Wheel stud removal and replacement?

I have managed to forget to tighten one set of wheel nuts after changing all the wheels for a new set, then drove about 20 miles. Felt a bit odd. Now I know why.

C0ck.


C0CK.


The wheel itself seems OK - measured the diameter of the 'ole and it is the same, give or take a mm, as that on another wheel.

However, the studs are buggered. As are the wheel nuts. The wheel nuts are not a problem, obviously. The studs are.

How do I change the studs? It is a 110, 1993 - rear (nearside) on a drum brake, which looks like it could be easier than on a disc, but knowing my luck, it won't be. I have the wheel and the drum off and can see the back of the stud - just don't know how to remove it.

All help gratefully received!

Vulch

They are a good tight fit. Warm them up with a gas torch (a blow lamp wont get them hot enough) then hammer them out back through the drum. I use a small piece of scaffold tube to support the drum around the stud that way you minimise the risk of cracking the drum. You need to be a bit forceful but be careful because if you miss the stud and belt the drum with the hammer it can crack. I have use a large washer and a wheel nut to wind the new studs in. They may settle after a short while so its worth checking the wheel nuts are tight after a few miles.

It was very very easy in the end.

The studs are just pushed through the back of the hub. I got mine out by gently encouraging them with a lump hammer. And it was only gently. Hit the end of the stud and eventually it just eases out.

As it was a rear hub assembly and it had drum brakes, I just jacked up the opposite wheel and rotated the hub until the studs could pass completely out of the back of the hub.

Refitting the new ones was equally easy. Rotate the hub to get each stud in. Drop the opposite wheel to lock the hub with the diff (possibly not a good idea?). Put a big washer over a stud and tighten a reversed wheel nut onto it until the stud is pulled right through. Repeat for each stud.

All in all a 15 minute job once the drum was off.

Refit wheel. Drive a few miles and then tighten the nuts again in case the studs are still bedding in.

20 miles later do the same thing.

100 miles later have a look...

Sometimes they do come out relatively easy. Some of them need to be glowing red hot and still need a bloody good malleting to get them out. Glad its sorted.