L322 - won't turn over / won't start...electrical issue!

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megd

Member
Posts
10
Location
Edinburgh
Wondered if anyone could help diagnose an L322 electrical issue...

All was well with my RR L322 3.6 TDV8, but then last weekend it started fine but I realised there was electrical issues, as the indicators weren't working at all - or hazards either. Anyway, was in a rush so switched cars and left it - when I came home few hours later the hazards were doing a slow flash (even tho it was sitting on driveway, unlocked, no key in). (!)

I disconnected the battery then, but when I went to start it next day it wouldn't start. So trickle charged the battery and did an ECU reset (i.e. touched negative to positive whilst disconnect from battery). Battery is now fully charged, and when first reconnected electrics all seem ok - ignition comes on, radio, blowers etc.....BUT, when you go to start it the entire car shuts down, without even turning-over. It's almost like it trips the entire thing electronically. After that, once you turn key off it won't even turn ignition back on again...nothing. If I disconnect then reconnect battery again then same thiing - ignition only is fine, but won't turnover and trips-out again when I try.

I have checked some of the fuses (can't actually find starter-motor specific fuse!?), but any ideas what the issue could be - or how I can fix it??

All help much appreciated! Cheers.
 

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Just a thought. Had a similar issue with daughter's Freelander. Before going to the expense of a full diagnostic check, have a look for the fuse that feeds the OBD2 plug. Everything worked on hers apart from the starter and fuel pump..( should be among the fuses inside)
 
Wondered if anyone could help diagnose an L322 electrical issue...

All was well with my RR L322 3.6 TDV8, but then last weekend it started fine but I realised there was electrical issues, as the indicators weren't working at all - or hazards either. Anyway, was in a rush so switched cars and left it - when I came home few hours later the hazards were doing a slow flash (even tho it was sitting on driveway, unlocked, no key in). (!)

I disconnected the battery then, but when I went to start it next day it wouldn't start. So trickle charged the battery and did an ECU reset (i.e. touched negative to positive whilst disconnect from battery). Battery is now fully charged, and when first reconnected electrics all seem ok - ignition comes on, radio, blowers etc.....BUT, when you go to start it the entire car shuts down, without even turning-over. It's almost like it trips the entire thing electronically. After that, once you turn key off it won't even turn ignition back on again...nothing. If I disconnect then reconnect battery again then same thiing - ignition only is fine, but won't turnover and trips-out again when I try.

I have checked some of the fuses (can't actually find starter-motor specific fuse!?), but any ideas what the issue could be - or how I can fix it??

All help much appreciated! Cheers.

First off welcome. Second my main experiences are the original L322 so may need different input. @Henry_b @kds @backinblack and anyone they can think of.
Can I just check , when you say "once you turn key off it won't even turn ignition back on again...nothing", do you mean key turns but all is dead OR will key not turn from insert position?
If it is the second, you may have a dodgy ignition coil reader.
Which leads into, which diagnostics are you using?
If you can give slightly more detailed description of issue, and readings from diagnostics it may help :)
 
Hi all - thanks for your replies and sorry for delay updating. Thought I had alerts switched on but weren't coming through.
Cheers for all your input tho - update is:
  • I decided to send it to local garage for initial check and they thought the starting issue was the key battery being low (it was only fault showing in diagnostics apparently). The second key worked and so I did the elastic-band trick to charge the first, and then it SEEMED to be solved....for about 48hrs!!
  • Then lights started playing up again, albeit no starting issues this time. It basically was looking like a fairground when running - headlights & rear lights blinking, indicators & hazards working/not working sporadically, or going fast/slow. And when car turned-off and locked the rear lights remained ON the entire time. Argh!!
  • Anyway, it's back in again now to local auto-electrician to take a look. They initially think it might be the LCM (seems logical to me) but want to take another look. If it is then I think I'll need a replacement, although I see you can find second-hand unit from ebay or scrap. Although this place don't sound keen on replacing it themselves....so I might be on the hunt for a RR/LR experienced electrican near Edinburgh if anyone can recommend??
So afraid no complete answer as yet....but I will update again when I get to the bottom of it all. Or if anyone has other ideas please do let me know.

And they say L322s have some electrical issues huh!
 
Hi all - thanks for your replies and sorry for delay updating. Thought I had alerts switched on but weren't coming through.
Cheers for all your input tho - update is:
  • I decided to send it to local garage for initial check and they thought the starting issue was the key battery being low (it was only fault showing in diagnostics apparently). The second key worked and so I did the elastic-band trick to charge the first, and then it SEEMED to be solved....for about 48hrs!!
  • Then lights started playing up again, albeit no starting issues this time. It basically was looking like a fairground when running - headlights & rear lights blinking, indicators & hazards working/not working sporadically, or going fast/slow. And when car turned-off and locked the rear lights remained ON the entire time. Argh!!
  • Anyway, it's back in again now to local auto-electrician to take a look. They initially think it might be the LCM (seems logical to me) but want to take another look. If it is then I think I'll need a replacement, although I see you can find second-hand unit from ebay or scrap. Although this place don't sound keen on replacing it themselves....so I might be on the hunt for a RR/LR experienced electrican near Edinburgh if anyone can recommend??
So afraid no complete answer as yet....but I will update again when I get to the bottom of it all. Or if anyone has other ideas please do let me know.

And they say L322s have some electrical issues huh!
Didn't @Saint.V8 have problems with the LCM on his? Hopefully he'll respond as I've tagged him.
 
LCM needs to be the correct one for the car depending on the lights i.e. LED, HiD etc. If you put a non LED version in one with LED's the lights will flash every so often when the LCM performs the bulb test although the test can be switched off with the right diags (I had this on my tail lights). The LCM also holds a backup of the mileage so if you get a used one with a higher mileage you will need to correct it quickly before the car changes to the higher mileage.
 
LCM needs to be the correct one for the car depending on the lights i.e. LED, HiD etc. If you put a non LED version in one with LED's the lights will flash every so often when the LCM performs the bulb test although the test can be switched off with the right diags (I had this on my tail lights). The LCM also holds a backup of the mileage so if you get a used one with a higher mileage you will need to correct it quickly before the car changes to the higher mileage.

Thanks @backinblack - all good to know so cheers. Sounds like I need a specialist to do a LCM switch then. Found this garage in Edinburgh who I was going to speak to - seems others on the forum have good reports so hoping they’ll be able to help.
https://www.whitesautoservices.com/
White's Auto Services
2 Washington Lane, Dalry, Edinburgh EH11 2HA
 
Thanks @backinblack - all good to know so cheers. Sounds like I need a specialist to do a LCM switch then. Found this garage in Edinburgh who I was going to speak to - seems others on the forum have good reports so hoping they’ll be able to help.
https://www.whitesautoservices.com/
White's Auto Services
2 Washington Lane, Dalry, Edinburgh EH11 2HA

I got a used one from ebay for the correct year and used BMW scanner 1.4 to correct the mileage but it was a bit of a pain. If you can get hold of one to try it's easy to change and see if the problem clears or not.
 
So I finally got the L322 back today from the electrician - they can't find anything wrong, and it's been working fine for them daily for the last week or so. o_O
They *think* it's probably water that got into some connections near the LCM - which does make sense as the light issue first happened after driving in really heavy rain. (And it's been dry recently.) But they've looked everywhere, and no big sign of water damage on or around LCM or anywhere else apparently - which I guess is good news.
So my plan is to use it for a while and see how things go. But also TRY to fix any potential leaks; and the roof gutter stip is loose on the driver's side (see below), so I'm hoping that could be the issue. Tomorrow I'm going to try to secure this down better (glue it down, but any tips let me know!) and see how things go.
I've also found the sunroof drain inlets which look clear, but not yet found the exits in the footwell so again going to try and find / clear them tomorrow.
Fingers crossed hey!
Roof Gutter Trim 2.jpg Roof Gutter Trim 1.jpg
 
Hmm, so I’ve still not sorted this issue out. I have now sealed that piece of roof trim and had a few weeks of fine motoring (& fine weather), then it poured with rain on Monday which I thought would be a great test. It was fine initially, but then today (Thursday) same issue again!! Rear lights come on when left unattended (locked or unlocked) and now indicators and hazards don’t work at all. I managed to get my hand right in and around the LCM and it feels completely dry tho!
So would appreciate any thoughts on:
A) How do you remove the trim around LCM / footwell so I can take a proper look?
B) Might there be any other electrics that could be getting wet - or is it really going to be LCM related?
Any help much appreciated. Cheers.
 
On my 04 model LCM is behind right hand (drivers) side trim, lift the door tread plate and side trim slides out towards back of car you have to remove panel above pedals from memory I had the headlights flicker (like flashing main beam) cleaned the LCM connections and all good since.
 
That's great, thanks @kds - sounds like same placement of LCM so will give it a go when I can & report back. My full-beams are flickering right now too, so hoping I at least find some water to indicate that's the issue.
 
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Update from today...
Had a good look all around LCM (managed it just removing the treadplate and side trim & loosened panel above pedals) and couldn't find any wetness at all. So decided to take a look from the other side (i.e. the wheelarch). Found two issues:
  1. the hose which runs down from the corner of the wiper water collection tray goes all the way behind the wheel arch. At the bottom there seems to be a clip to ensure it exits downwards onto the wheel arch liner, but mine was not in the clip and therefore all water collected by the wipers was pouring straight onto an electrical box (not sure what the box is - any ideas?). So I've now put this back so water flows downwards properly. [Pic 1 & 2 below]
  2. tracing upwards, I realised that the grommet by the wiper mechanism on that same side was very loose and I think the hose was leaking slightly at the very top too. [Pic 3] When tested this meant water was pouring right down over all the wires underneath - and of course that's exactly where the loom comes in/out to meet the Light Check Module (LCM)! I've now glued the stuck the grommet back [Pic 4] and sealed all around the top of the hose, so water poured in now flows right through.
So I'm HOPING that's the issue fixed. I'm not driving it again for a week or so, but if it happens again I'm going to be quicker checking the LCM again and see if any fresh signs of moisture.
Thanks again for all the advice.
IMG_0319.jpg IMG_0321.jpg IMG_0328.jpg IMG_0341.jpg
 
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