Tip when removing head

If you have to remove your cylinder head, instead of stripping the inlet and exhaust manifolds off ... and risking shearing the studs and/or nuts, leave them in place and take the whole lot off in one piece.

All you have to do is remove the air intake from the filter and the exhaust manifold clamp.

It also has the advantage of giving you something easy to get hold of to lift it on and off.

Hope this helps someone!

Definitely have an extra wheat%%%x beofre lifting it though, they're a heavy bugger even with the manifolds removed.

no it aint zeaphod your just a girl

How very dare you! ound:

I'm about to remove my engine and replace all the gaskets and front and rear seals - This motor is in a 26 year old London taxi, and it is an Historical Vehicle, so I HAVE to use the original engine.
I've heard some comments in forums about older head / blocks literally welding themselves together? True or not?

The motor has done under 200,000 miles over 26 years (according to the speedo - which I can't verify!), 11 years as a taxi and the rest as a badly serviced novelty until it was abandoned!

I have to replace the front and rear crankshaft seals at the minimum, until I can get the money together to send it to Turners (good idea or not?).

Any advice on what to look out for would be greatly appreciated.

FX4S said:

I'm about to remove my engine and replace all the gaskets and front and rear seals - This motor is in a 26 year old London taxi, and it is an Historical Vehicle, so I HAVE to use the original engine.
I've heard some comments in forums about older head / blocks literally welding themselves together? True or not?

The motor has done under 200,000 miles over 26 years (according to the speedo - which I can't verify!), 11 years as a taxi and the rest as a badly serviced novelty until it was abandoned!

I have to replace the front and rear crankshaft seals at the minimum, until I can get the money together to send it to Turners (good idea or not?).

Any advice on what to look out for would be greatly appreciated.

Click to expand...

not true ,gasket ban stick the 2 together but a lever between water pump housing a front of head usually works without problems , drain block by removing drain bung on lhs of block first stops coolant entering bores when head bolts are slackened,bores and rings are prone to wear but cheap enough for new pistons and rebore, pistons and rings about £30 each

jamesmartin said:

not true ,gasket ban stick the 2 together but a lever between water pump housing a front of head usually works without problems , drain block by removing drain bung on lhs of block first stops coolant entering bores when head bolts are slackened,bores and rings are prone to wear but cheap enough for new pistons and rebore, pistons and rings about £30 each

Click to expand...

Thanks for the answer - glad to get myths de-bunked!
Further question or two (they won't be the last).

With the rear crankshaft seal, the workshop manual I'm working from mentions a seal guide (picture attached) and for the front I need a special pulley tool - I guess these tools are now rarer than rocking horse poop - any suggestions on workarounds - especially the rear seal - I'd hate to put the engine back together only to discover I had nipped the seal lip!

This brings me to the question of whether anyone has created a step by step guide to an engine strip and rebuild in these forums?

If the engine is the same as the landy 2.5, then the workshop manual is as good as it gets. Look for the defender parts and workshop manual on google - they are free to download.
I think you could fashion a seal guide from thin plastic card - from a model shop.
The crank sprocket puller should be reasonably easy to make, as long as you can get the right threaded bolt.

"Tip when removing head"

I thought you old buggers only took your teeth out at night :lol:

Me teefs is all bought and paid fer!

Head gasket change usually takes a couple of hours

Whats your engine number start with 14J or 15J rear crank seal is the same as landrover 2.5 so easy to obtain hardest part to find is timing belt 104 teeth so slightly different to landrover 2.5.

FX4S said:

Thanks for the answer - glad to get myths de-bunked!
Further question or two (they won't be the last).

With the rear crankshaft seal, the workshop manual I'm working from mentions a seal guide (picture attached) and for the front I need a special pulley tool - I guess these tools are now rarer than rocking horse poop - any suggestions on workarounds - especially the rear seal - I'd hate to put the engine back together only to discover I had nipped the seal lip!

This brings me to the question of whether anyone has created a step by step guide to an engine strip and rebuild in these forums?

Click to expand...

there care 2 types of seal dowty type which comes with its own plastic guide and std oil seal which can be fitted with no guide which you can prise carefully lip over crank boss something you shouldnt with dowty type ,no idea about step by step but ive reconditioned considerable numbers so happy to help ,front puller tool arent rare and can be made easily enough, 3 x 6mm long set screws and plate with a center bolt to push against crank , though they often lever off

Thanks for the answers - nice to know I'm not about to enter "rocket science" territory!

I actually have quite a comprehensive workshop manual from LTI which is literally in "Haynes Manuals" style - removal, dismantle and rebuild in easy to follow numbered steps, together with access to a Landy 110 workshop book. It's really these "special tools" I can't seem to get, but I believe my local Landy restorer has already made his own and is happy for me to borrow them, or make them for me!

Regards the engine number - this has always been a bone of contention in the taxi/Landy circles as it doesn't seem to follow the normal series numbers - my engine number is 21J 0290 7D. I quoted this number to Turners and they confirmed it is a Landy model, albeit modified (from Landrover wiki):

To date, I have always ordered parts in Austria for the 110 Defender 2.5L NA Diesel with no problems (oil/diesel filter, vacuum pump, fuel leader pump, timing & fan belts, top and bottom engine gasket seal kits), so I've yet to encounter any peculiarities to the 21J engine number.