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Chains are cheap. Replace regardless.

If your worried about your FIP look at the modulation % on your nanocom. *With warm engine at idle If it was your no4 injector it would flash the orange inj sign on dash. I don’t think this is main thing you have. Belt would explain few of those...

When you go off-roading it’s common to squish the rear box(es) after a sharp descent, so I had a single straight pipe only at the back for years. When it falled oft I toyed with the idea of having a straight through system decided in end that...

I was thinking the same thing about the chain. I haven’t pulled the pistons or crankshaft yet. Hopefully Friday or Saturday. Btw, if you are the Kermit from YouTube, I really appreciated your build videos for Kermit. Extremely helpful to me...

+1 on support the car & let the axle hang on the shocks. Do them one side at a time & the axle will rotate less when loosening & doing up the bolts.

Bad joints in fusebox ?

My blue P38 has single rear pipe & centre box. It sounds much more throaty than the green P38 which has the standard twin pipe system. Not excessively loud, but enough to turn heads, especially at pedestrian crossings if I rev it !!

My first thought when I saw that was actually how to get a cheap rotary coupler for you (with a load of spares to make up the expense) It’s still in my mind but it’s an auto and very far away, wouldn’t have an mot and even if I could drag it...

Yeah ive got two small free flow silencers instead of the cats and then the centre silncer. Outside the car its still loud and in my opinion the tone is almost spot on. But once you close the windows and cruising on the highway with some music...

I have a 3.5 EFI & employed a remote amp from PS that failed after a month. Not impressed by the company's insistence in replacing the item rather than agreeing to a refund. I did some research & purchased a Lucas (yes I know ..) which exhibited...

Hi mate I have a sdv6, with turbo issues started to remove in situation, but run across other issues so pulled motor in the end, but believe it can be done if by removing turbo, I watched a couple of YouTube vids where someone was doing this...

I don't have a wife, so that's one less to worry about.

I'm going to try and find a cat back exhaust with some performance silencers rather than a full straight pipe.

I've got a big one somewhere. I forget what it goes up to, will check later if you want to use it. (There is nothing innuendo in this post thank you)

I do want to hear a fully straight piped one in person but I don't think I'd live with it. Il be using it everyday. I prefer tune over loudness.

You could fit a spacer between master and pedal box but I wouldn't bother. I would suggest removing the pushrod and getting a local machine shop to extend the thread. 5/16UNF is the thread size. How high is the brake pedal from the floor? I...

Have a mooch on the net to check the resistance in a coil pack, even in that model if you can. Check both the high and low sides of it. 👍 If it reads OK, get the main lead from the coil pack held in an insulated pair of pliers and hold it near...

Yes that's the current set up and it does sound mean.

I can not find a number on my rear either. However, as far as I'm aware, all 110 Salisbury rears had the same diff and casing, but it's just the shafts and "other bits" that change. Didn't some 200s still have drums, but later ones had discs...

If there is a glass thickness difference I imagine there is a rubber difference. Looks like there should be an insert to go in the seal. Regardless it does look smaller than it should be.

Here are more photos of the truck cab & passenger side glass “assume original “ There is no evidence of foul play and any damage to the metal work itself . I assume since it’s 4mm glass it must be a defender roof ? As series used 5mm glass

Hi, im just about to order some parts to rebuild my axles but i note different part numbers for the stub axles on the rear axle. Part number DA3358 (lrparts.net) is for axle 22S8283 and the other is DA3359 for 22S824................... and...

Id put the chassis on jack stands as high up in the air as safely possible so that most of the weight is on the jack stands and not the axle. When you reinstall the radius arms you might want to be able to move the axle around independetly of the...

You don't say where you are from this would help, so anyone from that area may know someone who can help.

What did you go with in the end ? please let us know.

Definitely a nice little project. If I were more mechanically minded, I’d be up for it!

Been a while since I had a Series 2 on the go. However the thing that caught my eye in your pic is the nut on the master rod. Two my eye it just looks bigger/thicker than an original one. A narrower one would allow the tad more free play you need...

:vb-doh:

You seem very keen on the LOF kit almost as if you have made up your mind already. The TRW kit is the one you need, it was designed far and works well with the car. It will also likely be better quality than the LOF