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Wolf 110 tub lift and/or removal.

Discussion in '101's and Military' started by Wolf Pack, Sep 14, 2021.

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  1. Wolf Pack

    Wolf Pack Active Member

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    I now need to pull the tub, although just lifting it 8 inches would do for now.

    So far, I can see:

    2 rows of Torx screws in the bed

    2 outriggers on each side

    Fuel filler pipe

    What have I missed please?
     
  2. v8250

    v8250 Well-Known Member

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    Zed. and Wolf Pack like this.
  3. Beneagles

    Beneagles Well-Known Member Full Member

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    Quite possibly an earth strap as well.
    :)
     
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  4. Wolf Pack

    Wolf Pack Active Member

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    I haven't seen one. Where might it be if there is one please?
     
  5. Beneagles

    Beneagles Well-Known Member Full Member

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    Don't know the specifics of your vehicle...I just know that my Series 3 tub had an earth to the chassis near the rear n/s corner. Also 2 metal straps from chassis to the front edge of the tub. None of these were mentioned in any of the diagrams that I looked at before starting...but they were there anyway!
    Happy hunting!
    :)
     
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  6. v8250

    v8250 Well-Known Member

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    Earth straps/wires are found...
    1. rear lights - behind wiring box covers
    2. front light - earth per under wing corner
    3. engine - earth cable from engine to chassis
    4. gearbox - earth cable from gearbox to battery -Ve
    + any others hidden for other components - but there shouldn't be any others for lifting the tub only.
     
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  7. Wolf Pack

    Wolf Pack Active Member

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    The inboard n/s vertical bolt is spinning, which is why I need to at least lift the tub, if not remove it.

    Is the tub a 4-man lift once it's free?
     
  8. v8250

    v8250 Well-Known Member

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    Cut/drill out the bolt. Four men makes the tub easier to lift.
     
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  9. Wolf Pack

    Wolf Pack Active Member

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    I can't drill it because it's up and behind the cross member. Can't get it there to centre punch it, or clamp it.

    Any and all ideas much appreciated!

    I'm thinking that undoing all the fixings and (somehow) jacking it up will give me access to the spinning bolt.

    being new here and even new back in this country, I don't know anyone here that I can ask for help, so it's me and my two teenage (and seriously disinterested) sons.
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2021
  10. v8250

    v8250 Well-Known Member

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    Okay, undo all other fixings - jack up tub to reveal gap between tub and x-member til bolt under firm tension. Hacksaw through bolt

    eta - tell sons it's part of their "life education" to learn this stuff. My son loves tinkering on my cars and using rotovators/chainsaws/power drills/lawn mowers/chopping axes et al.
     
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  11. Wolf Pack

    Wolf Pack Active Member

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    The bolt is the inboard item 16 in this diagram.

    Awkward bugger:
     

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  12. v8250

    v8250 Well-Known Member

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  13. Wolf Pack

    Wolf Pack Active Member

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    I do have the DeWalt version, but I haven't used it yet.

    Working on my back with it all falling on my head makes a tub lift preferable, tbh.
     
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2021
  14. Wolf Pack

    Wolf Pack Active Member

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    Because of this b@$!@(d:
     

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  15. Wolf Pack

    Wolf Pack Active Member

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    Looks like there's also a line of bolts between the seat box and the rear tub as well, so maybe a local FB ad for Rent-a-Mob after I have it all undone.

    Working on this outside will be fun this winter...
     
  16. v8250

    v8250 Well-Known Member

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    Buy a 6m x 3.5m car tent, add a few layers of 1200 dpm + 18mm marine ply for a dry/warm workable flat floor. It's really worth getting the thicker industrial type units. Run some electricity and put up some LED strip lighting. They're great to work in in all weathers...
     
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  17. v8250

    v8250 Well-Known Member

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    ps can really recommend a couple of mechanics thick yoga type work mats - I have a couple of these and they really look after the old bones
     
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  18. Wolf Pack

    Wolf Pack Active Member

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    Interesting that you advise that.
    I missed an absolute peach for £200 recently and it was inflatable and ex-MOD.
    What is 1200dpm please?
     
  19. v8250

    v8250 Well-Known Member

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    I've seen those inflatable workshop type tents, they're jolly expensive to buy new. dpm is a 'damp proof membrane', the 1200 is the grade of dpm...buy it in rolls from Screwfix...it's thick plastic sheeting and is used under concrete slabs and many other construction applications to simply keep out damp. In my tent I bought a roll 3x tent internal length and wider than the tent :. 3600dpm. Laid out the 3x layers and raised the sides to form a 'bath tub', then laid marine ply directly on top - this gives a strong flat surface to work from, use trolley jacks, axle stands et al. Plus the marine ply is excellent at soaking up oil spills and other fluids if accidentally spilt.

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/capital-...amp-proof-membrane-black-1200ga-25-x-4m/47163

    There's near zero humidity in the tent, it's bone dry even in very humid external conditions. Sometimes there's a light condensation on the inside of the tent roof but never on/in/under the Land Rover. When this happens I open the air vent at the front and a couple of the rear end wall elastic bungies for increased airflow and it's very quickly dry. This is the tent:

    https://www.houseoftents.co.uk/portable-garage/49680.html

    House of Tents [Toolport tent brand] are struggling with supplies from, I'm guessing, China. Other thick PVC UV stable tents are available from https://www.dancovershop.com/uk/products/portable-garages-6.1.aspx but be careful with the height of the door access as many are too low for a Land Rover -mine especially as I've an external roll cage which makes its peak height 2.25m on std 16" wheels and std height suspension. If going down this road buy the best you can afford with the thickest of material.
     
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  20. Wolf Pack

    Wolf Pack Active Member

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    Something like this, maybe?

    Are Clarke a decent brand?
     

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