechanism BUT the procedure would seem to be one of the simplest that I have come across. No need to drop 1 side of the engine or remove the prop shaft & IRD either it seems

Could I please ask for your expert advice on this procedure ???

Does it seem possible ?
Is there a better one somewhere ?

Thanks for your help

Digby

I also think its the wrong engine buddy, I looked at that when I was considering changing my clutch a couple of weeks ago. Download the RAVE .iso (Land Rover Workshop Manual) for the complete story on whats involved.

That quick write-up makes it seems easy... I bottled out 1/2 way through

thanks "GB"
I downloaded a copy of RAVE (zip version) but cant find any reference to getting the box out.
do you have a link to that ISO version ??


Digby

Hi GB

Found a good link using my friend Google
works fine now that I got the iso version
I'll let you know what happens

Digby

Good luck buddy!

Be sure to follow all the .pdf links in RAVE, its a pain working backwards but you'll at least see the full extent of the work involved as per Land Rovers recommendations. When it got to the part concerning the gearbox removal & supporting the engine, I bottled out!

hi GB

quick update

everything is out except the gearbox - held up by the f'ing roll pin in the gear change linkage - Grrrrrrr

know how to get it out ???

when i did mine , i had to make up a long drift , made out of a length of studding, drilled a hole in the end and tapped in a nail and filed it down to the right size to drift out the roll pin ,
also would help if you drop the engine down off the mounting, this will give you more room

good luck

Thanks for the reply john t

I already have the gbox side of the engine lowered

Access is still a bit tough though
Can i whack it out from either side or does it only come out 1 way
Thanks
Digby

Hi Digby

Fair play to you for having a go, I bottled it and am getting a garage to do it. And whoever said that the link you first put on here isn't a TD4 is right, it must be an L series. Also, the clutch pics show a standard flywheel, whereas the TD4 utilises a DMF.

Good luck......... post some pics if you can when you've completed your clutch change, I'm sure it'll help someone

its just a roll, pin it comes out either way, should come out with a few gentle tapps

good luck

hi john

Got the box out thursday afternoon
Changed the clutch with no problem - old one was nicely burnt !!!!!

Tried to remove the famous pin with the box on the floor - no good ............

Anyway now waiting to collect an engine hoist from a friend in order to lift the box back up and hopefully stick it back on the engine. From there its not so tough to rebuild the beast. Just hope nothing else was bust

Digby

rebuilding is just a case of taking your time making sure you dont forget anything,

Back again

Gearbox went back in again with the use of the engine hoist - even so it was tricky to get it in place with the selector mechanism still in place and hard to align properly as the sling holding the box was never in the right place

Anyway, once aligned it pushed on nicely

got the IRD back on on my own - heavy but do-able with a well positioned knee.....

spent yesterday afternoon rebuilding the suspension etc etc and refilling box, IRD and coolant

just have to refit the splash guard and undertray before taking her out for a test but that will have to wait for a couple of days as I am off to Istanbul this afternoon

I have a few pics of the destroyed clutch - no real point in putting pics of the rest of the operation because the RAVE manual describes it very well - will put them up monday

Digby

Dont forget a clutch bleed.

Them Td4's sometimes require a couple of bleeds before they're perfect.

Hi there guys

Just thought i would update things

following the reinstallation of my clutch and reassembly of the car everything seems to be just fine........

so here are a few pics of the disaster

firstly the flywheel after removing the old clutch



It is not scored or visibly blue so i left it in.......

Next the inside of the bell housing



There was black dust (burnt clutch plate i guess) all around the flywheel and inside the bell housing

this is the old clutch disk - looks like the mechanism is fooked.........as well as being burnt



Cleaned up around the flywheel



And put the new clutch in it



Centering the plate was easy without any tool

The old slave cylinder looked particularly rancid..... looks like it too started to melt or something.....


The new slave cylinder in place and a light coat of grease on the splines



And after fighting for some time the Gearbox back in place



can you see the doscoloration around the drive shaft hole - this shaft was not fully home when I dismantled it - could have been leaking a little bit of oil for some time

As i said before - no real need for other pics as the RAVE manual really is very clear about what to do
I took the opportunity to change a few bolts which had damaged heads from somebodys previous DIY attempts

Just need to relook at the lower engine brace now as there is a sort of clunking when letting of the accelerator - the rubber was a bit loose inside the metal ring (subframe side) but it was not cracked. Anyway cant think what else it could be except the diff which does seem to have a bit of play

Digby

Bugger - why cant you see the pics ????????

you can leave pin and just prise off links to gear change ,i would have changed dual mass flywheel it is the clutch damper ,replacing springs in the clutch plate and is a wearing part

yes i know but it costs a fortune and only has 97,000 kms and there were no symptoms of a worn flywheel

How do I load photos properly so they can be seen ???????

did you check its damping or pull it out wards to check it,there often isnt till a little later with the symptoms