Oil Pressure Switch Replacement....

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Saint.V8

Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie
Full Member
Following the purchase of the 4.0 SE P38 a couple of weeks ago, the only major fault it has is an oil leak. We all know Land Rovers like to mark the territory where ever they go, but I park in the same spot at work and the ‘puddle’ is getting a tad embarrassing!

It is leaking from above the Oil Filter from the region around the Oil Pressure Relief valve or the Oil Pressure switch.

I changed the Oil Filter last week and also pulled the coolant pipe off that covers the Oil Relief Valve port and couldn’t see anything untoward.

So further research led me to a post about the Oil Pressure Switch/Sensor...so for the sake of a few quid for a new sensor I thought I’d change it out ....

First things first, as I will be taking the Alternator off, you must disconnect the battery

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Using a 15mm Spanner on the tensioner pulley nut, apply pressure to loosen the drive belt and slip off the Alternator pulley.

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Next remove the pins that hold the Alternator on to the bracket

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Undo the two wires on the back and lift the Alternator off the bracket

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A 13mm spanner on the Tensioner assembly bolt and remove

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The next couple of points aren’t mentioned in RAVE...!!!

Next is to remove the heat shield that covers the engine wiring harness, the ‘P’ clip on the side and a tiny earth strap on the bottom of the bracket.

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Then undo the 4 bolts that hold the bracket onto the engine and lift out

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The Oil Pressure Switch/Sensor is now visable

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The old Switch was a 24mm spanner and space is tight but can be undone with little movements, once it was cracked off, I could undo with fingers!

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Looking at the ‘O’Ring that seals the switch it looks a bit squished so fingers crossed the new one will sort the leak.

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New Switch and sealing ring

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Before refitting, you should never fit ‘O’rings or seals dry, so a smearing of vaseline or petrolium jelly to moisten the seal is prudent.

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Refit the bracket and the P clip, Earth Strap and Heat sheild. When refitting the Tensioner, there is a dowel on the back which needs to locate into the bracket on refitment

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Then refit the Alternator and wires and using the same method to release the drive belt, replace it!!

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Reconnect battery and resync the keys and job done....

Unfortunatly it hasn’t cured the leak, so further investigation is needed....kinda hoping the front cover isn’t cracked as replacing that is a bit of a pig of a job!

Ho hum, love Range Rover ownership!
 
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P38 and reliable pmsl

Quality of maintenance = reliability. If you buy one some dickhead has had it will be trouble, same applies to any car. Also there are plenty of utter planks working in garages today, who think a piece of paper makes them a mechanic. Or as they now like to be called Technicians. :);)
 
StV8.

You now have 2?
what are you going to do with two?

I must admit, I kept my p38 for ages after I got the L322....but....really....2!
 
Quality of maintenance = reliability. If you buy one some dickhead has had it will be trouble, same applies to any car. Also there are plenty of utter planks working in garages today, who think a piece of paper makes them a mechanic. Or as they now like to be called Technicians. :);)

so true wammers had a td6 l322 in yesterday customer had taken it in for a alternator change @ local indy & he messed it up big style guess who ended up putting it right:confused::confused: don't know how they have the front to charge folk knowing its bodged up,
ant them engine pics bring back memories so basic/easy to work on;)
 
so true wammers had a td6 l322 in yesterday customer had taken it in for a alternator change @ local indy & he messed it up big style guess who ended up putting it right:confused::confused: don't know how they have the front to charge folk knowing its bodged up,
ant them engine pics bring back memories so basic/easy to work on;)
More to come Will,

Gonna be changing the whole Front Timing Chain Cover at some point in the next week or so as I cannot seem to stem the oil leak it has, so I thought bite the bullet, get a S/H cover, refurb and refit...see if that stops the leak!

Will be a lengthy one as the Alternator, water pump, Alt bracket, tensioner, crank pulley and crank seal all have to come off...then on refitment it is fitting the front crank seal, aligning the oil pump gears to the crank woodruff, Fitting all the ancillaries back on....

Might take a gander at the timing chain and sprockets and see what condition they are in too considering I am in there!
 
More to come Will,

Gonna be changing the whole Front Timing Chain Cover at some point in the next week or so as I cannot seem to stem the oil leak it has, so I thought bite the bullet, get a S/H cover, refurb and refit...see if that stops the leak!

Will be a lengthy one as the Alternator, water pump, Alt bracket, tensioner, crank pulley and crank seal all have to come off...then on refitment it is fitting the front crank seal, aligning the oil pump gears to the crank woodruff, Fitting all the ancillaries back on....

Might take a gander at the timing chain and sprockets and see what condition they are in too considering I am in there!

Just stick some of this in. It's the modern way. Kevin with the Corsa down the road swears by it. Why get your hands all dirty. :D:D:D
 
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