wiring loom.....strange request

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
On Wednesday, in article
<[email protected]>
[email protected]sm "GbH" wrote:

> My attempts at such rewiring have ben less than satisfactory, mainly in the
> soldering of connectors. I used standard 60/40 electronics muticore solder. My
> experience suggests the flux is not up to vehicle type environments. the
> connectors fell off after a year or two. actually the end of the wire corroded
> away after a year or two. I would recommend using crimp connectors, mostly these
> come with sleeving anyway.


Soldering is not usually recommended, as the wire tends to fail at the
point where the solder ends.



--
David G. Bell -- SF Fan, Filker, and Punslinger.

"History shows that the Singularity started when Sir Tim Berners-Lee
was bitten by a radioactive spider."
 
In news:[email protected],
"David G. Bell" <[email protected]> blithered:
> On Wednesday, in article
> <[email protected]>
> [email protected]sm "GbH" wrote:
>
>> My attempts at such rewiring have ben less than satisfactory, mainly
>> in the soldering of connectors. I used standard 60/40 electronics
>> muticore solder. My experience suggests the flux is not up to
>> vehicle type environments. the connectors fell off after a year or
>> two. actually the end of the wire corroded away after a year or two.
>> I would recommend using crimp connectors, mostly these come with
>> sleeving anyway.

>
> Soldering is not usually recommended, as the wire tends to fail at the
> point where the solder ends.


Isn't that what I said happened?

--
UR SHGb02+14 &ICMFP
If at first you don't succeed,
maybe skydiving's not a good idea!


 

"EMB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> GbH wrote:
>

<snip>
> Go and wash your mouth out - crimp connectors are an invention worthy of
> Joe Lucas. They are only available in 2 types - bad ones and worse
> ones. They're not bad if you crimp & solder them, but that sort of
> defeats the purpose.
>

Hmmmmm.... The vast majority of aircraft wiring is all crimped, whether at
terminal strips or the connectors to gauges etc or the contacts inside
multiplugs. A lot of this wiring is in relatively exposed areas (engine
bays, undercarriage bays etc) and they don't suffer from crimps failing or
becoming loose, any more than the odd occasion. (read very rare when
compared to hours flown). In 1 year I have seen only one crimped connector
fail, that was on an engine harness just a week or so ago! Bugger of an
indication fault to trace, mind!

--
Badger.
B.H.Engineering,
Rover V8 engine specialists.

now live but still under construction,
www.bhengineering.co.uk
www.roverv8engines.com
www.roverv8engines.co.uk



 
Badger wrote:

> Hmmmmm.... The vast majority of aircraft wiring is all crimped, whether at
> terminal strips or the connectors to gauges etc or the contacts inside
> multiplugs. A lot of this wiring is in relatively exposed areas (engine
> bays, undercarriage bays etc) and they don't suffer from crimps failing or
> becoming loose, any more than the odd occasion. (read very rare when
> compared to hours flown). In 1 year I have seen only one crimped connector
> fail, that was on an engine harness just a week or so ago! Bugger of an
> indication fault to trace, mind!


Agreed. One of the worst faults I have found was in one of my
instruments, where the overcrimping of the insulation had sheared the
wires just on the entry to the crimp. 100% on test it was fine,but 1% on
site it went wrong. Sod of a thing to spot.

Steve
 
yes please.

"Alex" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >>
> >> For example: Did you know that if you short a headlamp out on a IIa it
> >> burns the wiring loom out?
> >>
> >> Alex

>
> >this is scary!!!!
> >

>
> Well, have a look at the S2 wiring diagram. There's only one fuse in
> it, and it doesn't do a lot. It's also rated at 30 amps, and most of
> the wiring after the fuse isn't gonna take that kind of load for very
> long.
>
> Oh, and you know those two test sockets on the dash? They're unfused
> as well, don't go poking things in them.
>
> >ok, home made loom to original spec is out!!
> >but isn't a pre-fabricted one from autosparks going to be the same or do
> >they improve it and add extra fuses?

>
> I dunno, you could ask them I suppose.
>
> >
> >OR
> >
> >do as Alex says, make my own and add extra "safety" features.... does
> >anybody have a modifed wiring diagram with the extra fuses, etc... they
> >would be willing to share?
> >
> >btw thanks for all the advice so far.... more questions to come soon ;-)
> >

>
> I could send you the wiring diagram I used for mine, but i'm afraid
> you'll have to wait untill I get around to updating the original on
> the computer. The current one I have is rather a messy scribble on an
> older diagram, I've been modifying things as I go along, as usual.
>
> Alex



 
On Thursday, in article
<[email protected]>
[email protected]sm "GbH" wrote:

> In news:[email protected],
> "David G. Bell" <[email protected]> blithered:
> > On Wednesday, in article
> > <[email protected]>
> > [email protected]sm "GbH" wrote:
> >
> >> My attempts at such rewiring have ben less than satisfactory, mainly
> >> in the soldering of connectors. I used standard 60/40 electronics
> >> muticore solder. My experience suggests the flux is not up to
> >> vehicle type environments. the connectors fell off after a year or
> >> two. actually the end of the wire corroded away after a year or two.
> >> I would recommend using crimp connectors, mostly these come with
> >> sleeving anyway.

> >
> > Soldering is not usually recommended, as the wire tends to fail at the
> > point where the solder ends.

>
> Isn't that what I said happened?


Sorry, I wasn't clear. It was described to me as mechanical failure
arising from the different flexing behaviour of soldered multi-strand
wire, compared to a crimped joint.

--
David G. Bell -- SF Fan, Filker, and Punslinger.

"History shows that the Singularity started when Sir Tim Berners-Lee
was bitten by a radioactive spider."
 

"Tom Woods" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 7 Sep 2004 20:36:43 +0100, "rav_k" <[email protected]> wrote:

<snip>
> I've rewired 3 landies so far.
>
> Starting from scratch, and making a new loom with a proper fuse box
> and lots of extra bits in it (like proper headlamp, spotlamp and
> worklamp feeds with relays, and more dasboard stuff) I reckon it is a
> weeks worth of evenings work (first one took me longer!), and the bits
> cost me £50-£60 quid.
>
> For that i'd end up with 4 or 5 different colours of wire of varying
> sizes, and a new blade fuse box, and some 7 core cable.
> (http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/ is a good place to look)
>

got a catalouge from the above. on the note of suppliers, theres a maplins
opening up by me soon, has anybody used them?

> If you do end up making one, just sit down and look at the standard LR
> diagram (in the haynes book it is only one page!). then start thinking
> about what else to add. Work out on a bit of paper what you want to
> fuse and where you want to locate any relays or flasher units. I have
> relocated all my fuse boxes inside as it is less messy (meaning less
> oil/mud/water splashing)
> I wouldnt bother copying the landy one. everytime ive worked through
> it ive noticed how if one thing goes wrong loads of other things will
> die too!. Just use it as a basis for your plans.
>


been thinking about this today at work and a fuse box in "glove box" are by
the wiper motor is looking likely.
but what do i fuse and what do i relay? i was thinking about having a look
at the way my daily driver is setup (vw golf) and getting an idea from
there. e.g. fuse ratings, what relayed.... any pointers greatly appreciated

> 7 core trailer cable is a nice easy, cheap and tidy way to do things
> like the loom from front to back, and also the rest of the lights. You
> can get a small reel.


didn't think of this.... but not a bad idea... how much of the wiring could
be done with this?
>
> Wrapping it all with tape makes it tidy and stronger. If possible
> leave the wrapping till last as you will surely think of things that
> you have forgotten!. You can use small loops of insulating tape to
> hold it togther in the mean time.
>

i'm now thinking of building the new one on top of the existing and loosely
cable tying the new cable over the old to get an idea of lengths, make the
necessary alterations as i go

> Where it isnt possible to use different coloured cable make sure you
> label stuff properly! (ive used white insulating tape which you can
> write on)

another good idea, up till now i've been using masking tape, but that seems
to get oily and messy fairly quickly...

> Good luck!
>

thanks, i'm gona needs loads


 
>For that i'd end up with 4 or 5 different colours of wire of varying
>sizes, and a new blade fuse box, and some 7 core cable.
>(http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/ is a good place to look)


snip

>Where it isnt possible to use different coloured cable make sure you
>label stuff properly! (ive used white insulating tape which you can
>write on)


Since the 'proper' colours are readily available from the likes of
the source above, I will always try and use them.

Nick
 
On 09 Sep 2004 17:25:22 GMT, [email protected] (Nicknelsonleeds)
wrote:

>>For that i'd end up with 4 or 5 different colours of wire of varying
>>sizes, and a new blade fuse box, and some 7 core cable.
>>(http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/ is a good place to look)

>
>snip
>
>>Where it isnt possible to use different coloured cable make sure you
>>label stuff properly! (ive used white insulating tape which you can
>>write on)

>
>Since the 'proper' colours are readily available from the likes of
>the source above, I will always try and use them.


It gets a bit expensive if you buy lots of reels of the proper colours
(you need a lot of colours!), and its a bit of a logisitical challenge
to work out exactly what lengths of each colour you need before you
start if you decide to buy it per metre.
It would be much nicer to have lots of colours available, but i dont
think i could manage that unless i made wiring looms for a living and
could justify it!

 
On Thu, 9 Sep 2004 18:18:33 +0100, "rav_k" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> For that i'd end up with 4 or 5 different colours of wire of varying
>> sizes, and a new blade fuse box, and some 7 core cable.
>> (http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/ is a good place to look)
>>

>got a catalouge from the above. on the note of suppliers, theres a maplins
>opening up by me soon, has anybody used them?


I use them. Theres one near me, so its convenient. They dont do much
specifically automotive wiring, but do sell wire..
I like their 'high current wire', which is rated to 30A, and a 50m
reel costs £12. Great for things like lights, amps and glowplugs!
(could be slight overkill, but its convenient)

Dont bother trying to buy crimp connectors from them though, as the
one here never has shielded ones in stock.

>been thinking about this today at work and a fuse box in "glove box" are by
>the wiper motor is looking likely.


Thats where i put mine.

>but what do i fuse and what do i relay? i was thinking about having a look
>at the way my daily driver is setup (vw golf) and getting an idea from
>there. e.g. fuse ratings, what relayed.... any pointers greatly appreciated


You should relay anything that uses a lot of amps. Headlights,
spotlights, diesel glow plugs and electric cooling fans come to mind.

How much you want to fuse is up to you!.
I've used the 12fuse boxes on the ones ive done i think. From memory.
mine has in the fuse box:

interior lights, dash lights + fag lighter socket(s)
ignition (also feeds stuff like the solenoids, and the switching side
of the various relays)
wipers + squirters
indicators
sidelights
spotlights
headlights

then lots of spaces for future expansion, and on the go bodging! :)

I think that i generally started with lots of 5 and 10A fuses and
increased them where necessary! (Things like having hazard lights on +
braking can show up limitations in fuse choice!)
You can get resettable fuses which might be useful for testing

>> 7 core trailer cable is a nice easy, cheap and tidy way to do things
>> like the loom from front to back, and also the rest of the lights. You
>> can get a small reel.

>
>didn't think of this.... but not a bad idea... how much of the wiring could
>be done with this?


I used crimp connectors on mine, you can buy 2 and 4 way junctions to
join them all together. I chose to join all mine behind the dash. From
here I ran a piece of 7 core to one back corner, then it came back out
of that corner and over to the other back corner.
From behind the dash i also ran another bit of 7 core out to once
front corner, which then went to the other corner..

>> Wrapping it all with tape makes it tidy and stronger. If possible
>> leave the wrapping till last as you will surely think of things that
>> you have forgotten!. You can use small loops of insulating tape to
>> hold it togther in the mean time.
>>

>i'm now thinking of building the new one on top of the existing and loosely
>cable tying the new cable over the old to get an idea of lengths, make the
>necessary alterations as i go


ive always used the haynes book as a sort of guide. When you actually
start looking at it you realise how crappy the wiring intentionally
is!

>> Where it isnt possible to use different coloured cable make sure you
>> label stuff properly! (ive used white insulating tape which you can
>> write on)

> another good idea, up till now i've been using masking tape, but that seems
>to get oily and messy fairly quickly...


And it falls off easier leaving you with wiring spagetti!
>
>> Good luck!
>>

>thanks, i'm gona needs loads
>


 
On Thursday, in article
<[email protected]>
[email protected] "rav_k" wrote:

> got a catalouge from the above. on the note of suppliers, theres a maplins
> opening up by me soon, has anybody used them?


Maplins are useful for odds and ends, and do sometimes have stuff you
wouldn't have thought of, but a good auto-electrics specialist is the
better option.

The catalogues are worth having.

--
David G. Bell -- SF Fan, Filker, and Punslinger.

"History shows that the Singularity started when Sir Tim Berners-Lee
was bitten by a radioactive spider."
 
On 09 Sep, in article
<[email protected]>
[email protected] "Nicknelsonleeds" wrote:

> >For that i'd end up with 4 or 5 different colours of wire of varying
> >sizes, and a new blade fuse box, and some 7 core cable.
> >(http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/ is a good place to look)

>
> snip
>
> >Where it isnt possible to use different coloured cable make sure you
> >label stuff properly! (ive used white insulating tape which you can
> >write on)

>
> Since the 'proper' colours are readily available from the likes of
> the source above, I will always try and use them.


You can also get better labels than writing on a bit of tape.

--
David G. Bell -- SF Fan, Filker, and Punslinger.

"History shows that the Singularity started when Sir Tim Berners-Lee
was bitten by a radioactive spider."
 
David G. Bell wrote:

> On Thursday, in article
> <[email protected]>
> [email protected] "Tom Woods" wrote:
>
>> interior lights, dash lights + fag lighter socket(s)

>
> The lighter socket I fitted to my lightweight is in parallel with the
> two "inspection light" sockets fitted as standard. I would be inclined
> to wire all these on a seperate circuit from the battery, with an in-
> line fuse. Based on other stuff I've seen designed to run from a
> lighter socket, a 10A fuse should be enough.
>
> A note on bullet connectors -- I don't know if there is a standard, but
> where I can I wire the "live" side of a joint with a receptacle. No
> bare metal at battery voltage.
>
>


I've wired in a 4 gang cigarette lighter socket set to my car - they're tied
into a 15A fuse in a blade box using 16AWG wiring. The fuse panel itself
is tied back to a big gold distribution block over 8AWG cable - the
distribution block is tied back to the secondary battery through a 100A
breaker using 4AWG cable.

Quite a useful little setup.

P.

--
The email address above is real.

http://www.geekstuff.tv/Landies/
 
On Thu, 09 Sep 2004 21:07:27 +0100 (BST), [email protected]
("David G. Bell") wrote:

>On 09 Sep, in article
> <[email protected]>
> [email protected] "Nicknelsonleeds" wrote:
>
>> >For that i'd end up with 4 or 5 different colours of wire of varying
>> >sizes, and a new blade fuse box, and some 7 core cable.
>> >(http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/ is a good place to look)

>>
>> snip
>>
>> >Where it isnt possible to use different coloured cable make sure you
>> >label stuff properly! (ive used white insulating tape which you can
>> >write on)

>>
>> Since the 'proper' colours are readily available from the likes of
>> the source above, I will always try and use them.

>
>You can also get better labels than writing on a bit of tape.


where from?. I wanted some but couldnt find any.

No shops locally could help me, and vehicle wiring products dont seem
to list any.

I wanted some like my 101 has (printed on little bands that go round
the wires), with numbers and letter on
 
In news:[email protected],
Tom Woods <[email protected]> blithered:
> On Thu, 09 Sep 2004 21:07:27 +0100 (BST), [email protected]
> ("David G. Bell") wrote:
>
>> On 09 Sep, in article
>> <[email protected]>
>> [email protected] "Nicknelsonleeds" wrote:
>>
>>>> For that i'd end up with 4 or 5 different colours of wire of
>>>> varying sizes, and a new blade fuse box, and some 7 core cable.
>>>> (http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/ is a good place to look)
>>>
>>> snip
>>>
>>>> Where it isnt possible to use different coloured cable make sure
>>>> you label stuff properly! (ive used white insulating tape which
>>>> you can write on)
>>>
>>> Since the 'proper' colours are readily available from the likes of
>>> the source above, I will always try and use them.

>>
>> You can also get better labels than writing on a bit of tape.

>
> where from?. I wanted some but couldnt find any.
>
> No shops locally could help me, and vehicle wiring products dont seem
> to list any.
>
> I wanted some like my 101 has (printed on little bands that go round
> the wires), with numbers and letter on



Maplin under self adhesive wire markers
--
UR SHGb02+14 &ICMFP
If at first you don't succeed,
maybe skydiving's not for you!


 
On or around Fri, 10 Sep 2004 14:17:14 +0100, Tom Woods
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>On Thu, 09 Sep 2004 21:07:27 +0100 (BST), [email protected]
>("David G. Bell") wrote:
>
>>On 09 Sep, in article
>> <[email protected]>
>> [email protected] "Nicknelsonleeds" wrote:
>>
>>> >For that i'd end up with 4 or 5 different colours of wire of varying
>>> >sizes, and a new blade fuse box, and some 7 core cable.
>>> >(http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/ is a good place to look)
>>>
>>> snip
>>>
>>> >Where it isnt possible to use different coloured cable make sure you
>>> >label stuff properly! (ive used white insulating tape which you can
>>> >write on)
>>>
>>> Since the 'proper' colours are readily available from the likes of
>>> the source above, I will always try and use them.

>>
>>You can also get better labels than writing on a bit of tape.

>
>where from?. I wanted some but couldnt find any.
>
>No shops locally could help me, and vehicle wiring products dont seem
>to list any.
>
>I wanted some like my 101 has (printed on little bands that go round
>the wires), with numbers and letter on


they're cute, ain' they. I bet you have to be the MoD in order to buy 'em
though. Got 'em on the big trailer, which is ex-nato, swedish built but
probably in service in Germany, wot with stuff like "Max. Last" stencilled
on it.

'course, if you have decent *permanent* (I assume they're heatshrunk on)
labelling, you only need the one colour of wire, so long as you make a good
wiring diagram which has the labelling on it and make sure you actually *do*
label all the connection points, not only the ones at the ends.

A good tip, not always followed by manufacturers IME, is to have a means of
separating the loom (muti-way rubber bullet blocks are probably best) on
*both* sides of joints going across hinges (wiring into doors, principally)
'cos if it's going to fail the chances are that the bit where it bends
around the hinge will be where it does, then you can unplug the little bit
across the hinge and replace it easily. On my 110 it was a pain as there
was no such break in the back door wiring (heated screen plus rear wash
wipe, total of about 7 wires) and it meant making joints both sides. If you
designed it in, you can be sure it won't fail :)

 
On or around 10 Sep 2004 13:31:47 GMT, Simon Barr <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>In article <[email protected]>, Tom Woods wrote:
>>
>> I wanted some like my 101 has (printed on little bands that go round
>> the wires), with numbers and letter on

>
>
>Like this?
>
>http://makeashorterlink.com/?V2D035349


not quite, but they're functionally the same and have the advantage that
they can be fitted retrospectively.
 
On Fri, 10 Sep 2004 17:49:32 +0100, Austin Shackles
<[email protected]> wrote:

>>I wanted some like my 101 has (printed on little bands that go round
>>the wires), with numbers and letter on

>
>they're cute, ain' they. I bet you have to be the MoD in order to buy 'em
>though. Got 'em on the big trailer, which is ex-nato, swedish built but
>probably in service in Germany, wot with stuff like "Max. Last" stencilled
>on it.


The 101 only has numbers. they wouldnt want the wiring to be too easy
to understand!
>
>'course, if you have decent *permanent* (I assume they're heatshrunk on)
>labelling, you only need the one colour of wire, so long as you make a good
>wiring diagram which has the labelling on it and make sure you actually *do*
>label all the connection points, not only the ones at the ends.
>
>A good tip, not always followed by manufacturers IME, is to have a means of
>separating the loom (muti-way rubber bullet blocks are probably best) on
>*both* sides of joints going across hinges (wiring into doors, principally)
>'cos if it's going to fail the chances are that the bit where it bends
>around the hinge will be where it does, then you can unplug the little bit
>across the hinge and replace it easily. On my 110 it was a pain as there
>was no such break in the back door wiring (heated screen plus rear wash
>wipe, total of about 7 wires) and it meant making joints both sides. If you
>designed it in, you can be sure it won't fail :)


Good idea. Hadnt thought of that, but will think about it if i ever
wire anything into doors
>


 
Back
Top