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pawl missing?

Hi is this still available cheers

Presumably it's difficult to open the boot with the battery disconnected :)

the thickness of the glass,thickness of panel and overall diameter will affect the fitment try Direct Seals they do a good range of clayton seal

Ideally don't post the same question twice ?? Then follow the advice in the other thread.

No

110ah 920 cold crank was the battery most recommended on three different fora. Several people said it was over powered.

It posted twice for some reason.

The bonnet is ready to go into service mode and another pair of hands is ready for the lift. Do you mean the new battery in the boot or the old one and could you explain why I shouldn't leave it there please?

...that my boy is currently in hospital being checked out for aftermath of a heart-attack. :( Has had pretty high BP and bouts of "Chest pain" over the past week or so. Saw Dr. and they said go to A&E. So there he is.

I've purchased a Varta HI1 110ah 920a battery. I have a 2005 Td6. Is there anything I should be aware of when fitting this new battery? Anything requiring resetting or calibrating? Thank you.

As above, no battery management but I see you ignored the advice and went for the smaller battery. If you have a Vogue or one with lot's of extra's fitted the 920a may struggle a little if it's not your daily driver and/or used for short trips.

Does the spare still have its hidden key in the fob if so, pull the cap off the passengers door and open the car, then see if it starts the car.

Can anyone give guidance please. I have lost the fob that I use all the time. Tried the spare but it doesn't work. Battery is ok. I'm thinking I will need 2 new fobs. I'm assuming a dealer will have to supply them and sync in to car. However...

I sent the glass and seal kit back to the shop . I didn’t think to check this originally sadly … The truck cab itself was hard to fit onto the tub though , it never lined up truly perfect . I believe my 87 reg truck is just after the chassis...

Still no different to 2014 plate FL2

I did my Defender radius arms on the floor, essentially the same I guess. Chock all the wheels so nothing moves, went straight back on no problem

I've purchased a Varta HI1 110ah 920a battery. I have a 2005 Td6. Is there anything I should be aware of when fitting this new battery? Anything requiring resetting or calibrating? Thank you.

You've got two legs, you can still hop around :p

Does the new seal look the same as the otherside? Take a photo looking from the front of the truck cab,they are a different shapes for series/defender

Thanks for that. I should have been clearer but i think my brain was fried after searching through all the choices available. So, my axle is a 10 spline drum braked affair. The two parts numbers ive been given from LRParts are both for drum...

Busted my ankle, ice packs paracetamol & tiger balm...hobble back to work. :confused:

Thanks for this. I’m not that familiar with the engines and read about the “typical” area where these blocks crack. Had no idea if it was near the water jacket or not.

Well, thank you anyway.

I had the same a few weeks back . It was due to low voltage. Regulator in alternator and poor battery at fault. New regulator and new battery cured spurious electrical faults that kept throwing up. Failing that as said check fuse box, smell it...

That modulation is way out it should be 50%

I think you will find that weld is nowhere near the cooling jacket and the block has cracked as something has let go in the bottom end in the past.

When I did mine I put the chassis on stands and had the wheels on the ground so axle was supported and did one arm at a time that way nothing moved

You will struggle on those ramps. Also probably dangerous to have the car on it's wheels with raduis arm(s) removed because there nothing to stop the axle moving back & forth. It really needs tall axle stands supporting the chassis.

For how small the glass was I didn’t insert the middle seal . No way could it stretch the main seal that much