Who's fitted a lot of rear doors and seals? I'm missing something simple!

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Al2O3

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If you read my rebuild thread you'll know last weekend I was having trouble fitting the rear door and seal.
The steel door frame at the bottom hits the steel thresh.
DSC_0173_zpsrje4vkhc.jpg

The angle of the steel frame, seen here, hits the thresh. The rubber seal is also very tight on the door. Feels like it's putting a lot of pressure on the bottom edge of the door and it will be hard to push it to click on to the latch.
I've drilled out the standard pop rivets that I used to replace the spot welds.
I replaced both lines of pop rivets as the thresh sits on both.
DSC_0168_zpsinlftybk.jpg

I hope this is the right profile seal.
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I think it goes this way up?
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I can't set the door any higher and so my shut line along the bottom is like this. Is yours a lot wider? If I could set the door higher all would be well. :(
DSC_0177_zpscwyax6e9.jpg


All I can think to do is to cut a strip off the stainless thresh. If I cut 1 cm off the front, effectively taking the step off, it might just shut.
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I don't see why I should need to though. I don't think I've rebuilt the floor and rear cross member incorrectly. Please tell me if I have.:) ANY advice gratefully received. I know the slightest change can make a big difference. I feel as though I am missing something obvious.
 
The rubber seal is upside down. The threshold may be round the wrong way as well. I can't remember and won't be home for a week to check, but I am reasonably certain the threshold should be turned 180 degrees and fit inside the vertical flange. I would do more checking before I did more cutting
 
The rubber seal is upside down. The threshold may be round the wrong way as well. I can't remember and won't be home for a week to check, but I am reasonably certain the threshold should be turned 180 degrees and fit inside the vertical flange. I would do more checking before I did more cutting

I'm very keen to do more checking, mate. Hence this post. I won't do any cutting for now. :)

Look at this on eBay:

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=260933422374&globalID=EBAY-GB

LAND ROVER DEFENDER 90 110 REAR END DOOR LOWER SEAL AND METAL RETAINER

Cheers, greyhair. That link backs up what Landroverdiver is saying. If you look at the thresh in my picture the shoulder cut out goes around the door seem and looks correct. :confused: I thought the folded section of the thresh (with the red arrow on in my picture) was for holding the carpet down.
If the thresh goes the other way around, what are the corners cut out of it for, I wonder?
 
Your metal is in the right position, the rubber needs flipping over which then slides under the metal and you drill though the retainer holes and the flat rubber into the chassis.

Ive just replaced mine, if you want a pic let me know.
 
Absolutely tremendous. Cheers, mate.
Your shut gap at the bottom is much bigger than mine, meaning your door sits much further up! :( Mine would close if it was like that. I can't understand why more door is so low. One thought it to cut the brass balls, in the hinges, in half then put thick washers between the halves. o_O
 
Can you not loosen the hinges and try and jack it up

Spent all last weekend loosening the hinges and trying to force it as high as possible, mate. Thing is the holes in the door frame are pretty tight and the holes through the body are pretty tight and so there is very little room for adjustment.
 
Yes, that's one possible solution I may have to resort to. I say resort because I'd rather not drill through the paint job and galv capping just yet.
I've got the old door in the shed, I think I'll measure the distance from the hinge holes to frame to see if my new door is out. I'm just hoping there is a simple solution, but hope is fading! :)
 
Some pics of mine incase it helps.

Yours does seem to sit further out than mine does. Ignore the smushed up door, was like that when I got it :(

DSC_0229_zpstkkzmve3.jpg

DSC_0228_zpshl0pdgte.jpg
 
Cheers, James. Like Wonderdust's your door sits much higher than mine. I've already tried elonglating the holes with a drill. I need to buy a round file to do the job properly. Just annoying when someone that should be simple, is so far out. It's a pain not knowing the cause too.
Thanks for all the pictures lads.
 
looking at mine and yrm website/Land Rover parts book, it seems I have a different type of seal. I've an early 110 so it's like a series. And looks like this end-on. It's made of three parts, seal holder, seal and protector. Is yours similar?
 

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