Whining, not the wife, mother in law, dog......

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
supapete said:
I'll hold my hand up here. I buy my oils from ebay in 25ltr batches, anti freeze and all. Is this accepted practice or, is oil is oil perhaps not the case? T
Click to expand...

Same here from the Smith & Allan shop. As long as you change it every 5k miles it cannot matter much as long as it is the right grade.
 
wammers said:
Wheel bearing constant and changes with road speed also changes pitch when cornering. Diff pinion only constant if really bad. If just starting to wear goes away on acceleration but returns on overrun.
Click to expand...
Here we go again. Just when I think I'm done and dusted. I replaced the alternator, serpentine belt and both idlers. Thanks to you chasps I'm beginning to work things out more. I've ressurected this thread as it's the most current activity amongst the remianing bits and pieces. The noise distinctly diminshes on acceleration and inreases on overrun. Constant whilst coasting and slowing (for a few seconds only, I know you shouldn't move in neutral).Also, all is silent for the first mile from standstill. I've looked in the technical bulletin department and the pinion bearings aren't covered. Maybe I'm posting the wrong words but a search hasn't come up with a dummies guide to pinion bearing repairs.ive picked up a pictorial guide but I can't get photobucket to play as yet. There's stuff on the web in general but it feels like home to me here. In the meantime, I've made a pigs ear of replacing the heater matrix O rings and the door lock's whirring. That'll keep me away from matron for a couple of days. Hope you're all OK. regs. P.
 
Last edited:
supapete said:
Here we go again. Just when I think I'm done and dusted. I replaced the alternator, serpentine belt and both idlers. Thanks to you chasps I'm beginning to work things out more. I've ressurected this thread as it's the most current activity amongst the remianing bits and pieces. The noise distinctly diminshes on acceleration and inreases on overrun. Constant whilst coasting and slowing (for a few seconds only, I know you shouldn't move in neutral).Also, all is silent for the first mile from standstill. I've looked in the technical bulletin department and the pinion bearings aren't covered. Maybe I'm posting the wrong words but a search hasn't come up with a dummies guide to pinion bearing repairs.ive picked up a pictorial guide but I can't get photobucket to play as yet. There's stuff on the web in general but it feels like home to me here. In the meantime, I've made a pigs ear of replacing the heater matrix O rings and the door lock's whirring. That'll keep me away from matron for a couple of days. Hope you're all OK. regs. P.
Click to expand...

@jamesmartin would know about the pinion bearings. Or depending where you are there is Ashcrofts near Luton. They refurb diffs.
 
supapete said:
Here we go again. Just when I think I'm done and dusted. I replaced the alternator, serpentine belt and both idlers. Thanks to you chasps I'm beginning to work things out more. I've ressurected this thread as it's the most current activity amongst the remianing bits and pieces. The noise distinctly diminshes on acceleration and inreases on overrun. Constant whilst coasting and slowing (for a few seconds only, I know you shouldn't move in neutral).Also, all is silent for the first mile from standstill. I've looked in the technical bulletin department and the pinion bearings aren't covered. Maybe I'm posting the wrong words but a search hasn't come up with a dummies guide to pinion bearing repairs.ive picked up a pictorial guide but I can't get photobucket to play as yet. There's stuff on the web in general but it feels like home to me here. In the meantime, I've made a pigs ear of replacing the heater matrix O rings and the door lock's whirring. That'll keep me away from matron for a couple of days. Hope you're all OK. regs. P.
Click to expand...

Easy to replace if you know what you are doing. Only ever use Timken bearings, replace any shims exactly where they came from and pinion preload should be ok. You will need a DTI to set preload on carrier bearings. Nip retaining bolts up slightly, apply DTI to crown wheel, tighten adjuster until there is no backlash crown wheel to pinon. Then tighten other side until you get 7 thou backlash on crown wheel. Torque everything up a job done.
 
Thanks again Wammers and Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr. As you've probably guessed, I dont know what I'm doing. The only DTI I know of is the one matron checks my brain out with. I'd only use one once, so, a recon/rebuild/exchange might be an option, considering the cost of extra tooling used but once, seals and bearings. After the pantomime I'm enduring, a nail on option is extremely appealing. I'm not up against the clock on this for a change. If it's OK, I'll keep this thread chugging as I do more research. I gather there's 4pin and 2pin versions of this and shaft splines differ across the models. I have a 2002 v8 4ltr thor. At this early stage all input would be greatly valued, apart from "read RAVE". I've got that on my desktop and a P38 workshop manual on CD. I'm just not up to the standard needed to interpret it, follow it and execute the job. I certainly only have a basic common or garden tool set. It does include hammers (claw to lump) pinch bars (various) ,and tommy bars (hefty and long)and an impact socket (hit your hand type whilst corkscrewing around every obstacle known to man). If matron's not within earshot I've been known to utter the odd expletive. All of these and the landyzone masked men and few have got me through many tasks hitherto. Whether this will be one of them, we'll see. You'll all get your rewards in heaven. Regs. P.
 
All the rear diff will fit, the four pin one was fitted to the 4.6 to handle the extra power but quite a late models had then in to use them up the four pin just demands twice the price over the two.
 
supapete said:
Thanks again Wammers and Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr. As you've probably guessed, I dont know what I'm doing. The only DTI I know of is the one matron checks my brain out with. I'd only use one once, so, a recon/rebuild/exchange might be an option, considering the cost of extra tooling used but once, seals and bearings. After the pantomime I'm enduring, a nail on option is extremely appealing. I'm not up against the clock on this for a change. If it's OK, I'll keep this thread chugging as I do more research. I gather there's 4pin and 2pin versions of this and shaft splines differ across the models. I have a 2002 v8 4ltr thor. At this early stage all input would be greatly valued, apart from "read RAVE". I've got that on my desktop and a P38 workshop manual on CD. I'm just not up to the standard needed to interpret it, follow it and execute the job. I certainly only have a basic common or garden tool set. It does include hammers (claw to lump) pinch bars (various) ,and tommy bars (hefty and long)and an impact socket (hit your hand type whilst corkscrewing around every obstacle known to man). If matron's not within earshot I've been known to utter the odd expletive. All of these and the landyzone masked men and few have got me through many tasks hitherto. Whether this will be one of them, we'll see. You'll all get your rewards in heaven. Regs. P.
Click to expand...

Of course just fitting bearings can never be the perfect fix. Whether or not fitting bearings is worthwhile depends on the condition of other components. Fitting new crown wheels and pinions along with bearings and planet wheels takes a bit more know how. And by the time the average Joe has bought the parts retail it maybe cheaper to get an exchange diff. The odds of cocking the job up if you don't know what you are about is high.
 
I don't think it'll go bang. Just wait until the radio doesn't go any louder to drown it out. Unless you're like me and cannot handle anything that sounds wrong.
 
Thanks again to landyzone gentry the light at the end of the tunnel has been switched on again. I've followed the diagnostic advice here and a noisy pinion bearing seems favourite. I've put some fresh oil in and squirted molyslip in. I've tried to move the flange going in and it's not moveable even with mechanical assistance. The noise has abated but not disappeared. Can this simply be tolerated till next service next summer and put it down to a "noisy diff". Or should it be paid immediate respect ?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Blob
L322 (Not your usual) battery drain
Replies
7
Views
1K
Datatek
Datatek
Montyjohn
P38A EV Conversion / Hybrid conversion - Pie in the sky thinking
Replies
14
Views
2K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
W
New Bearmach Hand brake cable will not seat in the plate.
Replies
0
Views
336
Wolf Pack
W
N
Disco 3 (LR3) I am so wet. And not in a good way.
Replies
5
Views
898
gstuart
gstuart
N
A stranger here, but not.
Replies
3
Views
314
Hippo
Hippo
Back
Top