Work Light Wiring

Hey chaps

Currently I have my work light wired to my rear window heater switch as I don't use the heater. I want to keep using this switch as its a neat location however I can only have it on whilst engine is running or with all the dash lights on which I don't like as I don't want to burn anything out,

so if I piggy backed into the positive going to the hazard switch instead will it still all work fine.

Any problems with this set up?

Cheers in advance

why dont u fit it its own switch? confused

Much better idea is to fit a relay and take the live feed off either the permanent live (purple IIRC) or from the reverse feed then you'll have a good reversingg light anorl.

I would be tempted to run a proper live, I have had experience with a circuit piggybacked onto the hazard always live, and if you have that circuit on and then switch on the hazards it will pop the fuse. It obviously depends on the load but I would run a dedicated fused live for this.

As above. Don't bodge it, run a dedicated (fused) feed from the battery.

Piggy backing can cause problems as has been said, its worth the hour or so running a dedicated feed to the switch rather than end up with rummaging around for fuses and being left without not just your working light but other stuff anorl. I've learnt that relays save you alot of hassle in the long run

Cheers people.

I am going to install another fuse box for this and other items in the future.

1. you dont know what has been 'piggybacked' further up the line
2.price of wires just run new lengths
relay and fuse it, if you get a 'dual input' replay or whatever the propper wording is you can have your switch and on the reverse light.

Can one relay run more than one item? I am just looking a fuse boxes most dont have room for a relay some have one space with say 6 fuses. I just want to ensure I buy the right one first time as I may want to add additional things in the future.

Cheers

You can get 1 relay to control 2 devices (at the same time) 1 replay, 2 sets of spots.
or 1 relay to control 2 inputs to one device. 1 spot, or work light, illimuniate via switch or reverse selection. Anything can run anything aslong as it has the correct ampage really. dont worry about the future, i think i have seen relays in 2 sizes, so if you do need to fit a 'double later, just pop the one you have in your spares box and get another. I am using the larger version of relay as then you always have room for teh small ones at a later date.

For the extra electrical bits i have just made a new fusebox behind the passanger seat, grab a plastic box from maplin @ the requried size, they also have (an halfrauds, marine shops and other electrical places) lil protected blade fuse boxes, i got a 6 port as thats all i need for now (always add another fuseboad on), pop the fuseboard into the box, 4 holes, 2 big 2 small (power in, power out, relay, earth). bam, done. goodluck

What he said ^^^^^

I ran a pair of large (25mm) cables directly from the battery to a pair of "bus bars" in a plastic box behind the passenger seat. The box also houses a "blade type" fuse holder. As I add bits and pieces to the Landy, it's a simple job to connect up one of the fuses and run a new pair of wires to whatever I'm powering. The reason for including a negative as well as a positive run is that the performance of things like spotlights is greatly affected by dodgy earth connections.

Ian