Disco 1 Winch bumper mounting for highlift jacking

Eyup.




I've got this winch bumper, it's got high lift points on it but the way it's mounted leaves a bit to be desired. It's held on with 3x M10s each side onto the chassis legs.

It's fine for winching off but if you try to high lift jack it, it simply shifts upwards and squashes the trims etc.


What do people do to mount these so they're pleasingly brick-outhousey?

I'm thinking of welding some bushings onto the bumper, and some tubes into the chassis legs. Ideally they'd be more like dowels or shouldered bolts but I can see those being a pig to get off after a load of rain and salt over them.

Many of the 'winch' bumpers with jacking points are merely fashion ...

Weld bushes onto it, brace the chassis, use bigger nuts and bolts, 12.9 grade preferably, and make sure it doesn't move whatever the provocation. If it moves with a Jack and the weight of the front of your vehicle then at some point when winching it _WILL_ move ... probably when you're really stuck and need it most!!

Make sure the 'wings' don't fold for if you need to jack out of a rut or similar .. beef the material up ...

Half the problem is the leverage the bumper has over the mountings, it must be a 500mm moment on there, all swinging on 3 bolts no more tham 50mm apart.

I think it's the bearmach winch bumper.

It would be possible to put two fair sized gussets at the front of the chassis legs.

I did like green hornets (I think) winch mounting with a sodding great plate on the front of the chassis legs!

Hows about this then.
I'm coming to the conclusion that method of bumper mounting isn't very good, and is more for ease than strength, and even if I bush the chassis, and the bumper I will have to jig bore the bushes in place to take the play out. Simply not enough friction to stop that joint slipping and rotating around.

So proposal
Chop the inner legs off the bumper. Weld a chunky plate across it with plenty gussets and bracing. Drill 6 or so M16 holes in this.


Then looking at end of chassis. Very simplified view.



Stick some big braces at the top, and two angles across the front.


Then a plate across this. This will have the 6x M16s through the angles, plate and bumper. Should be pretty brick outhousy and gets some solid bolts loaded in tension on a much bigger area and gets the load spread across the chassis.



Need to do some better measurements and cardboard frigginabout to check this won't foul anything important but that's the bones of it.

Yup, that'd work, providing the winch you choose fits it .. Some winches, especially if they've had Bowmotors and especially Bowmnotor 2/3's added to them gain quite a bit in length over standard. Some also require off-setting to one side or the other.

What I did was use the stock bumper, but mount the winch plate (welded) to the steering guard ...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/warn-winch-repair-thread.199771/page-2#post-2154170

and

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/warn-winch-repair-thread.199771/page-2#post-2155373

Mines just the chinese cta12000 winch. It fits in the tray currently and I wouldn't be changing that space, just have to be careful I don't encroach into it in front-to-back direction
Probably shooting myself in the foot if I ever want to upgrade the winch, but cross that bridge when I come to it! Although it looks like most of the fancy winches are taller instead of bigger front to back.

Main thing as it is, it's fine to winch off as it moves and loads the bolts in shear towards the front, but if you try high lift off it... then it's going to squash all the front trims and maybe damage the headlights. Which is daft, so it needs sorting.

I'm probably making a job out of nothing if just using some M12 bolts and a longer wrench instead would be enough haha


Really nice job you've done there BTW

Or it will be the CTA12000 when I've finished getting the mud out of it.

Any other cheapo winch owners know how to get the brake assembly and hex drive shaft out of the middle of the drum?

Anyone any other thoughts before I start hacking?

If, as I suspect, the winch you have is a rip-off of the Warn (which I have) the brake assembly should just pull out. It it's stuck then it's likely been in water, in which case I'd try to remove the driveshaft and then use a long drift to hammer the brake out, or fabricate something to turn the brake in the drum to try and break the seal to the drum. If the ends of the drum insides are full of gunk and water/mud, then hammering is the most likely way, but might also cost you a new brake assembly .. I'd price a replacement up first, not necessarily buy it, but to understand what a replacement might cost!

I would be careful with the brake mechanism, as with my Warn winch it is 'clocked' so if you remove it, it won't work again, and you have to purchase a new one that comes pre-tensioned ready to slot in, at a great cost! I would love to know how to re-clock the brake correctly.

Dead easy ... on my M8000 the spring is tensioned by simply slotting each end in the holes and winding the brake shoes back over the cams .. No bother .. but as said, that might be different for a CTA ...

Well the brake spins quite freely inside (one way, locks up other way), just wanted to do a good job of removing all the rust and crap.

yeah, a bit different as its made up of multiple brake shoes that rest together.

Warn have given me a contact in the US to ring and he will try and talk me through re-clocking the brake - can send instructions due to being 'liable' in case I do something daft on the strength of their email.....got to love the blame culture, sue everyone approach.....