Workshop Floor

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Kerm

New Member
Posts
8
Location
22110, Brittany.
Hi Guys,

Just about to lay my new workshop concrete floor, and thought i'd ask what you guys have used to seal it, paint it, and to stop warm tyres lifting the paint off when you park on it.

Any thoughts much appreciated.
 
If your not bothered about it looking like a salon you only need to seal it.

Easiest way is with a spoon full of PVA in an old household polish sprayer full of water. It has to be thin enough to end up 'in' the floor not on it.

Anything on the surface will need maintaining/re painting etc.

Trust me I'm a doctor. ;)

If its a hairdressers you want get cheap paint. It won't last just as much as expensive stuff.
 
If you are having ready mix, ask the supplier about adding "stuff" to the mix - there are all sorts of things available for acid resistance etc., etc. and colours and... and...

Failing that, then PVA, or you could consider latex - ask at your friendly builders merchant - is it called "SBA" ? can't remember!!
 
self levelling epoxy floor is the way forward

Ah! now this has been mentioned I remember a pal with such a floor - you could have eaten your dinner off it when it was new... ( not now !)

seem to remember it being quite expensive, but probably worth it, because it saves so much faffing about.....
 
Ah! now this has been mentioned I remember a pal with such a floor - you could have eaten your dinner off it when it was new... ( not now !)

seem to remember it being quite expensive, but probably worth it, because it saves so much faffing about.....

If your going to be staying at your property for a while its worth it :)
 
pva? that will go tacky when wet.

sbr is latex water proof.

but you need it to set off for a while before you can seal and paint it
 
Residual water from 3 gallons per meter on a 4 inch concrete base will take at least a year to dissipate. Sealing with a water resistant finish will slow the process indefinitely and risk vapour blowing the finish off the floor.
Applying a thin coat of PVA diluted so the dust is held in the surface but remains porous until the concrete both cures fully and dries out makes sense to all but internet experts.

Google full curing time for concrete. You may be surprised.

Trapping a few hundred gallons of water under a floor smells fantastic in six months or so. Bit like old cat ****.
 
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Residual water from 3 gallons per meter on a 4 inch concrete base will take at least a year to dissipate. Sealing with a water resistant finish will slow the process indefinitely and risk vapour blowing the finish off the floor.
Applying a thin coat of PVA diluted so the dust is held in the surface but remains porous until the concrete both cures fully and dries out makes sense to all but internet experts.

Google full curing time for concrete. You may be surprised.

Trapping a few hundred gallons of water under a floor smells fantastic in six months or so. Bit like old cat ****.

:rolleyes: i agree about the water, that's why some floor paints say leave six months.

pva will go tacky when wet, that's why you use sbr in bathrooms, so the tiles don't drop off the wall when water gets behind.

easy to test op, do a small patch with a pva mix after the concrete has set, let the pva dry off and then drop some water on it and see if the pva goes tacky. then think what would happen if water or damp ever got under the top coat

edit: making it clear
 
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:rolleyes: i agree about the water, that's why some floor paints say leave six months.

pva will go tacky when wet, that's why you use sbr in bathrooms, so the tiles don't drop off the wall when water gets behind.

easy to test op, do a small patch with a pva mix after the concrete has set, let it dry off and then drop some water on it and see what happens.

Have to wait along time for it to dry off, if there is a water proof membrane under it. Other wise concrete never drys

http://www.randrmagonline.com/articles/83592-concrete-when-do-you-know-it-s-dry
 
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