Wiring woes. Losing the will to live.

If it has a 200tdi, this won't make any difference to the gauges, they will stay the same.
Have you tried another earth to the tank to see if that is the issue, rubber mount and paint could kill earth connection.

That's the td5 one, see it goes through the speedo. Guessing something similar for tdi

alexc2701 said:

You could either source a matching sender and guage fit a custom vdo guage or trial diffirent resistors. If yours is wired direct to the guage from sender I believe it is incorrect. There has to be a damper between the guage and the sender or it will bob up and down when you go around corners. I know on the td5 set this is worked through the speedo. If you check the diagram that matches to your guages guessing tdi set? ?? I think they'll need something similar which will probably make it settle at 0 for 0. If you can connect the sender wire to the correct pin on the instrument cluster loom and reconnect the guage wiring from that it might work? Don't know how your setup is to say if it's all custom wired you'll need to sort out. A plain resistor won't work on own like for the temp sender tho cos bobbing

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I think I'm understanding (kind of), I'm not electrically minded, bodywork is my fortè. None of it worked when I bought it so I've no idea how it should be. The 3 wires from the sender go to a multi plug on the engine side of the bulkhead and then up to the gauges. I do have another loom that I could cast my eye over to work out how it should be (if that one hasn't been modified). I do have a Haynes with the relevant wiring diagram, but I thought the wires went from sender to gauge with nothing inbetween. I'll have another look at it tomorrow. This is the first I've heard of something in between the sender and gauge so I haven't actually been looking for anything else, just trying to make it work with what I've got. It does make sense though, like you said, as it is the fuel gauge will constantly move whilst the diesel moves around in the tank.

Thanks!

Gmacz said:

If it has a 200tdi, this won't make any difference to the gauges, they will stay the same.
Have you tried another earth to the tank to see if that is the issue, rubber mount and paint could kill earth connection.

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I've had an earth straight from the battery onto the sender and it's no different. I currently have it earthed to the same place as the diff lock switch (as that's were it was before hand) and that works perfect so the earth is good.

Ash2304 said:

I think I'm understanding (kind of), I'm not electrically minded, bodywork is my fortè. None of it worked when I bought it so I've no idea how it should be. The 3 wires from the sender go to a multi plug on the engine side of the bulkhead and then up to the gauges. I do have another loom that I could cast my eye over to work out how it should be (if that one hasn't been modified). I do have a Haynes with the relevant wiring diagram, but I thought the wires went from sender to gauge with nothing inbetween. I'll have another look at it tomorrow. This is the first I've heard of something in between the sender and gauge so I haven't actually been looking for anything else, just trying to make it work with what I've got. It does make sense though, like you said, as it is the fuel gauge will constantly move whilst the diesel moves around in the tank.

Thanks!

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I might be wrong the old ones could be diffirent maybe has inbuilt and a resistor will work? Like said I put td5 ones in mine. If I were you I'd fit a td5 set, you can actually read and see them no annoying bulbs to blow and really easy to do no wobbly speedos either

alexc2701 said:

I might be wrong the old ones could be diffirent maybe has inbuilt and a resistor will work? Like said I put td5 ones in mine. If I were you I'd fit a td5 set, you can actually read and see them no annoying bulbs to blow and really easy to do no wobbly speedos either

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It may be a thing to do in the future. Getting it back together and working is the plan at the moment. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel and little things keep holding the job up unfortunately. The low fuel light works, so if needs be that can be my indicator to fill up for the time being.

Ash2304 said:

It may be a thing to do in the future. Getting it back together and working is the plan at the moment. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel and little things keep holding the job up unfortunately. The low fuel light works, so if needs be that can be my indicator to fill up for the time being.

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Dipstick through the seatbox
I know your woes though the loom I got (was told was good) no end of problems and hacks about. Was confused when tried to do glowplug warning light took me an age to notice it had no glowplug wiring! Chopped that much. It doesn't really need it they're good on cold starts but ima put it in when I get back to it

alexc2701 said:

Dipstick through the seatbox
I know your woes though the loom I got (was told was good) no end of problems and hacks about. Was confused when tried to do glowplug warning light took me an age to notice it had no glowplug wiring! Chopped that much. It doesn't really need it they're good on cold starts but ima put it in when I get back to it

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Would be reliable at least!

I think most of them on the road nowadays have had the looms chopped and modified unfortunately. I found one of the plugs for running a fridge or something along them lines, aftermarket alarms and door sensors (none of which worked). I wouldn't care if people did a proper job with plugs and connectors but they strip wires, twist them together and just hope they don't touch each other it seems!

Ash2304 said:

Would be reliable at least!

I think most of them on the road nowadays have had the looms chopped and modified unfortunately. I found one of the plugs for running a fridge or something along them lines, aftermarket alarms and door sensors (none of which worked). I wouldn't care if people did a proper job with plugs and connectors but they strip wires, twist them together and just hope they don't touch each other it seems!

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Don't get me started on odd chops my White red from ignition went to yellow black plug wire to a black, to a red to the starter solenoid all twisted and no plug wiring at all. The ecu all gone from the 300 tdi all the light wiring was wrong all the instrent cluster wiring was just cut none of colours matched... was.... fun for some reason hazard switch turns off indicators but doesn't make all flash
Etc I gave up just gana run new looms for what's missing and make myself and put in heated seats window motors and central locking too. Wish I'd ripped it out and started again lol

It's all the fun of owning a landy right

It'd be more fun if I'd known that'd be like that it's crap when sneaks up! On top of all the rest that needs doing. I'm enjoying it enough ima get another when I've done this though learned loads!
Either a series or a 110 next time

Pull sender and work it manually, see if gauge matches position of sender.

Gmacz said:

Pull sender and work it manually, see if gauge matches position of sender.

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That's the problem. With the sender out of the tank..

Empty fuel tank means gauge at 3/4 full with fuel light on

Increasing the position of the sender the gauge moves up and beyond full and the light turns off when it should.

Back to empty, the gauge moves back to 3/4 and not below.

I'll mull over the wiring and diagrams tomorrow and see how I get on

alexc2701 said:

It'd be more fun if I'd known that'd be like that it's crap when sneaks up! On top of all the rest that needs doing. I'm enjoying it enough ima get another when I've done this though learned loads!
Either a series or a 110 next time

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I keep telling myself that I'll do another one but I don't know if I can be bothered putting all the hours in again straight away, it takes over your life haha. I think I'll run my 90 for a short while and then decide. But on the other hand I wouldn't want to part with it after all of the work I've put in and knowing it's got a galvanised chassis and It's now been worked on to a high standard. Like you say though, it's been a massive learning curve and very rewarding. In the coming years I'll be looking to have my own body shop and I would seriously consider moving into turning land rovers into something special and making a living out of it.

I would Also love a 110 double cab

Ash2304 said:

I keep telling myself that I'll do another one but I don't know if I can be bothered putting all the hours in again straight away, it takes over your life haha. I think I'll run my 90 for a short while and then decide. But on the other hand I wouldn't want to part with it after all of the work I've put in and knowing it's got a galvanised chassis and It's now been worked on to a high standard. Like you say though, it's been a massive learning curve and very rewarding. In the coming years I'll be looking to have my own body shop and I would seriously consider moving into turning land rovers into something special and making a living out of it.

I would Also love a 110 double cab

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I'd love to do em up for a living! Not a mechanic though just play at it haha learn as go.
Gana do this up and get painted etc it'll be a one of a kind really 300 galv chassis tdci bulkhead td5 body disco box should be awesome then maybe get a cheaper one that I wouldn't be as afraid of hurting it offroading haha. Doubt I'll sell like you say too many hours! Might wait till move to get another.. need a bigger garage haha

Ash2304 said:

Me again. Hoping people can help with some new issues.

Fuel gauge.... I've got a new sender, ran a new wire direct to the gauge itself and still doesn't work as it should. On 'empty' it says it's around 3/4 full. And then














moves off the scale when it increases. I've tried another second hand gauge which is exactly the same. I've also put the wires onto the back of the temp gauge and it does the same thing, albeit starting at around half a tank not 3/4.

Second issue is when putting main beam(high beam) on, the blue symbol doesn't light on the dash. I've swapped bulbs and holders for one that works and still doesn't work.

Any ideas please

Thanks

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Have same problem with my 101 main blue light bulb works but can't be seen when in cluster,took the cluster out cleaned inside the base of the blue lens shone a torch through and all OK put back together still can't see it although haven't tried at night.
Had same problem with fuel gauge reading half when empty cleaned and tested v\stabaliser then found a loose earth on back of instrument cluster working fine now