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Noted, I shall refrain hereafter.. He's still a cockwomble though.. 🤪

Not disagreeing, but wondering if this might be just bordering on what the thread is about. But don't mind me, all I care about is that the thread continues in it's normal vein.

Posted in the spirit of the fred I hope. I think he's a (blowhard bully liar crook misogynist) clown, so why not make fun..

Strange, my failed MAF didn't put the engine light on.

You may find the item is identical to the 300 series D1 hole in the centre for both vehicles, the parts catalogue for both show similar part numbers for RH & LH side.

Can't help but think this might be veering towards what should be on AG, but don't mind me, I ain't in charge! 🤣 🤣 🤣

Just putting this up here. For a laugh! I once had a colleague who did this. I first met her when she came into my General Studies class at 16. She was a rather large girl but nonetheless.... She got fabulous A grades then went on to do a degree...

Another thing I discovered is that if the MAF fails when you're driving at speed it puts the yellow engine light on. When I got home I had a look with the Nanocom and it didn't appear to be flowing any air, which was a giveaway. Interestingly...

Wanted to do a bit of work on me Landy today but another thing got in me way. About 5 months ago I was diagnosed as pre-diabetes 2 and at risk of getting it. And have been badgered by an NHS (contractor?) to join a help programme, to which I have...

its running a bit lumpy also , really annoying. Once i can get a code i should know more. Been faultless for the last 5 years most frustrating.Thanks for the feedback @Brown 👍

This was very similar…no matter how many times I stored the height it would always drop to the floor…. So this issue was found out to be the plugs I had purchased were wired up wrong! They had power to read the height but no return to the SLS...

There's various stuff that goes wrong with TD5s that I've experienced. It sounds like there's some sort of intermittent electrical fault. As well as the accelerator (or 'driver demand') potentiometer going wrong, it's also possible for the wiring...

TACO... I'm not a conspiracist, but the CIA should've put a better shooter on the roof...

It has turned a bit cooler today. Central heating switched itself on this afternoon, must have forgotten to turn the auto off at the start of summer :rolleyes:. Put me thermals on tonight - might need a cup of cocoa later 😁

You need live data, especially to eliminate MAP/Iat issues. which a Foxwell will pick up under live data!

The last few days has been spent removing the rear suspension upper and lower trailing arms. Each, in their own way, has been a PITA. Was supposed to be overhauling the front and rear calipers but the courier company has decided our village is...

I have been annealing the PLA parts to increase the resistance to warping and make the parts more solid in general. This is done at a slightly lower temperature than normal though so guidance says it should hold up to about 80'c

I think you just need to check the label but the fuses. Look for the H or L in lower left corner.

No, I do not. I have the full HEVAC, cruise control. That is it. Thanks for the tip, I'll check tommorow on the BECM.

Should be on a label on the BECM ?? Do you have stuff like memory seats or mirrors ? Also as you don't have a location, nobody knows if there's a Nanocom near you !!!

Stunning 🤩

I dont currently own a nanocom, is there any way to know, if I have a low line becm

Disconnect battery & check voltage is 12.8V. Then wait overnight & measure again. If it drops to 10V again, then the battery is duff.

Yes, many things did exactly that. Lubricating the spud shaft between the transit gearbox and the defender transfer box not least of them.

Check if you have it in BECM Setting screens.

The list of jobs is finally drying up, tow bar electrics fitted, rear view mirror for whats it worth fitted, original sun visors bleached clean and fitted, aluminum front number plate fabricated and plates on. Just emailed Exmoor trim for a quote...

It’s 12.8v at rest and drops to 10.8v on crank when checked with multimeter. I’ve checked the drop from negative and positive to started motor and both less than .3v. seems the issue is more with the ECU voltage reading than the battery or...

My TD5 has bulkhead flaps, think they went with the tdci models.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/406142118698

try