Who designed the Range Rover Classic?

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P

Pacman

Guest
.....They need to be shot.

Having spent the best part of a week on and off swapping the heater matrix
(thank you Richard @ Beamends for the advice - it was a dodgy one, supplier
ordered another one, all OK), I thought I'd try and resolve the issue I have
with my fan only working on full pelt.

So having finally got the heater box back in I consulted my troubleshooting
guide...and the likely cause is the resistor pack.....which is located
inside the assembly. Great.

Looks like I'm going to have to live with a 1 speed fan setting because
there's no f'ing way I'm getting that heater assembly out again. Of course
it could be the fan switch itself, which some of it is a bit melted, but if
its not that then it has to be the resistors.

Why put the resistor pack (which I believe costs about 30 quid) which is
likely to wear out so deep inside the assembly? Imagine if I'd have had to
pay a dealer to resolve it...."£30 parts, £bazillion labour"

Bloody Land Rovers....why do I bother?

--
Thanks,
Paul


 
Pacman wrote:
> ....They need to be shot.
>
> Having spent the best part of a week on and off swapping the heater matrix
> (thank you Richard @ Beamends for the advice - it was a dodgy one, supplier
> ordered another one, all OK), I thought I'd try and resolve the issue I have
> with my fan only working on full pelt.
>
> So having finally got the heater box back in I consulted my troubleshooting
> guide...and the likely cause is the resistor pack.....which is located
> inside the assembly. Great.
>
> Looks like I'm going to have to live with a 1 speed fan setting because
> there's no f'ing way I'm getting that heater assembly out again. Of course
> it could be the fan switch itself, which some of it is a bit melted, but if
> its not that then it has to be the resistors.
>
> Why put the resistor pack (which I believe costs about 30 quid) which is
> likely to wear out so deep inside the assembly? Imagine if I'd have had to
> pay a dealer to resolve it...."£30 parts, £bazillion labour"
>
> Bloody Land Rovers....why do I bother?
>
> --
> Thanks,
> Paul
>
>
Other people will probably correct me, but it wouldn't surprise me if
the original design was easier than that, but at some point in the life
of the vehicle (25 years wasn't it?) it was all "simplified" into a
single unit.

Stuart
 
Pacman wrote:
> ....They need to be shot.
>
> Having spent the best part of a week on and off swapping the heater matrix
> (thank you Richard @ Beamends for the advice - it was a dodgy one, supplier
> ordered another one, all OK), I thought I'd try and resolve the issue I have
> with my fan only working on full pelt.
>
> So having finally got the heater box back in I consulted my troubleshooting
> guide...and the likely cause is the resistor pack.....which is located
> inside the assembly. Great.
>
> Looks like I'm going to have to live with a 1 speed fan setting because
> there's no f'ing way I'm getting that heater assembly out again. Of course
> it could be the fan switch itself, which some of it is a bit melted, but if
> its not that then it has to be the resistors.
>
> Why put the resistor pack (which I believe costs about 30 quid) which is
> likely to wear out so deep inside the assembly? Imagine if I'd have had to
> pay a dealer to resolve it...."£30 parts, £bazillion labour"
>
> Bloody Land Rovers....why do I bother?
>
> --
> Thanks,
> Paul
>
>

I don't know about the Rangerover, but other cars I've owned have the
resistor pack in the blower housing, so they can be cooled by the
airflow. My Saab 9000 was this way, but was easily removed from the
side of the blower. Does "inside the heater pack" mean in the airflow?


--
Regards, Danny

http://www.gaggia-espresso.com (a purely hobby site)
http://www.malabargold.co.uk (UK/EU ordering for Malabar Gold blend)

 

>>
>> Why put the resistor pack (which I believe costs about 30 quid) which is
>> likely to wear out so deep inside the assembly? Imagine if I'd have had to
>> pay a dealer to resolve it...."£30 parts, £bazillion labour"
>>
>> Bloody Land Rovers....why do I bother?
>
>I don't know about the Rangerover, but other cars I've owned have the
>resistor pack in the blower housing, so they can be cooled by the
>airflow. My Saab 9000 was this way, but was easily removed from the
>side of the blower. Does "inside the heater pack" mean in the airflow?

A lot cars have the resistor pack in the airflow deliberatly, as it's
a wire-wound resisitor and gets quite hot.

Alex
 
Pacman wrote:

> Why put the resistor pack (which I believe costs about 30 quid) which is
> likely to wear out so deep inside the assembly?

I wouldn't consider the resistors to be a wearing item.

Danny's comment about the location in the air flow makes sense.
 
On or around Sun, 2 Jul 2006 21:03:54 +0100, "Pacman"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>....They need to be shot.
>
>So having finally got the heater box back in I consulted my troubleshooting
>guide...and the likely cause is the resistor pack.....which is located
>inside the assembly. Great.
>
>Looks like I'm going to have to live with a 1 speed fan setting because
>there's no f'ing way I'm getting that heater assembly out again. Of course
>it could be the fan switch itself, which some of it is a bit melted, but if
>its not that then it has to be the resistors.
>
>Why put the resistor pack (which I believe costs about 30 quid) which is
>likely to wear out so deep inside the assembly? Imagine if I'd have had to
>pay a dealer to resolve it...."£30 parts, £bazillion labour"


if you can get access to the wires on the back of the switch, try connecting
them to see if the fan works. Resistor failure is prone to happen on other
things, but mostly not for 10 years or so, it's hardly a regular service
item.

But I sympathise. Getting the heater out of a disco 1 is just as bad, dash
out to get at it, took me about 4 hours start to finish.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Satisfying: Satisfy your inner child by eating ten tubes of Smarties
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.
 
> But I sympathise. Getting the heater out of a disco 1 is just as bad, dash
> out to get at it, took me about 4 hours start to finish.

Me too! Similar experience changing the matrix in my wifes Golf, I
was alerted to the rather labour intensive job by the way the guy
at G&S (GS&F now!) reacted when I asked for a heater matrix!
I think they built the car around it. Not helped by the very rusty
bolts holding it into the bulkhead (now no longer holding it onto
the bulkhead as I hack-sawed them off and glued it back on!!)

Matt
 

Matthew Maddock wrote:
> > But I sympathise. Getting the heater out of a disco 1 is just as bad, dash
> > out to get at it, took me about 4 hours start to finish.
>
> Me too! Similar experience changing the matrix in my wifes Golf, I
> was alerted to the rather labour intensive job by the way the guy
> at G&S (GS&F now!) reacted when I asked for a heater matrix!
> I think they built the car around it. Not helped by the very rusty
> bolts holding it into the bulkhead (now no longer holding it onto
> the bulkhead as I hack-sawed them off and glued it back on!!)
>
> Matt

What is it with car heaters? The matrix does fail, the speed resistors
do, and of course on the P38, so do the poxy rubber O rings. Yet to do
mine. Drip, drip, dribble, dribble. Officially another dash out job.
There must be a better way they could design a heater with servicing in
mind.

Alan C

 
On 2 Jul 2006 16:09:16 -0700, [email protected] wrote:

>What is it with car heaters? The matrix does fail, the speed resistors
>do, and of course on the P38, so do the poxy rubber O rings. Yet to do
>mine. Drip, drip, dribble, dribble. Officially another dash out job.
>There must be a better way they could design a heater with servicing in
>mind.

Im my experience of car heaters, the car is built round the heater
matrix ;)

 
I too have an RR Classic which is missing a heater blower speed.
Diagnosic work with a multimeter shows that the switch is fine, but one
of the resistors must have failed. The fact that it's buried within
the blower unit is what's discouraged me from trying to fix it. But
thanks for the (pretty obvious really) observation that placing it
there puts it in the cooling airflow -- why didn't I think of that?

My (expensive) Electrical Troubleshooting Manual turned out to be for
the 1994 model year Classics, and that suggests that for the very final
vehicles the resistor pack was positioned elsewhere (wish I'd realsied
that before I spent an hour trying to reconcile my diagnostic readings
with the wrong wiring diagram!), so it looks as though someone realised
the folly of the part price/labour charge imbalance at the eleventh
hour.

Heaters don't HAVE to be buried -- my wife's Fiat Cinquecento allowed
you to withdraw the heater matrix from under the bonnet in just 10
minutes or so, and the blower motor was easily accessible under the
parcel shelf. But I admit it WAS a much simpler car.

GRAEME ALDOUS
Yorkshire

 
Dougal wrote:
> Pacman wrote:
>
>> Why put the resistor pack (which I believe costs about 30 quid) which
>> is likely to wear out so deep inside the assembly?
>
> I wouldn't consider the resistors to be a wearing item.
>
> Danny's comment about the location in the air flow makes sense.

They don't wear in the same way as bearings or brake pads wear but being
wire wound they do "age" and if not cooled will become brittle and fail,
either open circuit or partially short circuit.

--
Regards

Steve G
 
[email protected] wrote:
> Matthew Maddock wrote:
>>> But I sympathise. Getting the heater out of a disco 1 is just as
>>> bad, dash out to get at it, took me about 4 hours start to finish.
>>
>> Me too! Similar experience changing the matrix in my wifes Golf, I
>> was alerted to the rather labour intensive job by the way the guy
>> at G&S (GS&F now!) reacted when I asked for a heater matrix!
>> I think they built the car around it. Not helped by the very rusty
>> bolts holding it into the bulkhead (now no longer holding it onto
>> the bulkhead as I hack-sawed them off and glued it back on!!)
>>
>> Matt
>
> What is it with car heaters? The matrix does fail, the speed
> resistors do, and of course on the P38, so do the poxy rubber O
> rings. Yet to do mine. Drip, drip, dribble, dribble. Officially
> another dash out job. There must be a better way they could design a
> heater with servicing in mind.
>
> Alan C

What for?

--
"He who says it cannot be done would be well advised not to interrupt
her doing it."

If the answer is offensive maybe the question was inappropriate

The fiend of my fiend is my enema!


 

>
> Im my experience of car heaters, the car is built round the heater
> matrix ;)

I though they were built around the windscreen wiper rack.

Gordon.

 
Dunno but I have met the wife of the guy who first came up with the first
LWB landie. Heaters are not the sort of thing to worry about in series
motors cos they never work anyway. It sounds as if Rangies are not much
better, its best to find a workaround I reckon.


--
Larry
Series 3 rust and holes



"Pacman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> ....They need to be shot.
>
> Having spent the best part of a week on and off swapping the heater matrix
> (thank you Richard @ Beamends for the advice - it was a dodgy one,
supplier
> ordered another one, all OK), I thought I'd try and resolve the issue I
have
> with my fan only working on full pelt.
>
> So having finally got the heater box back in I consulted my
troubleshooting
> guide...and the likely cause is the resistor pack.....which is located
> inside the assembly. Great.
>
> Looks like I'm going to have to live with a 1 speed fan setting because
> there's no f'ing way I'm getting that heater assembly out again. Of
course
> it could be the fan switch itself, which some of it is a bit melted, but
if
> its not that then it has to be the resistors.
>
> Why put the resistor pack (which I believe costs about 30 quid) which is
> likely to wear out so deep inside the assembly? Imagine if I'd have had
to
> pay a dealer to resolve it...."£30 parts, £bazillion labour"
>
> Bloody Land Rovers....why do I bother?
>
> --
> Thanks,
> Paul
>
>


 
On or around Tue, 4 Jul 2006 17:24:39 +0100, "Larry" <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>Dunno but I have met the wife of the guy who first came up with the first
>LWB landie. Heaters are not the sort of thing to worry about in series
>motors cos they never work anyway. It sounds as if Rangies are not much
>better, its best to find a workaround I reckon.

Rangie heaters are excellent, as are discos, but getting the heater unit out
to work on it is a nightmare.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"My centre is giving way, my right is in retreat; situation excellent.
I shall attack. - Marshal Foch (1851 - 1929)
 
That is what they call "swings and roundabouts" I suppose, you can either
get at the bugger or it works but you can't get at it if it screws up.

--
Larry
Series 3 rust and holes

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around Tue, 4 Jul 2006 17:24:39 +0100, "Larry"
<[email protected]>
> enlightened us thusly:
>
>
> Rangie heaters are excellent, as are discos, but getting the heater unit
out
> to work on it is a nightmare.
> --
> Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
> "My centre is giving way, my right is in retreat; situation excellent.
> I shall attack. - Marshal Foch (1851 - 1929)


 
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